Tune in on Sunday for....

Iron Cat said:
You ever torque a bolt, mark its location, break it loose then retorque it again and look where the mark is?
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Yes I have retorqued many a Cummins head. Cold and hot retorques. I have a special torque sequence when setting a Cummins head using stock head bolts that is quite unique, but is proven to work
 
RacinDuallie said:
Yes I have retorqued many a Cummins head. Cold and hot retorques. I have a special torque sequence when setting a Cummins head using stock head bolts that is quite unique, but is proven to work
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I'm assuming is friction that causes the bolt to turn further after broken loose and retorqued.
 
Mitch H said:
Just remembered another thing we found today.....I am an anal fuck about engine bolts, nuts, etc. I do not like to use power tools to bust stuff loose or install them. I like to FEEL them. After removing a couple of rod bolts, I asked Mark to get a torque wrench. Tried tightening one rod bolt, then tried loosening another, they were at least 10psi too tight. 89 Fox used a small impact to break all the main cap bolts, but the gun would not budge one of them. I used the torque wrench to remove it......close to 15 pounds too tight. That stuff bothers me. I have 5 torque wrenches, and I have them all recalibrated every couple of years.
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I thought I was the only one! (y)
 
fullboogie said:
So you just come into every thread and act like a cat dick. And you wonder why you're the new Marcus.
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The only thing I wonder is why when I respond in kind to you and the other klowns it matters to you so much and you have so little dignity that you are willing to display your PB derangement syndrome so openly. Why don't you go back in this thread, or any one you chose, and see who threw the first insult. Maybe, just maybe, you ain't cut out for the internet. Go to a bar and ask some stranger why he acts like a cat dick and don't wonder if you get a surprise.
 
RacinDuallie said:
You ever deal with graffite impregnated rope water seals in a DC electric motor pump setup to flow up 15 stories? And have a backup pump, and emergency pump? All with rope seals? Been there done that. Next?
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You should see what happens to those seals when someone turns the pump back on too quickly after a brief power outage. Someone referred to it as the "water hammer" effect.
 
DHR Darren said:
You know this thread is kind of like going out with your buddies having a few beers and then running into a couple old coworkers that were annoying as fuck.
Pretty soon you're hammering back beers and next thing you know you look around after your harassing those old coworkers and you're in a fucking gay bar getting picked up on by some dude old enough to where his dick doesn't even get hard anymore.

Yeah, the thread had great intentions and the guys with those great intentions succeeded but boy there's a lot of homosexualness in here.
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Nobody asked what you did this weekend, but thanks for sharing :LOL:
 
Iron Cat said:
I'm assuming is friction that causes the bolt to turn further after broken loose and retorqued.
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When applying torque to a factory torque to yield thread bolt, what is the number 1 enemy to friction which happens to the threads as torque is applied? Just asking.
 
SRGN said:
You should see what happens to those seals when someone turns the pump back on too quickly after a brief power outage. Someone referred to it as the "water hammer" effect.
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Head pressure can wreck havoc. There is a calculated measure depending upon pipe size/pump gpm amount.....
 
Mitch H said:
I don't remember the exact scenario, 89 Fox will have to chime in on it, but there were at least two engine builders involved for some reason, I guess? Anyhow, the last builder told 89 Fox that the previous builder used the wrong bearings, so he changed them. He did NOT tell Fox what was wrong with them, or what he put in the motor? We have the bearings, and while I did not write anything down, it is easy enough to read the info on the back of the bearings. Once the block is all cleaned, we will take the necessary measurements and get the correct bearings for the desired clearance.

Plastigage is better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, but anybody that builds more than a couple of motors should have quality measuring tools.
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The problem isn't having precision measuring tools. It's using them properly that's becoming increasingly rare.
 
Mr. Breeze said:
Hard to tell in the pic posted, but it doesn't even look like it wore through the babbitt layer on the mains...
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It did not get there yet. After seeing everything in person, and talking to 89 about it, I think the bronze colored look of the glitter was just an illusion because of the oil, or lighting, or whatever.
 
Steve439 said:
Thinking about it, I hope the mains are machined correctly.
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SB Ford, lucky the main webs are still in the block.

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First builder (roughly 2009) purchased most of the parts, and assembled 90% of the engine.

The following year I took it to a builder to finish it. He heard clicking on the engine while turning it by hand. I did not have extra money at the time for him to dig into it, so I paid what I owed and left the block in storage for 10+ years

When I got back to it, I decided to investigate, and found negative piston to valve clearance.

Disassembled the entire engine to find a few cylinders were rusted beyond repair with a hone. Purchased a new block from competition products. Direct from them the block was cleaned, magnafluxed, sonic tested, painted, with plugs and bearings installed, and oiled.

Engine sat for a many more months in my kitchen until I decided to take it to the next builder to finish the job.

When i picked it up, he said it had the wrong bearings in it. I did not think to ask what bearings he was talking about. He also did not balance the engine as I had requested.

He fucked up several things, first one I found was valve lash was incorrect, hanging open valves leaving no compression. Evidently he didn't clean everything properly, and it would seem the bearing clearances were incorrect.

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You are getting pretty much the entire hot rod/race engine experience except that you have a lot of reuseable parts and fixing this will be pretty straightforward. BTDT you have my sincere sympathy. The shame of this is the good shops can't charge any more than the shitty shops charge.
 
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