Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 427 said:
What dipshit is running synthetic in their hotrod? What did I miss?
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I sure hope no one is running synthetic oil to break in a engine but then again the auto company's are recommending synthetic in the cars
And I don't know what oils race teams run in their engines if it synthetic or conventional
 
Lowrider said:
More Zinc in that oil ? I'd think racing oil should have extra Zinc.
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15-40 in the US has been stripped of all the extra zinc it used to have.

Want more zinc? Get specialty motorsports oil or oil made specifically for lawnmowers (briggs, kawasaki, cub cadet, etc. branded oil)
 
Mixed up said:
I'm a old school guy and I for one will never break a engine in on synthetic oil i would make sure it has the zdp needed to protect the cam and rings and most people I know now break in there engine with diesel oil and a additive or buy the Brad Penn oil or amsoil. But I do say what I do know about LS Engines fuck theinternet speaks the truth
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I have been racing and breaking shit since the 80's. I always follow the same break-in procedure for my engines, and it has never failed me. And you are right, break them in with dino oil then switch to synthetic if you like. I do it with high detergent straight 30. After a few heat cycles in goes the Mobil 1 and I cut that first filter open to make sure there is no glitter in it.
 
Mixed up said:
I sure hope no one is running synthetic oil to break in a engine but then again the auto company's are recommending synthetic in the cars
And I don't know what oils race teams run in their engines if it synthetic or conventional
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If the machine work was done for it, then synthetic from the first start won't hurt. GM filled the Corvettes with synthetic from day one forever. But, they designed it for this. I prefer to not take a chance and use a HD straight 30 for break-in and then dump it after a few heat cycles.
 
FuckTheInternet said:
Not trying to hijack Fox's thread (he has me on ignore anyway) but it is this Kenny below which is why Fox went with the genuine USA made Johnson short travel hydraulic roller lifters. Kenny's green camaro went 3.97 in the 1/8 mile on a 388ci hydraulic roller LS with cathedral heads with out the box Johnson hydraulic lifters and BTR camshaft. Kenny has had several turbo LS cars before this one in the low 7's, high 6's 1/4 mile, and all of his builds have used simple off the shelf parts (with Johnson hydraulic lifters), nothing really exotic. And i know he also used Rotella 15/40 oil in them in the past. He was always willing to share info and all of his combination back when he'd post on the ls1tech forum. His past builds are still posted on there. He is just finishing up a brand new engine build, it'll be interesting (to me at least) to see if the extra CI and LS7 heads gain, over his previous 388ci and cathedral headed builds ..

www.instagram.com

Kenny Dangler on Instagram: "The green 3rd gen is almost done. Just need a little more time to scope the crank signal and work on the crank trigger and she’s ready to rock. #northernperformancecars #hydraulicrollerdaddy #9000rpm #ls #camaro"

461 likes, 12 comments - northernperformance_kennyd on April 25, 2026: "The green 3rd gen is almost done. Just need a little more time to scope the crank signal and work on the crank trigger and she’s ready to rock. #northernperformancecars #hydraulicrollerdaddy #9000rpm #ls #camaro".
www.instagram.com www.instagram.com
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Dude, big deal, we find one guy that does something a certain way and now his way is Gospel? Gimme a break. I've been doing this shit forever, well, since the early 80's, that's a long fucking time.

Compare apples to apples! Brian has a SBF, and it is an aftermarket (good move) block. He should be talking to people using the same parts to see if he is doing something wrong. There is another thread about troubles with an Iron Eagle block (SBC), oiling issues. I have only worked with one person that used that block. The engine builder had to do a LOT of stuff for him because that block was not designed for a wet sump system.

Brian had two issues, metal up in the heads and ticking when hot. Shit expands when hot, so what is happening to him? Could a different oil have helped him? Maybe. But this Kenny dude has a completely different engine. I do know some people using those Johnson short-travel lifters with hydraulic rollers in SBF & SBC combinations and they are happy. Will Foxy be? I hope so.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Beetlejuice disappeared long ago for me. You must be talking to the ghost of LS past. Or the ghost of Rothschild future? I don't know, either way.. is he spewing LS content again?
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He can not help himself. He can post useful info at times, but then goes on his typical Rothchild tirades, Jews running and ruining the world, LS is the engine from God himself............. It gets old.
 
just use some KY or astroglide since it keeps fucking you.

personally i think your over thinking it. all this becuase a few pcs of metal, could have been from your beard, shot from making the cast aluminum valve covers that finally came free.
 
225digger said:
just use some KY or astroglide since it keeps fucking you.

personally i think your over thinking it. all this becuase a few pcs of metal, could have been from your beard, shot from making the cast aluminum valve covers that finally came free.
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There was a ticking noise also, I bet had FoxyGreen not heard that he wouldn't have ripped it apart and end up where he is now.
 
225digger said:
just use some KY or astroglide since it keeps fucking you.

personally i think your over thinking it. all this becuase a few pcs of metal, could have been from your beard, shot from making the cast aluminum valve covers that finally came free.
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He did say it was ferrous and was picked up with a magnet. That one pushrod was getting pretty beat up, but I don't disagree with you about his overthinking it.

I did send him a text asking if he overthinks everything he sticks his dick in because he'd never get laid. His response: "Actually I do". :lmao:
 
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Patriot Racer said:
He did say it was ferrous and was picked up with a magnet. That one pushrod was getting pretty beat up, but I don't disagree with you about his overthinking it.

I did send him a text asking if he overthinks everything, he sticks his dick in because he'd never get laid. His response: "Actually I do". :lmao:
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LMAO. I believe it!
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Almost as bad as pushing efi on everybody 😆🤣😉
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EFI has it's place, and it isn't for everyone. I don't sell it so I will never push it. Anyone with a power adder should be using it, it makes things so much easier. But, a blow-up (oops, blow-through) carb can also work. :)

It certainly is expensive to convert from a carb to EFI, no doubt about that!
 
Has anyone started a pool about the problem yet? I keep thinking the source of the metal is in the valve springs. And I've had a tick in a valve spring already.
 
Fox, do you have a micrometer?
If so, measure the lifter bodies when you get them and I'll see if I can print a testing cylinder that's .001 bigger.
If a cylinder fits in a hole without pressing it in it generally means the hole is at least .0002 bigger.

Actually, I'll print up an .875 cylinder and see how close the printer can get.
I'll let you know.
 
Fox, what was your reasoning for buying new lifters. Do you think that's the source of the noise and or oiling up top or because your others are scratched up now?
 
Steve439 said:
Fox, do you have a micrometer?
If so, measure the lifter bodies when you get them and I'll see if I can print a testing cylinder that's .001 bigger.
If a cylinder fits in a hole without pressing it in it generally means the hole is at least .0002 bigger.

Actually, I'll print up an .875 cylinder and see how close the printer can get.
I'll let you know.
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I believe he said 0.8715
Edit: Thats the old ones I assume
 
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