Foxy Green Foxbody Build

I have harbor freight micrometers. My good high dollar analog one is in WV. New lifters because it sounded like a lifter and I want to be 100% sure I trust the lifters. I don't know new lifter diameter. I know he wants .0018 to .0020 maximum clearance, but said don't stress if 1 or 2 are .0022 clearance.

That stressed me out
 
Yoyodyne said:
Has anyone started a pool about the problem yet? I keep thinking the source of the metal is in the valve springs. And I've had a tick in a valve spring already.
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I'd like to start the pool.

A) foxy wants perfection and overthinks stuff which explains why he's single and unsuccessful

B) unknown but will go away once reassembled

C) oil selection

D) rod knock and the car is for sale or a gofundme will be started for a crate engine
 
I'm trying to think up a way to measure the lifters and bore without having a lot of metrology equipment and a qualified technician to use them on site. Measuring to .0001 is not a casual undertaking. The printed pin suggestion gave me an idea - The printed pin isn't good enough, but you can buy gage pins accurate to .0001 in any size you need in .0005 increments. McMaster's price is $18 each, so once you knew the lifter diameter you could buy 3 or 5 pins slightly larger than that size, and you could tell by their fit in the bore what the clearance is. This would eliminate the need for a bore gage and the equipment to set and calibrate it and the feel needed to use it well. It would require a .0001 micrometer, but that can be borrowed purchased used or outsourced to somone local.
 
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As much as I hate telescoping gauges, you could probably get by with a Harbor Freight set to measure the lifter bores. You'll be using the same mic as you used to measure the lifter. Like Yoyodyne said, measuring to .0001 isn't the easiest with less than quality tools. I like the pin gauge,
 
Boosted Bullet said:
As much as I hate telescoping gauges, you could probably get by with a Harbor Freight set to measure the lifter bores. You'll be using the same mic as you used to measure the lifter. Like Yoyodyne said, measuring to .0001 isn't the easiest with less than quality tools. I like the pin gauge,
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Even 'good' telescoping gages are rough inside and hard to get a good feel with. But they can be used for close work by someone really good with them. Fox is not experienced with that stuff, it's expecting a lot of him to get him to have confidence that he's getting good measurements himself with snap gages. I think, anyway. I've tried to teach how to do it to recruits and the deer in the headlights look is major.

Boosted Bullet said:
I see the HF mics actually do measure in .0001, nice that the lifter is under an inch, so at least you can make sure the mic is zeroed.
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89 Fox 427 said:
I have harbor freight micrometers. My good high dollar analog one is in WV. New lifters because it sounded like a lifter and I want to be 100% sure I trust the lifters. I don't know new lifter diameter. I know he wants .0018 to .0020 maximum clearance, but said don't stress if 1 or 2 are .0022 clearance.

That stressed me out
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Don't be stressed. That's optimal clearance for best oil control. As usual, too little would be worse than not enough. 3 or 4 thou wouldn't cause a big enough "leak" to cause no flow up top. NOT enough clearance will prevent flow up top with edge orifice oiling. I'm thinking the scratches are from shit in the oil galleries and possibly dirty/rusty bores as you mentioned.
 
heres a question, its a new block right? , so "soft" casting. some shops burnishing the lifter bores. is that a common practice would anyone know ? maybe thats how the bodys got scuffing ? i guess my thought is new block, soft, the bore would need to wear in, so the lifter wore it in and suffed ? just a question. the only after market block i had was a dart big m with bushed bores.
 
Fox if you cant get an accurate enough lifter bore measurement just put the new lifters in oiled up and check they all feel like they slide up and down smooth, if so, id just fucking run it. Your old lifters would have honed away any roughness already

Make sure the lifter preload is correct. Add 15/40 diesel oil (with a bottle of extra zinc if you feel like it) and a good filter like a Baldwin

If it still makes a noise that it shouldn't after all of that

F) I don't think it will
 
what does the bottom side of the rockers look like? Any nicks or gouges to the beam - possibly the bottom of rocker contacting outer diameter of spring and or retainer?
 
Just to have some data to reference. I'm going to put the priming tool in it and watch the lifter bores to see how long it takes to get oil. Kind of useless test maybe, but if it's 5 seconds I can live if extrapolate that data. Pump up the lifters before dropping them in. Prime and see how long without pushrod. Add pushrod and see. Add rocker.. that would speak a little about if there's a restriction somewhere I could narrow it down.

I used to be a manual machinist. Self taught by requirement at work. Eventually learned to program and run a haas cnc. In not scared of .0001 measurements, but I've certainly never used high dollar equipment either. Mitutoyo is about as expensive as I've played with.

Bottom of rockers look fine. They're anodized blue, so any gouges or scrapes would be evident. I don't see any problems with retainers either, but don't have proper tools here to pull them apart and verify anything anymore.

It's just visual while bent over the fender with my tongue out. I call it the d@zzler.
 
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^ Shit, the Fibbies got him...

I think Mitutoyo is the sweet spot for the measuring we do.
 
Steve439 said:
^ Shit, the Fibbies got him...

I think Mitutoyo is the sweet spot for the measuring we do.
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I can't believe I can't say that faggots name either. What happened to this place
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I used to be a manual machinist. Self taught by requirement at work. Eventually learned to program and run a haas cnc. In not scared of .0001 measurements, but I've certainly never used high dollar equipment either. Mitutoyo is about as expensive as I've played with.
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I underestimated you, I apologize, no offense intended.

89 Fox 427 said:
It's just visual while bent over the fender with my tongue out. I call it the d@zzler.
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LOL
 
Yoyodyne said:
I underestimated you, I apologize, no offense intended.
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Oh I wasn't offended. I've never used anything to measure a bore besides calipers. As far as checking to see if the calipers were calibrated, I'd just squeeze them onto a 1-2-3 block and make sure it ended with zeroes 🤣
 
Since you have a .0001 mic these would be all you needed. You slide them in the hole and snug them together, then measure across them to measure the bore. I have a set and like them for certain applications. No real special feel needed other than the mic. Only question I have is whether you can get the mic on them properly while they are in the valley of the engine block.
They won;t show a taper or out of roundness like a dial gage would, but I don't think that's a problem in a lifter bore.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/227278185615?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D1110006%26rkt%3D4%26mech%3D1%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV4WithCtxRankerV1UnifiedFeaturesWithAuctionUnificationKatReco%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sd%3D389567385981%26sid%3DAQALAAAAEAHaBMTPNZqt8ClMSQM%2FZa0%3D%26itm%3D227278185615%26noa%3D0%26plcampt%3D0%3A160321893015%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26brand%3DBrown+%26+Sharpe%26asc%3D305936%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D2%26pid%3D101875%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D0%26meid%3D7b0153bfa06b432e8b0b1d1a88e225d7%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A2272781856157b0153bfa06b432e8b0b1d1a88e225d7%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABQNcuE5wSiaWXUpZtpAuJty4GYCq%252BLEH%252FN8HXnEhWX0xwkDW1uDN51f72s7GsFOUQ9WFGrCI8AiSbyE6tacE%252FxpPzcbI6%252Bfuy9WmqzFcws0Mb%252B5fLyQsTMyuQP79bTAaqUNAfZpuFTjWuIQBLnFkgX0GDLUGf%252FQU6J%252Bvh4cRxT%252BlCHUCFDK3OKvqDtuDxCEkOrzSRDiATuxYiJV3DYcgvUnAouXiQHO8BzuBOxrM05lzCeNtLrO9T2%252FfndOlasYH3PAkeW5RLFk3xyLIoi8DMMIYtScZ9921l4XUi5Be%252BHfTsueEXio3fdLGJ4aQsEImcJj%252F9nGof8x62soARZvdjTdlusxaOwe8J4fk8H%252BzRKnN9mriDUlyZ8Kdxtz4pgyJ8P7tm5EDkDvDlsGEezI6JAACa1HyLQBiUwAygMUjnToJ2%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KQGHKEV7RRJ50CMW888CK4DA
 
My phone won't open the link. What are they called?
 

Brown & Sharpe No. 672 ~ 10 Piece Tapered Parallel Gage Set​

There are also 8 pc sets without the 2 smallest ones, that's what I have. google turned up some video about how to use them too.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Just to have some data to reference. I'm going to put the priming tool in it and watch the lifter bores to see how long it takes to get oil. Kind of useless test maybe, but if it's 5 seconds I can live if extrapolate that data. Pump up the lifters before dropping them in. Prime and see how long without pushrod. Add pushrod and see. Add rocker.. that would speak a little about if there's a restriction somewhere I could narrow it down.

I used to be a manual machinist. Self taught by requirement at work. Eventually learned to program and run a haas cnc. In not scared of .0001 measurements, but I've certainly never used high dollar equipment either. Mitutoyo is about as expensive as I've played with.

Bottom of rockers look fine. They're anodized blue, so any gouges or scrapes would be evident. I don't see any problems with retainers either, but don't have proper tools here to pull them apart and verify anything anymore.

It's just visual while bent over the fender with my tongue out. I call it the d@zzler.
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Not a useless test imo. This is what i was trying to suggest when I said look for "leaks" with intake off. If your oil pan was off you could also see how much oil is flowing out the bottom of the bores. If there's a plug missing you should see or hear it flowing
 
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