Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Steve439 said:
Not to add to your worries, but I'm wondering if the oil is going through the filter.
I don't know enough about the SBF, can the bypass be left open or is there a way to assemble it incorrectly?
I don't have much confidence in your short block builder...
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Bypass is in the filter, jomar has no bypass and Baldwin sells one also iirc.
Not sure if he used the jomar or not. 🤞
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Nothing rusty, but I specifically remember complaining about the bores feeling "gritty" when sliding the lifters in. I cleaned them, they weren't dirty... but it just felt off. I didn't know enough, called the shortblock builder, the owner told me to run sandpaper through the 85% assembled engine. I told him he's nuts if he thinks I'm going to run sandpaper through the bores with an oil pan installed.

What I've learned in all this is don't be lazy. I didn't want to pull the pan (again) but should have so I could touch up the bores.
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So you think million dollar lifters are going to be ok now that the bores have been cleaned up by 100k lifters?
I'd be pulling the injun and doing it right no matter how much time it took.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I couldn't even begin to assume where the noise comes from
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One cool thing I have heard is a buddies NHRA Stock Eliminator cars, he has several. When he shuts off the engine you can hear the vacuum in the crankcase! It is crazy. He is proud of his well-sealed $20k engines for sure. They are not allowed a vacuum pump, this is all done with a "normal" PCV system, it's crazy. But I guess for that kind of money I would want my shit perfectly sealed too!

You must have stopped here overnight when I put my wives engine back in her race car. I just know it!

I started it up to start the break-in process, typical bracket car, electric water pump, dual electric fans. I was filling it with water and that fucker is shooting water out of the radiator like I have a cracked block! I'm like what the fuck! I just spent $8k rebuilding this piece of shit and somehow something serious is wrong!

And to make it stranger, when I lowered the rpm the water fountain GOT WORSE!

Remember, this is an electric water pump.........

I was just thinking of all the shit you have been through. I finished filling it, it stopped the geyser action. Got it hot, shut it off, walked away. Came back 4 hours later, start it up again, no geyser. Put the radiator pressure tester on there, would slowly build pressure as it got hot, very normal. Shut it off, held pressure for a few hours.

So that the fuck............. Put 6 passes on it last month, car was perfect!

A good friend that works on all kinds of shit, including boilers, told me there was probably oil or something still in the water jacket that caused this geyser. I don't know, but the thing is fine.

Hopefully yours comes around too!

And you're right, that first set of lifters made the clearance you need for the new set. Good luck!
 
When I ran a dragster with just the water in the engine and no radiator, we had to bleed the air out of the back of the heads as we filled it. I put petcocks in the back of the intake manifold where the water passages were in the heads. If you didn't bleed the air pockets out either the water would boil (I assume) at the back of the heads or the air would expand and geyser out the fill pipe like you are describing. The engine was tilted down in the front increasing the air pocket size.
 
225digger said:
diesel engines you can hear it drain back. but your talking about something with 3-12 gals of oil vs, something with 6 qrts.

wait till he gets a really cool engine that chirps.
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Fawkin chevies, if ya can't make the tires chirp then at least make the belts chirp 😆🤣
 
Yoyodyne said:
When I ran a dragster with just the water in the engine and no radiator, we had to bleed the air out of the back of the heads as we filled it. I put petcocks in the back of the intake manifold where the water passages were in the heads. If you didn't bleed the air pockets out either the water would boil (I assume) at the back of the heads or the air would expand and geyser out the fill pipe like you are describing. The engine was tilted down in the front increasing the air pocket size.
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My dragster has a petcock on the top of the AFCO rad. For just that purpose.
 
Now you guys got me thinking about other shit.

Fill the radiator. Turn water pump on. Refill to the top. Cap it.

Isn't that enough to burp the system?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Now you guys got me thinking about other shit.

Fill the radiator. Turn water pump on. Refill to the top. Cap it.

Isn't that enough to burp the system?
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If your engine and rad cap etc are at factory heights you'll probably be ok. The only time I've had an air lock with my foxbody and 351 was when I poured the coolant in from a 5 gal bucket, apparently too fast. Disconnected heater core hose at firewall and that got rid of the air.
Edit: that's always been with the factory pump, not an electric
 
I usually have to jack my TA up and put the belt around my cordless drill as i fill it or i end up with a big air pocket. Ive always assumed it was because the heater core/hoses are at the highest elevation 🤷🏻‍♂️


At the rate your going you’ll be making noise out of the pipes before long 👍🏻
 
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