Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Speaking of complicated...

After tightening a brake fitting, can it be loosened and retightened or does that increase the chance of a leak. I had to disassemble a few things today and just wondering
 
Speaking of complicated...

After tightening a brake fitting, can it be loosened and retightened or does that increase the chance of a leak. I had to disassemble a few things today and just wondering
You will be fine, just put loctite on the threads. Red preferably.
 
So it appears a 3 inch cowl hood will not clear anything. I wonder if my engine sits higher than other guys with all the random parts ive mashed together. Granted the k&n filter is huge, but even the thin edelbrock won't work.

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None of the panels are locked down or aligned yet, but managed to get them stuck on there to make it look like a car again.




Next up, rear shock crossbar and getting the shocks finally mounted. With my viking c209 i made fixtures with square tubing to match the 13-3/8 compressed height of my shocks


 
So it appears a 3 inch cowl hood will not clear anything. I wonder if my engine sits higher than other guys with all the random parts ive mashed together. Granted the k&n filter is huge, but even the thin edelbrock won't work.

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Get a drop base for the air filter and it'll bring it down a couple of inches.
 
Get a drop base for the air filter and it'll bring it down a couple of inches.

I was concerned about clearance of electric choke and throttle linkage. But those parts are cheaper than an $800 hood plus freight, paint, and headaches
 
If you want to go with a 5" cowl, I highly recommend this guy. He did my hood and bumper, great old fashion craftsmanship and better than Harwood.
www.fiberboy.com
Also a lot cheaper too. Shipping was $125/150 up to PA.
 
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If you want to go with a 5" cowl, I highly recommend this guy. He did my hood and bumper, great old fashion craftsmanship and better than Harwood.
www.fiberboy.com
Also a lot cheaper too. Shipping was $125/150 up to PA.

Damn that's a good price. Id much prefer a 4in cowl, 5 starts to look too racecar for me but i may have to
 
Had to make some upper shock mount tabs. Always a good time.

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I have a bit more chassis work so i can't paint or completely assemble it yet.

Today i need to clean up the hatch area because my cuts weren't straight or pretty, weld up some frame reinforcement where the mini tubs were cut out, get it cleaned and primed.

I should probably weld in the ARB while I'm back there, but I'm having an issue with one of the bearing cups being stiff and UPR won't warranty it since it's about 13 years old but NIB. I won't need the ARB for a while so I'll jump on that next winter or something
 
Frame stiffener, probably not needed, but why not. There was a lot of material missing back there when i cut for the mini tub

It'll also give me a nice spot to weld in mounts for a fuel cell. Then if need be i can drop the tank from the bottom of the car

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Springs are temporarily installed and the car is down on 4 springs for the first time this decade.

Now i can attempt to get fuel cell mounts made and installed, and make a panel to close up the hatch
 
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