Baller 😂 76' C10 Cheap Toy

Looking at parachutes. So feel free to share any parachute info you guys have.

According to Stroud's sizing chart I could be borderline between 420 and 430 size. Does anyone know the actual difference in size these are? I tried searching for the actual sizes but cant seem to find any numbers. I don't feel I will be running near the speeds of 150+. Also I don't have a actual number on the weight of my truck. From my understanding factory my truck weighed 3682lbs. But I think I could be, and hope to be closer to 3300lbs. I really don't want some massive parachute to deal with. So hopefully I can cheat down a size possibly.


ChuteSizingChart__42342.1668278751.jpg
 
Raidmagic said:
A parachute is like a mind. It only works when open.


That's all I know about parachutes.
Click to expand...
I appreciate you sharing that. I don't know much myself here this is what I know. I have said in the past about guns and parachutes its better to have one and not need it than to need one and not have it. :larf: And this is one driving reason I am looking into getting one.

I really not sure I would need it at all or even on a regular basis as a friend of mine doesn't pull his to slow down and he is in the low 5s with his truck. I do see their benefit in other cases as well though including slowing down. But most folks say my truck needs one and I cant come up with a logical reason not to. Arguing that id rather spend the money elsewhere isn't a good argument. So here I am thinking about a parachute. :shrug:
 
Last edited:
SteveTX said:
I appreciate you sharing that. I don't know much myself here this is what I know. I have said in the past about guns and parachutes its better to have one and not need it than to need one and not have it. :larf: And this is one driving reason I am looking into getting one.

I really not sure I would need it at all or even on a regular basis as a friend of mine doesn't pull his to slow down and he is in the low 5s with his truck. I do see their benefit in other cases as well though including slowing down. But most folks say my truck needs one and I cant come up with a logical reason to not to. Arguing that id rather spend the money elsewhere isn't a good argument. So here I am thinking about a parachute. :shrug:
Click to expand...
While i know fuck all about chutes you're definitely making the argument for the smaller chute. I don't know if it's even a bad thing to have a larger chute.... more drag = better slowing or is it more drag = might upset the apple cart?

I do know (yet don't) aspects to chute mounting which can also cause a bad day so once you get the size right you'll need to get the mounting right for proper deployment.

*edit


Read the vid description and pretty sure some good info in the comments.
 
Mister3 said:
While i know fuck all about chutes you're definitely making the argument for the smaller chute. I don't know if it's even a bad thing to have a larger chute.... more drag = better slowing or is it more drag = might upset the apple cart?

I do know (yet don't) aspects to chute mounting which can also cause a bad day so once you get the size right you'll need to get the mounting right for proper deployment.

*edit


Read the vid description and pretty sure some good info in the comments.
Click to expand...
Wow first thing I heard was wind and I was like that wont be good. I've seen drag cars chutes jerk the car sideways in heavy crosswinds. Seems there is a lot of chatter about the brakes. When applied and the bias setting of them. I'll sure keep that in mind.

I read a couple of articles on the topic. Apparently there is some science to it all.
motionraceworks.com

Parachutes 101: Your Guide to Racecar Parachutes

Parachutes on a drag racing car can be a daunting and confusing topic for a first timer. Size of parachute, which style, deployment method, which brand, accessories such as release handle, cable and more all seem to have a lot of options that can be overwhelming. This Blog is intended to answer...
motionraceworks.com motionraceworks.com
 
Always have your chute anchor directly in line with your frame rails. That way when it deploys it won't lift the car like it would if it was attached lower.
 
Well I just ordered a Stroud 430 Parachute. Motion Raceworks sale got me. The damn thing was over $600 at Summit. I checked before ordering and they claim these are the new versions with more durable material for just under $500. I grabbed one of those Motion Raceworks Parachute Cable Holder brackets to hold the end of my cable also. Figured it was free shipping the bracket was on sale also. 🤦🏻‍♂️
 
Just right, that was always my complaint with their parachutes was the material didn't hold up real well and you'll like that little cable retainer, so simple yet they work real well
 
I called Strange Engineering today to order my steel driveshaft. Well seems my driveshaft is a fraction longer than they make them currently at Strange. Not really sure if they were out of the material needed or if they just don't make them that long. I think he said they were out of the 3.5" material and then said they don't make anything over 60". I wasn't sure exactly what he said, our connection wasn't that good. My driveshaft will roughly be 60.75" long. I have to get my new yolk installed on the third member to get it exact. Also it has to be able to support roughly 1600hp at around 7500rpm. I'm not planning to go to that max but I want the drive shaft built to do it if I change my mind. The guy at Strange said a 3" shaft that long is into that critical speed area I don't want to be in anyway.

Anyway he recommended Precision Shaft Technologies in Florida. He said they worked with them and used Strange parts (Yolks). He also thought they would possibly recommend a 4" Aluminum shaft but said to check with them. Im not fond of the aluminum but I am not the expert. I tried to call them and found out they have those odd Friday hours and close at 1:00pm on Fridays so I have to wait till Monday.

Went to a fab shop this morning and am having a door made where the heater core and blower normally are on the passenger firewall. It will open from the top with a Dzus or two and a piano hinge along the bottom. On the inside of the door will be my 7AL Box, 2 step, Relay for my wiring etc. Anyway I am having standoffs tig welded on the inside so I can put my panel on it keeping the engine side of the firewall clean with no screws and such sticking out. It also keeps the inside of the truck clean of a bunch of wiring and electronics in view but with the hood off very easy to access. So I can change chips if necessary but probably not at the last minute in the lanes. I'm fine with that anyway to keep the interior looking decent.

I did get my valve covers back today. I had to have the old ProCharger notch put into them so I could pull them without removing the ProCharger. Its the small cutout on the end on the left. I had him make them match so both cover got the notch. It just so happens that same corner on the passenger side was real close to the firewall so I gained a little room by doing it this way.
modified-valve-covers.jpg

Slowly but surely I am making a little progress.
 
SteveTX said:
Chute and a small bracket came in today. Been to busy working to touch the truck though.
IMG_6123.jpeg

The mount for the pack and the anchor mount kit are somewhere headed to me I hope. 😂
Click to expand...
That's the same bracket I got, it's a nice piece
 
Mounted the Motion Raceworks breathers after work. One of them kicked my ass. For some reason the screws kept wanting to cross thread. Anyway tiny progress there.
hftyFjn.jpeg
84VNh9o.jpeg

The Chassis Engineering parachute mount and my Strange Engineering pinion yolk both came in today.
QcQ7K34.jpeg

PCDM4Z2.jpeg
 
Post up some photos of the breather install. I've got a vacuum pump on mine but everybody says I don't need a vacuum pump I just need breathers. But I'm not going to run some fucking puke tank shit in the rear.
 
DHR Darren said:
Post up some photos of the breather install. I've got a vacuum pump on mine but everybody says I don't need a vacuum pump I just need breathers. But I'm not going to run some fucking puke tank shit in the rear.
Click to expand...
Where the hoses go in the firewall is just the cowling area. I just have a 90 degree bulkhead on the passenger side and a T shaped bulkhead on the driver side. The vent hose connects them together in the cowl from each bulkhead. Then off the other side of the T on drivers side it continues down to a factory hole in the firewall and comes out beside the master cylinder. Its where the original wiper motor was. I have a Moroso catch can mounted to the wall there and a 150 degree -12 end on the hose feeding the can. So all you see is the can and the end of that 150 degree fitting screwed to it. Everything else is in the cowling besides the can itself.
Ill try and get a picture its nothing fancy but I like its fairly hidden.
I passed up a deal on a vacuum pump because Ive seen so many blown cars and 99 out of a 100 don’t have a vacuum pump. Pretty much made my decision for me when I looked at my wallet I knew I didn’t need it. 😂
 
Last edited:
DHR Darren said:
Post up some photos of the breather install. I've got a vacuum pump on mine but everybody says I don't need a vacuum pump I just need breathers. But I'm not going to run some fucking puke tank shit in the rear.
Click to expand...


good ring seal and pw clearance at 38lbs I had 2lbs valley pressure, and minimal oil was pushed. You wont need a puke tank just a catch can. yeah if you nuke it it can push all the oil out yada yada

had to freshen the motor and pw clearance bit excesive, gotta coat clearance the pistons. At 44lbs it sees 5lbs valley pressure she moves oil😀 prob 1/2 qrt each catch can every pass, if I dont drain em shed puke oil out the catch can breather, all tune up related and how pissed the rings are
 
SteveTX said:
Where the hoses go in the firewall is just the cowling area. I just have a 90 degree bulkhead on the passenger side and a T shaped bulkhead on the driver side. The vent hose connects them together in the cowl from each bulkhead. Then off the other side of the T on drivers side it continues down to a factory hole in the firewall and comes out bedside the master cylinder. Its where the original wiper motor was. I have a Moroso catch can mounted to the wall there and a 150 degree -12 end on the hose feeding the can. So all you see is the can and the end of that 150 degree fitting screwed to it. Everything else is in the cowling besides the can itself.
Ill try and get a picture its nothing fancy but I like its fairly hidden.
I passed up a deal on a vacuum pump because Ive seen so many blown cars and 99 out of a 100 don’t have a vacuum pump. Pretty much made my decision for me when I looked at my wallet I knew I didn’t need it. 😂
Click to expand...

No need for a vacuum pump no power gain for the $$$, Make sure the tank cant puke out onto headers and dump oil on the rear tires

mine are in shitty spot ive learned running with higher valley pressure. Its misted the headers and frame rail. if I nuked it, definitely possible to oil the rear tires, the 2qt catch can on each bank wont be holding the 10qts in the motor

Streeter/ racecars wont be pushing their shit or sending em down hurt so the odds of nuking it are or should be nill 😀
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top