Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Think I found it. Mother fucker.

Set base at 16 degrees
Plugged vacuum advance
Removed the crankcase vent from back of carb.

Issue was 99% gone

Turned idle up to 850/900
Hooked up vacuum advance to timed vac
18" vac at cruise

Same, 99% solved.

I have not increased timing yet, but that extra air coming in unrestricted from the crank case into a catch can then to the carb likely dumping extra air into it at cruise.

May hook vac advance to manifold again, but I think the 9" vac At idle is causing my canister to do weird shit and hanging idle up high sometimes when I get off throttle. More testing, but the "oh fuck I'm ruining my engine" feeling has subsided a bit.
 
May be too late now, but can you using the scope and a swap with some grease on it, swap out the shit you see and take a good look at it, to see what it is?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Think I found it. Mother fucker.

Set base at 16 degrees
Plugged vacuum advance
Removed the crankcase vent from back of carb.

Issue was 99% gone

Turned idle up to 850/900
Hooked up vacuum advance to timed vac
18" vac at cruise

Same, 99% solved.

I have not increased timing yet, but that extra air coming in unrestricted from the crank case into a catch can then to the carb likely dumping extra air into it at cruise.

May hook vac advance to manifold again, but I think the 9" vac At idle is causing my canister to do weird shit and hanging idle up high sometimes when I get off throttle. More testing, but the "oh fuck I'm ruining my engine" feeling has subsided a bit.
Click to expand...
Is that where oil on plugs and piston is coming from ?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Well of course I looked into it and most of the internet said the same as you so i bought a $25 timing light.. though it showed the same as the other I still think it was worth the test
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Did you research why what most of the internet says is now wrong based on your findings?

Did technology overcome what most of the internet knows to be true based on experiences?

I ain’t gonna look it up cuz I have both lights but I think you should know this kinda stuff going forward.
 
WillisonTfosdik said:
Did you research why what most of the internet says is now wrong based on your findings?

Did technology overcome what most of the internet knows to be true based on experiences?

I ain’t gonna look it up cuz I have both lights but I think you should know this kinda stuff going forward.
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Right on innova website it says not compatible. Some of the internet says clip it as close to spark plug as possible and it seems to work.

My findings were that it wouldn't flash when trying to start the car, but once idling it would work okay. Some days it wouldn't flash at all though no matter what buttons I pushed and just thought I dropped it too many times.
 
My phucking Sears light has been RUN OVER a couple of times, she is still working!

I never had a lot of faith in the dial-back lights, but I trusted them within a few degrees. At least you could see things working as intended.

I don't like the self-powered lights, never seem bright enough at the track. Simple hookup though.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
This discussion has been had by people smarter than me.

Everyone has the "I've done this with zero issues for 30 years".

Half say it's broken in at idle. Half say it isn't. I'm done having the discussion because it seems no one fucking knows.

I don't know wtf is in there, but i know I don't have gas ported rings.
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Right or wrong I’ll tell you what my builder recommended to me on my last three builds . 6 heat cycles, change the oil and filter and run it balls to the wall full passes. That’s exactly what I do and have never regretted it.
 
Mark D. said:
Right or wrong I’ll tell you what my builder recommended to me on my last three builds . 6 heat cycles, change the oil and filter and run it balls to the wall full passes. That’s exactly what I do and have never regretted it.
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6 high idle heat cycles?
 
Steve439 said:
Was that internet advice?
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So long ago I'm not sure. Probably something I misunderstood on YB.

I had a filter on each side on the last engine and a rear main seal leak. I was told to use a vacuum source in one side to get some sucky sucky, but not header evac because mid pipe and mufflers would be fire hazard.

I thought a brilliant idea was to add a catch can for contaminant sake and run to the carb.

No one mentioned sucky sucky required finesse
 
Alas I bought some resistors to figure out what ohm fuel gauge I have.

16-158ohm

But my sender is 0-90 because RCI didn't care to mention that they don't care what I request, every cell gets 0-90 sending unit.

They don't sell that gauge anymore, which explains my massive confusion up to now
 
89 Fox 427 said:
So long ago I'm not sure. Probably something I misunderstood on YB.

I had a filter on each side on the last engine and a rear main seal leak. I was told to use a vacuum source in one side to get some sucky sucky, but not header evac because mid pipe and mufflers would be fire hazard.

I thought a brilliant idea was to add a catch can for contaminant sake and run to the carb.

No one mentioned sucky sucky required finesse
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You want to find a PCV that will work for your setup.
You can buy an adjustable one from these people:


Or ask SBF guys which stock ones work well on hi-perf engines.

Wait, what am I thinking?

I bet @itey can tell you which one to use.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Alas I bought some resistors to figure out what ohm fuel gauge I have.

16-158ohm

But my sender is 0-90 because RCI didn't care to mention that they don't care what I request, every cell gets 0-90 sending unit.

They don't sell that gauge anymore, which explains my massive confusion up to now
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0 - 90 is GM, I don't know who else uses that range..........

Look for an electric vacuum pump that GM used on MANY of their vehicles, you can buy them on Rockauto or find them in the boneyard. Not sure how much they can pull, but maybe worth trying.

Lemme find some applications for ya. I'll be back.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
No one wants to get into an internet conversation around here, and that's fine, but people do shit differently.

When building my engine I posted publicly, and privately, asking how to break the engine in and get rings to seat.

"They seat immediately"
"You'll wash the cylinders"
"Full throttle pulls and decel in gear within first 50 miles"

Anyone else want to throw their hat in the ring?? Because I'm getting tired of no one saying a fucking thing until something goes wrong then its a festival of "oh I wouldn't have done that" experts
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You asked "anyone else want to throw their hat into the ring " so here is my hat and what works for me......
Old school BBC drag car:
A few minutes run time in the garage setting timing and such . Then a trip down the return road and back . Then stage the car for first time trial and make a full pass . That was at least 500 passes ago and every cylinder still only has between 7 and 8% leakage . Thats how I have done it with every new build and freshen up . Years ago one of my new drag engine builds was a flat tappet cam so I would do the 1/2 hour cam break in then take it to the track and do what I mentioned above.
Old school SBC street car:
After 1/2 hour run time in the garage at 2500-3000 to break in flat tappet cam . Then over a period of a few days I would drive it a total of about 50 or 60 miles varying the RPM range , no steady RPM like highway driving. That is how I have done it for a few street engines.
Never had any of the fancy A/F gauges or anything like that , gave the engine what it wanted and or needed for its intended use .
In my opinion , with my type of old school builds , and with my limited knowledge ....
No engine is going to have perfect A/F at every rpm and in every weather condition (unless computer controlled like a modern car), can't set the timing for the street and have it be perfect for the track , cant set advance for the street and expect it to be perfect at the track . You have to find a happy medium in a street/strip car unless you want to carry a toolbox in your trunk . I guess you / someone can have perfect "settings" without a tool box in their trunk if they have the ability to plug in a lap top to their car when they get to the track , I know nothing about that stuff.
My junk is old school , so old school methods work for me .
 
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Dom 332 said:
You asked "anyone else want to throw their hat into the ring " so here is my hat and what works for me......
Old school BBC drag car:
A few minutes run time in the garage setting timing and such . Then a trip down the return road and back . Then stage the car for first time trial and make a full pass . That was at least 500 passes ago and every cylinder still only has between 7 and 8% leakage . Thats how I have done it with every new build and freshen up . Years ago one of my new drag engine builds was a flat tappet cam so I would do the 1/2 hour cam break in then take it to the track and do what I mentioned above.
Old school SBC street car:
After 1/2 hour run time in the garage at 2500-3000 to break in flat tappet cam . After that over a period of a few days I would dive it a total of about 50 or 60 miles varying the RPM range , no steady RPM like highway driving. That is how I have done it for a few street engines.
Never had any of the fancy A/F gauges or anything like that , gave the engine what it wanted and or needed for its intended use .
In my opinion , with my type of old school builds , and with my limited knowledge ....
No engine is going to have perfect A/F at every rpm and in every weather condition (unless computer controlled like a modern car), can't set the timing for the street and have it be perfect for the track , cant set advance for the street and expect it to be perfect at the track . You have to find a happy medium in a street/strip car unless you want to carry a toolbox in your trunk . I guess you / someone can have perfect "settings" without a tool box in their trunk if they have the ability to plug in a lap top to their car when they get to the track , I know nothing about that stuff.
My junk is old school , so old school methods work for me .
Click to expand...
This sums up the best advice
 
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