Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Setting valves on this turned out to be a festival but we fingered it out. Every video i watched showed EOIC method. After talking to a builder smarter than the average redneck he gave us this bit of advice

Put cylinder 1 on top dead center, set both valves at zero lash plus half turn.

Turn the crank 90 degrees, following firing order set the next set of valves.

Once that was done... Set the timing mark at 16 degrees before TDC

Drop distributor in with rotor pointing at number one spark plug.

Floats were full, so without fuel pump on, i pushed the go button and she lit up.

That mac exhaust sounds killer.

And that throttle has instant response. This thing will have some serious low end grunt to it. Im guessing the dual plane intake, 650 carb, 185cc heads, and the cam with an rpm range of 2200-6200 will be a fun little street car
It's gotta feel so good to have it running.
 
You guys did good. Where is the video ? So, when will it move under its own power ?
 
What is left to finish it?

I really need to cut that oil filter open and see if it sparkles. If it looks like a strippers chest we're in trouble.

Wiring needs to be cleaned up, but i still have issues im assuming with grounds. I custom built my dash with led indicators, and i have LED lights over my switch panel so i know when relays are actually engaged. What im seeing is some of those led's flicker a bit when other circuits are activated. My afr gauge in the driver side header kept sweeping and never settled in (though instructions said that's the warm up procedure). Im wondering if its broken or wired incorrectly because the other one was working.

My fuel pressure gauge isnt showing proper pressures, but I'm using an isolator, so i believe i need to refill the isolator as i may have spilled too much coolant when trying to install it

I need to mount the fuel cell and plumb it completely, find some metal to close up the hatch area, build battery box and bulkhead, finish the rear wiring harness so i have brake lights and stuff. I need to measure and order a driveshaft, install it, brake fluid and bleed. Put the interior back together.

I think that's pretty close to all of it.
 
Wiring needs to be cleaned up, but i still have issues im assuming with grounds. I custom built my dash with led indicators, and i have LED lights over my switch panel so i know when relays are actually engaged. What im seeing is some of those led's flicker a bit when other circuits are activated.

This exact same thing was happening to me and I think it had something to do with sharing grounds. The Ron Francis relays use ground as a trigger instead of power. If my memory serves me correctly, I had to separate grounds that I had daisy chained between switches or something. I think that was backfeeding the indicator lights on my switch panel. I’m not even sure if that makes sense. I was having trouble, so I called a buddy that does electrical and he fixed it.
 
Hey Fox, I got my driveshaft from Shaftmasters. They have great turn around time and prices. Get 1350 joints

I bought the entire transmission swap kit from American powertrain back in 2021. It comes with the driveshaft, yokes, u joints, all balanced together. So when im ready to order, it's free!
 
Also a little Ford thing to note, anything over 65lbs of oil pressure is very bad. Sounds counter intuitive, but its true.

The original builder may have put a high volume pump in it, not sure.. but i was hovering around 62 on cold start with comp cams 10w30 break in oil. Once it had a little heat in it it was around 55
 
Also a little Ford thing to note, anything over 65lbs of oil pressure is very bad. Sounds counter intuitive, but its true.

The original builder may have put a high volume pump in it, not sure.. but i was hovering around 62 on cold start with comp cams 10w30 break in oil. Once it had a little heat in it it was around 55
YEA, IT'S BAD WHEN YOU HAVE MORE OIL PRESSURE THEN HORSEPOWER.... :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:
 
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