Baller 😂 76' C10 Cheap Toy

[Mister3]

Yeah motors can be a huge time and money drain. I count my blessings we are on such good terms with our machine shop for our racing stuff he takes very good care of us.

Yeah ya saw I didn't order the CO2 kit though I'm a broke ass I will have to get that shit piece by piece.

Anyone know why they are using those bigger 2.5lb bottles vs the 10oz ones we use to use?

CO2 ain't just for shifters anymore

 

[Mark D.]

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I know I have not been updating this. No worries you guys haven't missed anything. Between work and other activities I just haven't done anything.

My RCI fuel cell turned out to be a POS and wouldn't stop leaking. I only tried about 3 times to stop it and said F it. I got a new aluminum tank and I like the design better for my use anyway. It is wider and will gravity feed my pump better. I'm having a larger outlet bung installed and then I will install it.

Finally ordered that Motion Raceworks shifter today. With measurements and some studying the Motion design worked better for the placement in my truck. Having the cylinder off the back wasn't as appealing looking to me as the Precision Shifter. But the Precision mounting wasn't going to work out with how I wanted it mounted in the truck. Got it with a little discount still $812 at my door and still need to order the CO2 kit for the tank, valve, lines etc. This stuff is so expensive these days.

Steve,I have a good used 10 oz cylinder, with everything, a valve ,regulator,gauge and mounting bracket ,was on the dragster and working when I got it.Used the 1/4 inch air line you can buy that from Summit .Switched to an on board air compressor and tank . I’d sell it If you are interested .

 

[DHR Darren]

Guys use the 2.5# CO2 bottles now because they are more consistent and you don't have to swap the bottle out near as much. I know a lot of guys actually put nitrous in them

 

[Anthony67]

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Anyone know why they are using those bigger 2.5lb bottles vs the 10oz ones we use to use?

less fills 2.5 can last all season+ people usually run chutes and gates etc.

just a shifter 10oz is fine Id check or top it off before every race, find out and let me know

 

[SteveTX]

Steve,I have a good used 10 oz cylinder, with everything, a valve ,regulator,gauge and mounting bracket ,was on the dragster and working when I got it.Used the 1/4 inch air line you can buy that from Summit .Switched to an on board air compressor and tank . I’d sell it If you are interested .

Hey message me a price and we might work something out.

Guys use the 2.5# CO2 bottles now because they are more consistent and you don't have to swap the bottle out near as much. I know a lot of guys actually put nitrous in them

They put nitrous in for the shifter? Is there a benefit to that?

less fills 2.5 can last all season+ people usually run chutes and gates etc.

just a shifter 10oz is fine Id check or top it off before every race, find out and let me know

Ahh chutes and gates I see. Guess my mind wasn't thinking or it was set on poor boy mode where air launchers and so on were never a thought.

Just got this email from Motion Raceworks today.

First and foremost, thank you for ordering from Motion Raceworks. I just wanted to reach out about your most recent order. Unfortunately, I am out of stock of the shifter that you ordered. We are looking at getting the parts back from anodizing on Wednesday. Once I have them back the team will build your shifter, and once they are done your order will ship out. Sorry for any inconvenience that this may have caused, and again thank you for purchasing from Motion Raceworks.

This was before reading your replies here. So I had sent them a reply asking about the 2.5lb vs the 10oz bottle. I'll post whatever they reply back.

 

[SteveTX]

Motion Raceworks reply was almost identical to what you guys said. Here is what they said.

The reason for the larger CO2 bottle is pretty simple, it gives added capacity to allow for more passes between switching the bottles out. Many customers report that they are able to go an entire season on one 2.5 pound bottle using it for their boost control, shifter assist, and parachute deployments. That being said, you can absolutely use the smaller bottles if you have them on hand already, there are several racers that are using the 10 ounce bottles for weight considerations.

 

[SteveTX]

Hey fellas I have a friend who will fill my bottle for me but I need a fitting that so far I haven't found. Its the bottle pictured above on post #422 I bought from @Mark D. . My friend said he has filled these 10oz bottles before but the customer had a fitting he could attach to the bottle making it a -4 or -6 AN size so he can attach his filling station.

Does anyone know what the hell I'm trying to explain or where I can purchase a fitting that will do this or get me to a NPT style fitting? I can figure out a adaptor if I get it to NPT as well. I am a dummy on anything not AN or NPT pretty much. From what I have read I think the bottle has a CGA-320 size thread on it, whatever that is, but I am not positive of that.

 

[Anthony67]

Paint ball site should have the fittings or air an riffle site. I have adapters to nitrogen regulators many places stopped selling just adapters and only sell them in kits

Check Amazon, may have some fittings too

 

[SteveTX]

It lives. Might have more video coming later but it sounds promising. The blower actually seems to work and the carb I had built for it seems to be pretty close out of the box. Still a lot of small stuff to do but I have a little motivation I can listen to.

 

[Raidmagic]

Sounds great! Congratulations.

 

[Mark D.]

Sounds good Steve.

 

[Patriot Racer]

Nice, but I think we need a walk around video.

 

[SteveTX]

Nice, but I think we need a walk around video.

Yeah got to be careful about that. Probably get thrown off the forums, reported numerous times, or more cans of oven cleaner and spray paint sent my way for not having high enough standards.

Im working on cleaning it up and trying to make it not such a eyesore. Maybe get some video or pictures up in the near future.

 

[Patriot Racer]

Yeah got to be careful about that. Probably get thrown off the forums, reported numerous times, or more cans of oven cleaner and spray paint sent my way for not having high enough standards.

Im working on cleaning it up and trying to make it not such an eyesore. Maybe get some video or pictures up in the near future.

Fuck that, who cares? My car looks like shit on the outside. It’s the build and the progression.

 

[DHR Darren]

Congratulations dude, it's been a long time coming and you have to be stoked!

 

[Anthony67]

Best feeling ever

 

[Raidmagic]

Yeah got to be careful about that. Probably get thrown off the forums, reported numerous times, or more cans of oven cleaner and spray paint sent my way for not having high enough standards.

Im working on cleaning it up and trying to make it not such a eyesore. Maybe get some video or pictures up in the near future.

Clearly you didn't see any of my progress pics or videos. Not that it's a lot cleaner now but it was a mess then

 

[SteveTX]

I've been trying to figure this BOV out. This thing should be whistling, whooshing, or making some sort of air passing it noise but its not.

So the other day I slowly disassembled it and checked for a busted diaphragm. There was absolutely nothing wrong visually as far as a untrained eye goes. So I lightly oiled the places, I read online that a light oil should be used, and reassembled it adjusting the threaded shaft and locknut to 2 to 2 1/2 threads exposed per Bob from Brute speed. Same damn thing. It might have faintly made a sound like a ProCharger at idle but no where near what every ProCharged motor I've heard sounded like.

Today I am thinking I will try again and so I hooked up a manual boost gauge. Figured that thing must be pouring it to the engine as nothing seems to be coming out of the BOV. Well the gauge said I am getting no boost. Now I am scratching my head. How is it the BOV is not opening and I still have no boost when I know this damn blower just turned by hand will blow your hair back. At 1200 rpm it has to be moving some air. And it does when you take the intake tube off its blowing like a tornado.

Now I am getting irritated. Everything in the BOV looks and feels smooth and no damage but I have the new BOV rebuild kit on the kitchen table. I have disassembled the thing again. I started to think maybe someone as uninformed as me assembled it before I got it. Now I am hunting the internet for a freaking diagram of this exact valve to see if the diaphragm is in upside down possibly? Or any other parts may be in the incorrect order.

I did email ProCharger and Bob at brutespeed.com hopefully one has a diagram.

 

[Anthony67]

You put a rag over it and nothing happens idling or reving the engine?

A race bov will move more air than a standard bov reducing the noise

My f2 and 121 makes zero whoosh its spun 65k rpm+ with an rps 104mm bov

 

[SteveTX]

You put a rag over it and nothing happens idling or reving the engine?

A race bov will move more air than a standard bov reducing the noise

My f2 and 121 makes zero whoosh its spun 65k rpm+ with an rps 104mm bov

I put my hand over it and felt nothing. I looked at the plunger or whatever its called that opens and it looks like its staying shut. Just doesn't seem right. I will reassemble this valve by the book and see what happens.