Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Lowrider said:
Where are you getting the wire from? I need to do a tail light harness for my car.
I see some on epay, 16 gauge and a bunch of different colors but I am worried about it being cheap chyna crap.
Click to expand...
I'd replace the whole harness, I've seen a lot of fires on vehicles that reused 50+ year old wiring.

American Autowire 510360 Classic Update Wiring Kit 1965 Chevy Impala https://a.co/d/7jL50V3
 
Lowrider said:
Where are you getting the wire from? I need to do a tail light harness for my car.
I see some on epay, 16 gauge and a bunch of different colors but I am worried about it being cheap chyna crap.
Click to expand...
I use Rebel Wiring. I have used 6 of their harnesses so far. I really like them. And they are affordable.
 
Fuel cell came in today.

And he built it wrong.

Big fucking surprise. His response was, oh i guess i missed that.

I sent him an isometric drawing i made in fusion360, impossible to fuck up. Or so i thought.

Not to mention im pretty sure it's mig welded, which i could have done myself.
20230720_174524.jpg
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Fuel cell came in today.

And he built it wrong.

Big fucking surprise. His response was, oh i guess i missed that.

I sent him an isometric drawing i made in fusion360, impossible to fuck up. Or so i thought.

Not to mention im pretty sure it's mig welded, which i could have done myself.
View attachment 28868
Click to expand...
What did he mess up?
 
As some of you have already seen, i had clutch fork and header clearance issues with my T56 with quicktime bellhousing and mac long tube headers (the headers are specifically for a 351w swap in a foxbody, however i don't believe they took into account a t56 transmission)

A few culprits here i think. The T5 manual transmission has the clutch fork at the 9 o clock position, and i believe with anything but long tubes, the 7 o clock position would be fine for clearance.

The solution:

Bashing primary tube from #6 cylinder.
Trimming the clutch fork.
Installing the midpipe.

Here's what i learned.

I trimmed the fork too much. This would have put the clutch cable in a bind because it was no longer in a straight line. I thought about using some kind of swivel joint or swivel bearing, that way all the way through the travel it would have corrected the alignment itself. Ain't nobody got time for that, and i can weld sooo...

I made a piece, drilled a new hole, and welded it to the clutch fork. This put me much closer to being in line.

The reason installing the midpipe helped was because it spread my headers apart just a bit and gave me more clearance. Knowing this now, i should have installed the midpipe before i cut the fork or smashed the header, to truly see what kind of clearance i needed.

Here's the beginning of the problem
20230805_141652.jpg

The smashed header, cut fork

20230818_143809.jpg

And my welded on solution

20230819_134254.jpg
 
The issue you may run into, since the midpipe has the headers "sprung", you need to heat the tubes up so they align properly in a relaxed position. Heating the header tubes up red hot while the midpipe is where you want it should take care of it. Otherwise you will probably crack the tubes at the flange after a few heat cycles.
 
SRGN said:
The issue you may run into, since the midpipe has the headers "sprung", you need to heat the tubes up so they align properly in a relaxed position. Heating the header tubes up red hot while the midpipe is where you want it should take care of it. Otherwise you will probably crack the tubes at the flange after a few heat cycles.
Click to expand...

That thought crossed my mind, and my propane torches won't get that job done. If i can get my hands on a rosebud oxy/acetylene I'll do that
 
Maybe a dumb question, maybe not, but are the engines mounts to k member fully tightened down? Headers torqued down? Using Remflex gaskets as I recall?

Just checking.
 
I bought the black lokar throttle cable xtc-1000ht and wanted to use it with the stock pedal, and an aftermarket throttle cable bracket.

I had the stock cable and parts, so i adapted the shit to work together.

Heres the stock firewall piece, and the bushing that hooks to the pedal

20230730_095924.jpg

I cut the cable, keeping the green bushing.

Then i cut the rubber/steel sleeve off the other side leaving me with just the firewall piece.

20230730_095851.jpg

I ended up cutting both ends down on that piece, then drilled it out to 5/16" so the lokar sleeve would fit right in there.

20230819_091150.jpg

The clevis pin they send in the kit works with their pedal, but not the stock one. Unless you hot glue the clevis on there or something, but i just took the clevis off their cable, and fed their cable through my new setup.

20230819_091348.jpg

Looks like it'll work great once i get the throttle bracket bolted on. I bought some chinazon throttle bracket for $24 or some shit. Hopefully it works fine.

20230819_141855.jpg
 
I have that same Ryanstar throttle bracket and it has worked out just fine. The $90 Lokar cable broke before the car ever left the garage, I had to Re-engineer the cable like you.

$24 china part = good
$90 Lokar part = not so good
 
89 Fox 351 said:
I bought the black lokar throttle cable xtc-1000ht and wanted to use it with the stock pedal, and an aftermarket throttle cable bracket.

I had the stock cable and parts, so i adapted the shit to work together.

Heres the stock firewall piece, and the bushing that hooks to the pedal

View attachment 28887

I cut the cable, keeping the green bushing.

Then i cut the rubber/steel sleeve off the other side leaving me with just the firewall piece.

View attachment 28888

I ended up cutting both ends down on that piece, then drilled it out to 5/16" so the lokar sleeve would fit right in there.

View attachment 28889

The clevis pin they send in the kit works with their pedal, but not the stock one. Unless you hot glue the clevis on there or something, but i just took the clevis off their cable, and fed their cable through my new setup.

View attachment 28890

Looks like it'll work great once i get the throttle bracket bolted on. I bought some chinazon throttle bracket for $24 or some shit. Hopefully it works fine.

View attachment 28891
Click to expand...
Remember what I said about that plastic bushing. I would pull the cable back out. Then slide a small machine washer over the cable down to the cable ball.

If you don’t m, when you mash the throttle enough times that ball WILL pull through that plastic bushing.
 
Patriot Racer said:
Remember what I said about that plastic bushing. I would pull the cable back out. Then slide a small machine washer over the cable down to the cable ball.

If you don’t m, when you mash the throttle enough times that ball WILL pull through that plastic bushing.
Click to expand...

Yes it will, at the very worst time.
 
Patriot Racer said:
Remember what I said about that plastic bushing. I would pull the cable back out. Then slide a small machine washer over the cable down to the cable ball.

If you don’t m, when you mash the throttle enough times that ball WILL pull through that plastic bushing.
Click to expand...

Ohhhh that's what you were talking about 🤣
 
Throttle bracket installed. Since im kind of a whore about neat looking wiring under the hood, i decided to use the underside of the throttle bracket to tuck some wires. I used 5/16 eye bolts and fiberglass heat sleeve to run a few wires.
20230825_160538.jpg

I also installed 4AN line for my oil pressure gauge instead of dicking with that plastic tubing that will dry rot. I was going to run copper lines but was advised not to do that either

20230825_160552.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top