Baller šŸ˜‚ 76' C10 Cheap Toy

Update Still no track time. Last week was rained out again and this week I am working.

I wouldn't be racing this week anyway as I was having a water leak issue. Somehow I got a little in the #2 hole. I noticed some water on the head stud just above the bottom on that hole. I didn't think much off the stud getting a little wet but when we noticed a wet spot under the collector when I cranked it I decided I have to fix this. So today I pulled that head off and going to try to solve this little issue. While doing so I found another issue. The #2 sparkplug hole has some screwed up threads or what is left of them. So that is getting addressed then going to try and go back together.
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Anthony67 said:
You oring with a mls?
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Head has Oring block has no receiver grove. I Explained all this to Cometic. They specifically gave me this part number MLS gasket that they said was for exactly this application.
I tried to find a shop to put the receiver groves in my block. Everyone says basically the same thing MLS has solved that we donā€™t do those anymore. Believe it or not yesterday I found out we have a local guy that actually does do them. He does some really high end billet stuff I hear.
So if I donā€™t get this solved this attempt I will see about getting the groove put in it and copper it will get.
I just hate I havenā€™t been able to see the actual problem. I didnā€™t see any trace evidence but everything is new and being steel gasket itā€™s not like a old FelPro where it was obvious where it was leaking.
 
Did they say what size wire to use or how far off the deck the wire should protrude?

I recall seeing a deal where the wire is milled flush? Or run copper wire?

Id imagine a ring would deform the gasket make hard to torque eveny

Do they Spray em with hylomar?
 
Anthony67 said:
Did they say what size wire to use or how far off the deck the wire should protrude?

I recall seeing a deal where the wire is milled flush? Or run copper wire?

Id imagine a ring would deform the gasket make hard to torque eveny

Do they Spray em with hylomar?
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Cometic didn't say anything on protrusion and my rookie ass didn't ask. :facepalm: They did put a nice ring into the gasket that appears to be even. I just remember asking about do these go on dry and they said yes. It worked on one bank. :larf: Hylomar is what I am trying this time. I'm just going to give it a try I had some local guys that are way more familiar than I am with blown applications say it will fix me up. :shrug:
The question now becomes do I pull the other head while I'm here and Hylomar that side as well... :ponda:
 
Just a quick update. I got my cylinder head back I had dropped off, #2 sparkplug hole was stripped. Don't know how that happened as I use anti seize on them. Anyway found it and its been fixed moving on. I am suppose to be getting my Hylomar spray and new intake gaskets Tuesday.
I did disassemble the carburetor as I wanted to make sure all the needle and seats were clean and no trash made it into the bowls. With all the new fuel lines I have seen in the past a tiny piece still find its way into stuff. Also I had to remove all the alcohol from everything since it was going to be sitting for a little bit.
Hopefully be backup and running soon.
 
I'm out here getting the Cheap Toy Bastard back together. Got the head back on. We decided to just see what it would take to get the 14/71 on it. She's gonna need a doghouse. Its got to go back a tad more that I don't have currently. I have to say it looks way better than a ProCharger imho. :p

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Well today was my first day on the track with the truck. I'm sure I have said many times I haven't raced anything with any power or really at all in 20+ years. If I hadn't well I just did. So the butterflies were there I will not lie. Also understand I know I am a idiot and you don't have to tell again. :larf:

When I got unloaded I checked the Co2 bottle by turning it on to see the gauge register. It has plenty so I turn it back off. I'm telling you this because it matters in a little bit. Anyway I am getting ready in the pits. The plan was a launch on footbrake fairly low RPM as we have no idea what may break or happen. I was going to manually shift the burnout and the pass. I say pass but we really planned to just 60ft the first time.

Long story here I went and asked if they had any idea when tnt would be getting called. The response was well those bikes just came up like it was time so come on. I hurry back to the truck and now I am up. I am not ready as this caught me off guard but I didn't want to miss a chance to get a pass.

Now mind you the cam lock harness was sort of adjusted, my helmet was still in the bag, my jacket is in my bag and my pants well that is a whole other story. (I'm returning my 3rd pair that does not fit) Anyway I am grabbing shit like its free money on a tree trying to get all strapped in and ready. I finally pull in and try to do a burnout and the truck shifted early I never touched it! So no smoke just a lame attempt. I'm trying to figure out what the hell just happened the Co2 is was off. But I know that shifter just shifted and killed the burnout. At the same time I have my crew giving me all kinds of signals to back up and hit it again. Also I have a huge problem forming on my glasses. FOG omg my breathing has fogged my glasses nearly to where I cant see. :facepalm: I backed up again and attempted again to do a burnout. Same shit shifter was like a ghost was working it. I staged finally left off footbrake at 2000 and with two shitty attempts at a burnout I got a tiny wheelie.
I get back to the pits I had a 1.596 sixty ft. After some discussion it dawns on me that when I checked the Co2 bottle I didnt bleed the lines and that allowed the shifter to shift. It was the only thing I could come up with. Oh and the shifts were set to shift at 4000rpm. So we felt good we know the error of our ways.
​
Ok butterflies gone I feel great am anxious to try and hit it a little harder maybe stretch this thing out a little bit. We go up everything is checking out good. We just wanted a little improvement and some data to verify we needed to make adjustment to correct that slight left move it made. We also planned to just leave the air on and let it shift it. I adjusted shift point to 5500rpm.

Back to do my burnout and this damn driver with marbles for brains does another horrible burnout. I didn't think the shifter shifted so I shifted it and apparently I was wrong and shifted it too early. Repeat of last time with the crew they are waving hand signals like a airliner is landing. I back up and they want some smoke. I'm like ok its on I'm melting these tires. I finish the burnout and start creping to stage and I see my guy waving me to stop. He is all over where my puke tank is so I am thinking ok it just puked and I back out. As I start to head back to the pits low and behold there is a blue lighted switch that runs the water pump and its not on. :pissed:I look over at the temp gauge it reads 230. So yeah I was cooking my shit. That pass was aborted.

After some cool down it was time to get my act together. I decided to tell my guys I was having a very difficult time seeing. :larf: I think they were relieved. They were probably thinking we needed a new driver. We get another attempt and the plan was the same but turn on the water pump. Don't bother with the fan for the radiator we found out it has quit. :wtf: This attempt was ok but for some reason I am having shifter issues probably driver error but I plan to work on that and get to the bottom of it. Still a shit burnout. And the truck moved even harder to the left. If you watch close it tried to push through the beams. I was trying to get a little more rpms to launch with. Oh well next time out we are going to just use the trans brake.
This hit was a 1.523 sixty foot that wasn't even under power the whole sixty feet. We definitely confirmed its leaving to the left. :p
We all took the positives and are going to work on them. There was a few other things but I don't want to make this post that long so I am going to bed.
 
Thatā€™s awesome man. Glad you were able to get out there and start hatching things out. I love the little chuckle on the first pass ā€œhaha look at her go!ā€ Genuinely happy to see it heading down the track. šŸ‘šŸ»šŸ¤™šŸ»
 
If everything else is good on the suspension, Iā€™d shorten the passenger side ARB downlink 1/4ā€ at a time until it goes straight.

Were you adjusting the correct gear in the Biondo rpm switch? I think it has like 4 gear shift inputs doesnā€™t it?

Sounds like you guys had fun, have some things to work out, butterflies are gone. Iā€™m already anxious to hear about the next outings progress.
 
Anthony67 said:
Use a drop of trans fluid on the plug threads learned that from Connely

Anti sieze is an insulatore and gums up threads
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I did not know that.
I did the drop of oil on my Iron heads but when I switched to aluminum heads years ago I started pitting anti seize on my plugs thinking I was doing a good thing.
I will no longer do that.
 
SteveTX said:
OK ok enough with the Price is Right. You all under bid. :nutkik:
Shes a fat pig.
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without you in it (subtract 281 lbs) your C-10 is "only" 466lbs heavier than my 70 Camaro (3107lb without me in it).
I know 466lb in drag racing is a lot , I said "only" because I thought it would be a good bit more than 466lbs difference.
 
Lowrider said:
If I could it "love" a hundred times I would. :love: :love: :love:
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I appreciate it. Just remember I post stuff for entertainment purposes only :larf:
Patriot Racer said:
Thatā€™s awesome man. Glad you were able to get out there and start hatching things out. I love the little chuckle on the first pass ā€œhaha look at her go!ā€ Genuinely happy to see it heading down the track. šŸ‘šŸ»šŸ¤™šŸ»
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My brother he is awesome. He should hate my guts for how I treated him when we were kids. Glad he doesnā€™t.
Patriot Racer said:
If everything else is good on the suspension, Iā€™d shorten the passenger side ARB downlink 1/4ā€ at a time until it goes straight.

Were you adjusting the correct gear in the Biondo rpm switch? I think it has like 4 gear shift inputs doesnā€™t it?

Sounds like you guys had fun, have some things to work out, butterflies are gone. Iā€™m already anxious to hear about the next outings progress.
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Today we are going to recheck everything under the truck and make appropriate adjustments. He had a think 2 flats preload in top bar. If every other measurement is all right we are going to remove that. Well that was the plan last night.
I did try to make sure I was on the correct gear change in the Biondo box. But I could have made a mistake. This is definitely on my list of things to triple check this week. I think most of the shifter issues are self inflicted but I want to make sure.
I will try and keep everyone interested updated. I also sent you a message last night. Not sure if the messages worked let me know if you got it. :thumbup:
Dom 332 said:
I did not know that.
I did the drop of oil on my Iron heads but when I switched to aluminum heads years ago I started pitting anti seize on my plugs thinking I was doing a good thing.
I will no longer do that.
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Same exact thing I did and said.
Dom 332 said:
without you in it (subtract 281 lbs) your C-10 is "only" 466lbs heavier than my 70 Camaro (3107lb without me in it).
I know 466lb in drag racing is a lot , I said "only" because I thought it would be a good bit more than 466lbs difference.
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Yeah sheā€™s definitely not a lightweight but Im not doing it any justice adding my weight. I have started 4 days ago to work on my weight. I know I should have already but got to start at some point. Yesterday was the first night I didnā€™t get my mile in. I was really disappointed in myself for that.
As for the truck weight I was not thrilled about it but realistically I knew it was going to be in that weight area. I was just hoping it was like 3150 or so without me. My 67 I raced way back was 3150 but has a aluminum headed small block no cage and no 200lbs of blower. :shrug:Had this been a all tube chassis build id a been pissed. :lmao:

Thanks everyone for all the comments :thumbup:
 
Great videos Steve,First time jitters are to be expected and you will get more comfortable for sure.I have done the same things and so has my Son with the switches in the beginning. Once you get comfortable you will remember. I installed a cooling controller from K&R in this dragster and it handles both the pump and the fan automatically and it is adjustable to what you want. Set it and forget it. I highly recommend it.And it wasn't that much money .

So glad you got to get out.

Automatic Fan/Water Pump Controller - K R Performance Engineering

Temperature sensing fan and water pump controller.
www.krperformance.com
 
Mark D. said:
Great videos Steve,First time jitters are to be expected and you will get more comfortable for sure.I have done the same things and so has my Son with the switches in the beginning. Once you get comfortable you will remember. I installed a cooling controller from K&R in this dragster and it handles both the pump and the fan automatically and it is adjustable to what you want. Set it and forget it. I highly recommend it.And it wasn't that much money .

So glad you got to get out.

Automatic Fan/Water Pump Controller - K R Performance Engineering

Temperature sensing fan and water pump controller.
www.krperformance.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the kind words. That cooling controller does look like a nice piece. I will keep that in mind when the funds are in better shape. Last night I found out my daughter and fiancƩ are looking sooner than later to get married. So there went spare funds for a bit. :larf:
 
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