Foxy Green Foxbody Build

good thing you're not up against a 45 min. turnaround time....
 
89 Fox 427 said:
On another note, something I noticed.

If I use thick assembly lube and drop lifters in they slowly lower themselves into the hole. If I use wd40 they drop right in.

I know this doesn't tell me lifter bore clearance precisely, but does that sound normal or tight?
Click to expand...
Normal. That shit is thick and sticky. Designed to cling to vertical surfaces, so that it doesn’t drain before start up.
 
Fox, let me be your friend for a minute.

You need to measure the clearance.
Just because a lifter fits into the bore doesn't mean it has at least .0012 clearance.
 
I just checked the accuracy of the Amazon $47 metric micrometer.

I get a few tenths off for some reason, while my inch one is dead on with everything stabilized at temperature. :unsure:
This will be fine for what you're going to do.
If you can get your hands on a standard you can check yours.

Anyway, buy a micrometer and find the diameter of the largest dimension of your lifters.
Then buy one or two of the McMaster pin gages that @Yoyodyne mentioned.
Hopefully you can get one that's about .0015 larger than your measurement.
Then check the relative sizes of the lifter and the gage to make sure you're good.

The gages will probably be "minus" ones, which mean they're about two tenths less than the stated size.
This is so they can fit in the hole to be tested with just hand pressure.

If the gage is at least .001 bigger than the lifter by your measurement and fits in the bore you have at least .0012 clearance.
It doesn't seem like you have to test for too much clearance...

Keep in mind that you'll be working with relative measurements between lifter and gage.
It doesn't matter if the numbers are accurate as long as your technique is consistent.
 
"how much shit, can a shit lifter shit, if a shit lifter could shit - shit"?
damn dude! at least your are scrutinizing every-thing
 
Steve439 said:
I just checked the accuracy of the Amazon $47 metric micrometer.

I get a few tenths off for some reason, while my inch one is dead on with everything stabilized at temperature. :unsure:
This will be fine for what you're going to do.
If you can get your hands on a standard you can check yours.

Anyway, buy a micrometer and find the diameter of the largest dimension of your lifters.
Then buy one or two of the McMaster pin gages that @Yoyodyne mentioned.
Hopefully you can get one that's about .0015 larger than your measurement.
Then check the relative sizes of the lifter and the gage to make sure you're good.

The gages will probably be "minus" ones, which mean they're about two tenths less than the stated size.
This is so they can fit in the hole to be tested with just hand pressure.

If the gage is at least .001 bigger than the lifter by your measurement and fits in the bore you have at least .0012 clearance.
It doesn't seem like you have to test for too much clearance...

Keep in mind that you'll be working with relative measurements between lifter and gage.
It doesn't matter if the numbers are accurate as long as your technique is consistent.
Click to expand...

McMaster has nearly any size I want to order. 1 to 4 weeks delivery.

Johnson stated their tolerance is .8735" to .8740" on lifter diameter, and they want to see .0018" clearance. The lifters I just sent out measured .8738 and .8739". The lifter I just had issues with measured .8750" on the burr, and didn't fit into the hole. I probably could have pushed it in though.

Sounds to me like the bores are too small.
 
With too little clearance you get:

Galling and scuffing. Not enough room for film of oil to cushion the lifter, and you get metal to metal contact.

Also oil starvation as the engine warms up and tolerances close. The clearance allows the oil film to feed its internal valving. If it is tight enough to wipe the bore dry, the lifter will starve for oil, clatter, and eventually fail.

Sound familiar?
 
Steve, Ebay and msi-viking sell .8752" gauges.

If I buy that, and it doesn't fit, someone better pick this car up from me because I'm done with it.

Johnson said ideally .0018". Absolutely no more than .0022". Intranet says minimum .0012". I will have to call Johnson and verify the minimum then order the gauge to test
 
If you really get to a vehicular homicide point...

I'm in a similar, but less dire situation with my exhaust valve guides.
I measure my clearance at .0012, which is also the least I've seen specified.
I want a little more in general, plus if my measurement is a tenth off I'm out of range.

I bought a "flex-hone" in the proper size and I'm going to try one pass on the tightest guide.

If you get really desperate you might be able to take out your cam+oil pan, turn your block upside down, run a flex-hone through it, and flush and scrub it.
Definitely not ideal, but better than nothing.

 
Mr. Breeze said:
1 out of 16 lifters didn't fit very nice, in any hole. That's a lifter problem, not a hole problem.

Really seems simple to my pea brain. Correct the lifter problem, move on.
Click to expand...

If it fits, it ships doesn't really apply

See posts 2287 and 2288.

Minimum clearance needs to be checked. If it seizes in the bore, none of the lovely fuckers here are going to send me a check to fix it
 
I think the tapered parallels are the way to go. You'd be able to actually measure the bores rather than just have a go/nogo test. IF you can get the mic on them while in the lifter holes.
 
Yoyodyne said:
I think the tapered parallels are the way to go. You'd be able to actually measure the bores rather than just have a go/nogo test. IF you can get the mic on them while in the lifter holes.
Click to expand...
My dumb ass would drop them down into the oil pan trying to use them
 
All he needs is a quality .750-1.125 snap gauge, a quality 0-1 mic with a standard & somebody who knows how to use them correctly.

It’s done all day long without any drama, blame gaming, or hours spent posting on the webz.
 
What is another word for "standard" the internet doesn't show me wtf that is so I can get one
 
89 Fox 427 said:
What is another word for "standard" the internet doesn't show me wtf that is so I can get one
Click to expand...

Mitutoyo 167-141 Standard Bar, 1" Length, ±0.00005 Accuracy, Precision Reference Standard for Micrometer Calibration, High-Stability Steel Construction for Accurate Tool Verification and Inspection: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Mitutoyo 167-141 Standard Bar, 1" Length, ±0.00005 Accuracy, Precision Reference Standard for Micrometer Calibration, High-Stability Steel Construction for Accurate Tool Verification and Inspection: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
 
That's pretty expensive, if you buy a 1"-2" Mitu you'll get one with it... :)

There are also calibration blocks, I have a .500.

I think you mentioned a 1-2-3 block, which I've never used but sound like they work.

Realistically, though, if you buy a quality 0"-1" micrometer and just zero it you're probably fine.
I bet millions of guys have done that.
 
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