Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Driver side rear quarter interior panel is trimmed and fitted around the mini tub.

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Wiring should be all good behind there, I rewired everything with a Ron Francis kit, and a few items I had to add and make my own. Tomorrow I'll work on passenger panel. Much more difficult because the battery, alternator, and negative fat fuckin cables run over there. Biggest issue, I don't have a ground cable yet.
 
Amateur tip when installing your rear end.

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If you have double adjustable upper and lower control arms this is a breeze. If they are single adjustable, sell them.

Use your upper control arms to center the housing left to right. For instance, if you lengthen driver side, while shortening passenger side, it'll move the rear end to the right (passenger side).

You also use the upper control arms to adjust pinion angle as well. This is done by lengthening or shortening together. Lengthening both sides will push the pinion up, shortening will pull the pinion down.

Use lower control arms to center the wheels in the wheel well. Lengthen to move wheel rearward, shorten to move it forward.

A final alignment may be necessary to adjust thrust angle but that shit is a long ways out for me!
 
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Amateur tip when installing your rear end.

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If you have double adjustable upper and lower control arms this is a breeze. If they are single adjustable, sell them.

Use your upper control arms to center the housing left to right. For instance, if you lengthen driver side, while shortening passenger side, it'll move the rear end to the right (passenger side).

You also use the upper control arms to adjust pinion angle as well. This is done by lengthening or shortening together. Lengthening both sides will push the pinion up, shortening will pull the pinion down.

Use lower control arms to center the wheels in the wheel well. Lengthen to move wheel rearward, shorten to move it forward.

A final assignment may be necessary to adjust thrust angle but that shit is a long ways out for me!
If everything is in the right spot, I prefer single adjustable. They don't change adjustment under a torsional load like the double adjustable. When the suspension articulates, it can apply enough torque to overcome the locking nuts on the control arms.
 
If everything is in the right spot, I prefer single adjustable. They don't change adjustment under a torsional load like the double adjustable. When the suspension articulates, it can apply enough torque to overcome the locking nuts on the control arms.
Dude it's a Ford with a Ford engine.. I'll be ok this time around!
 
Car show height?
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Not quite enough header clearance for a pot hole though! Or soda can...

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In really impressed with these mac headers I bought over a decade ago. Clearance everywhere thank God!

Passenger frame rail
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Steering shaft (flaming river manual rack)
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The ONLY thing I have to clearance is the clutch fork. With the T56 Magnum and quick time 8031 bellhousing the fork is at 7pm.

It is BARELY touching.

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That's minor.... but... you do not have the engine and trans in the final position. That balancing act is yet to complete...
 
Good!!! What was the trip up?

My burning desire to have the crank angle be zero and fighting the solid motor mounts.

Took the advice of other members. Went to o'Reilly and picked up convertible motor mounts. Then realized after putting transmission crossmember in that the zero degree crankshaft angle was idiotic. Once engine was bolted to transmission mount it was A FUCKING INCH from the trans tunnel. Im able to shim the trans up to about 1/4" from tunnel giving me a crank angle of about 3.5 degrees up in front

I felt like over the years I heard so many people complain about oil pan to k member or steering rack clearance that the front of the engine had to come down a fuck ton but that was not the case.

I just needed a breather and all was good
 
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