Baller 😂 76' C10 Cheap Toy

Looks like the only thing it could be is the vacuum is not sufficient enough to keep the valve closed.

Is it possible that o-ring fell out?
Is it possible to move the vacuum port to the intake as mentioned?
 
Mister3 said:
Maybe change the vac/boost reference point to the intake manifold somewhere. I'd also have any vac/boost referenced item run off the same line... map sensor, bov, fuel pressure regulator
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The vac live is all by itself on the 2" spacer under the carb. There is nothing else on that particular vac line besides the bov. I have a separate vac port on the back of the same 2" carb spacer that is for my boost gauge/data logging. Any vac there is going to be the same if I move it down a few inches wont it? Its all in the intake below the throttle blades. :shrug: Guess I could drill a new hole and make another port.
The fuel pressure regulator gets it signal from above the throttle blades mine is at the back of the hat. From what I read at ProCharger this is the correct placement.
 
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Patriot Racer said:
Looks like the only thing it could be is the vacuum is not sufficient enough to keep the valve closed.

Is it possible that o-ring fell out?
Is it possible to move the vacuum port to the intake as mentioned?
Click to expand...
:unsure: little or no vacuum... I'll get the gauge hooked up and see if its making any like @Anthony67 suggested. I figured the engine was running and its really not a huge radical cam it should be making some I thought. :shrug:

The O-Ring is new and it is still in there. I thought the same thing for a minute but when the bov is closed at idle absolutely nothing is leaking out. I laid a rag over the bov including the welded on mount and it doesn't even flutter.

See my last post on making a new port. I just don't see how moving it a few inches in the same manifold would change the vac. Guess it could but I don't understand it as its all in the intake.
 
SteveTX said:
:unsure: little or no vacuum... I'll get the gauge hooked up and see if its making any like @Anthony67 suggested. I figured the engine was running and its really not a huge radical cam it should be making some I thought. :shrug:

The O-Ring is new and it is still in there. I thought the same thing for a minute but when the bov is closed at idle absolutely nothing is leaking out. I laid a rag over the bov including the welded on mount and it doesn't even flutter.

See my last post on making a new port. I just don't see how moving it a few inches in the same manifold would change the vac. Guess it could but I don't understand it as its all in the intake.
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Yeah, if you don’t already have another port I wouldn’t drill for one. Just throwing darts since you haven’t hooked a vacuum gauge up yet.
 
SteveTX said:
The vac live is all by itself on the 2" spacer under the carb. There is nothing else on that particular vac line besides the bov. I have a separate vac port on the back if the same 2" carb spacer that is for my boost gauge/data logging. Any vac there is going to be the same if I move it down a few inches wont it? Its all in the intake below the throttle blades. :shrug: Guess I could drill a new hole and make another port.
The fuel pressure regulator gets it signal from above the throttle blades mine is at the back of the hat. From what I read at ProCharger this is the correct placement.
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Moving the vac port won't change anything. Maybe with a carb you plumb fpr vac that way, if ProCharger says that's where to do it they know best.
 
Raidmagic said:
Id hook a vacuum gauge to where you are hooking the bov and confirm vacuum
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I'm definitely going to try to get this done very soon. I had to work all day and will be tomorrow as well so maybe Monday I can do a little testing. Also @Anthony67 was gracious enough to offer me another bov to try so we are working on that option as well. Hopefully it does something different.

I did also get a email back from Bob at Brute Speed. He wants me to vac test the bov. So I will be trying that as well Monday possibly.
 
Patriot Racer said:
Any updates? Vacuum readings?
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Sorry got called to work this morning. Just got back and jumped right on it. We have found the problem. I just for the life of me I cannot understand what is wrong with my bov just yet but I will.

These bov are according to ProCharger and Bob at Brute Speed suppose to hold vacuum. If you watch this short video you can clearly see mine does not and that is with the new rebuild kit installed. I think I might know what it is but I am going to investigate it a little more before I say.


This video below is strait out of the intake
 
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Now that I am 100% confident I know the bov is not working I feel better. This has been a small lesson but a good one for me. I bought that bov second hand and didn't think much of it. I mean geez just what could possibly be that crazy in there. I have since learned more than I ever would had I bought a new one.

Now that I know it was a leak in the valve mechanism I started putting things together in my head. When I was rebuilding it I noticed there is a brass or bronze bushing in the center that the piston travels through and I thought to myself for a machined piece it seemed a little loose. (Its in the center of the solid black round piece of fig 1.) Sort of like when you check valve guides in a head. Me being a dummy about a bov I assumed there was no way that little stem would have worn that hole that much. I had no specs to go by so I cleaned it and moved on to putting it back together with what came in the rebuild kit. After the fact as anyone following knows it still did not change anything. And the whole time rebuilding it I was thinking I found nothing wrong and had zero thoughts of it now working. Sure enough it still doesn't work.

Anyway after doing the vacuum test and talking with Bob about the bronze bushing he then said, "It could be the valve stem bushing, you've done everything else. If it's worn, it could be bleeding off boost." This is where I am at. I really think this could fix it but it irks me I already paid $15 shipping on a box the size and weight of those a men's wallet would come in for a "rebuild bag". And now I will have to pay $15 and wait again to get a $24 single little bushing. Just being honest here its not that I cant pay $15. What I don't understand is why wasn't the bushing in the rebuild kit to start with. Just seems to me a rebuild kit or bag should have any wear parts included. Maybe they don't wear out often. And even after all that there is no guarantee it will work. 🤦‍♂️

Thankfully @Anthony67 has been very extremely gracious to help with one of his spare bov. He is definitely a great guy like so many on here. If I ever get a paint job on this truck Ill have the tailgate filled with everyone's name that contributed. I might need a bigger tailgate. :lmao:

For anyone messing with these ProCharger Race Bypass Valve (Open), also known as the Big Red valve, here are some pictures I was sent to help with assembly. I also included what you should order the first time if you have a old valve or one that has a lot of use on it.

Race Valve Rebuild Bag https://shop.brutespeed.com/ati-av002a-001-race-valve-rebuild-bag-ati-av002a-001
Valve Stem Bushing - For The Race Valve https://shop.brutespeed.com/ati-av002i-004-valve-stem-bushing---race-valve
Fig 1
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Fig 2
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Fig 3
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Patriot Racer said:
Fixed yet?
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Nope :sorry:

@Anthony67 had been working away from his shop. He said he was going to try and ship it yesterday. :smile:
I've been digging holes and haven’t done much really. :idea: I did work on fixing the brakes. I twisted off the driver side front caliper bleeder. :sad2:So I then proceeded to make it worse and twisted off a inexpensive extractor in there. :angry: I got a new caliper and tried getting some brake pedal. And did get the rear brakes working great. I need to get new front brake lines though. I suspect they are collapsed inside. I was looking at the stainless ones but I could just go get new rubber ones for now and get brakes on it. :ponda:

Oh I also finally got to play with the shifter. :cool1: I have all the CO2 hooked up and working now with no leaks. Seems everything I do has to have confounded issues. I couldn't get the bottle filled till I ordered some stuff to make it where a -4 or -6AN line could connect. Well I probably could somewhere, but out nitrous supplier is hooking me up so I needed it where he could attach his equipment. Then I get it filled and the air line connector on the bottle regulator is leaking. Luckily I had bought a bag of them and had the right size. That in itself was a miracle. :larf: But it now works slick as can be. Well the CO2 part. :thumbup: Once I get the BOV situation addressed I can make sure I have the Biondo Rpm Switch all wired up properly.

Since I mentioned listing the names of those who assisted with this on my tailgate I got to thinking. So many have helped in so many ways. Just wanted to say thanks again to all of you why have helped. It really is appreciated. Thanks Phantombullet Crew :usa:

Quick walk around. Still a mess but its mine :cool:
 
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SteveTX said:
Nope :sorry:

@Anthony67 had been working away from his shop. He said he was going to try and ship it yesterday. :smile:
I've been digging holes and haven’t done much really. :idea: I did work on fixing the brakes. I twisted off the driver side front caliper bleeder. :sad2:So I then proceeded to make it worse and twisted off a inexpensive extractor in there. :angry: I got a new caliper and tried getting some brake pedal. And did get the rear brakes working great. I need to get new front brake lines though. I suspect they are collapsed inside. I was looking at the stainless ones but I could just go get new rubber ones for now and get brakes on it. :ponda:

Oh I also finally got to play with the shifter. :cool1: I have all the CO2 hooked up and working now with no leaks. Seems everything I do has to have confounded issues. I couldn't get the bottle filled till I ordered some stuff to make it where a -4 or -6AN line could connect. Well I probably could somewhere, but out nitrous supplier is hooking me up so I needed it where he could attach his equipment. Then I get it filled and the air line connector on the bottle regulator is leaking. Luckily I had bought a bag of them and had the right size. That in itself was a miracle. :larf: But it now works slick as can be. Well the CO2 part. :thumbup: Once I get the BOV situation addressed I can make sure I have the Biondo Rpm Switch all wired up properly.

Since I mentioned listing the names of those who assisted with this on my tailgate I got to thinking. So many have helped in so many ways. Just wanted to say thanks again to all of you why have helped. It really is appreciated. Thanks Phantombullet Crew :usa:

Quick walk around. Still a mess but its mine :cool:
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I think it’s badass man. I can’t wait to see some video of you making hits.
 
Patriot Racer said:
I think it’s badass man. I can’t wait to see some video of you making hits.
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It is for me. :cool: My one last hoorah! :ROFLMAO:

Its nothing to most but I'm no baller or heavy hitter never claimed to be. This is to impress me and anyone else who gets a kick out of it.
 
I watched your video here on the site.
Then I went to YouTube for something else and watched again. It said I was first to 👍!
You are on your way to a content creator. The checks will be rolling in!

Curious though, with the back bars so low in the bed, will it certify to 8.50?
 
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