Foxy Green Foxbody Build

So if any foxbody mustang guys go with wilwood lo profile disc brakes in the rear, they suggest (and LMR also suggests) part number 330-9371 for the parking brake.

Well it's universal, and not really compatible with these cars as they come.

If you can weld, here's what I did.

The left is the piece that attaches to your ebrake handle. The right is the adjuster block that comes in the kit.
20221213_170113.jpg

I cut the bends off the adjuster block and smacked it with a hammer to close the gap, then welded it to the stock piece from the car.

20221213_182728.jpg

Then cut the ends off so it was presentable and not looking like a dick and balls.

20221213_183424.jpg
 
So if any foxbody mustang guys go with wilwood lo profile disc brakes in the rear, they suggest (and LMR also suggests) part number 330-9371 for the parking brake.

Well it's universal, and not really compatible with these cars as they come.

If you can weld, here's what I did.

The left is the piece that attaches to your ebrake handle. The right is the adjuster block that comes in the kit.
View attachment 28700

I cut the bends off the adjuster block and smacked it with a hammer to close the gap, then welded it to the stock piece from the car.

View attachment 28701

Then cut the ends off so it was presentable and not looking like a dick and balls.

View attachment 28702
Maybe it's just the picture, but it doesn't look like you have a lot of penetration on that weld.
 
When I cut the end of the weld off it looked good. Minus the cutoff wheel marks I put in there
 
Needed to get the bellhousing indicated to be within spec for the t56 magnum. They call for .005" maximum. My initial runout was roughly .011". I bought .007"offset dowels from summit to correct this.

This should not have taken me 2 hours, but it did. Number one, by yourself is a real mother fucker. I was chasing numbers. If north and south was within spec, east and west wasn't. Rotating the dowels would fix east/west and screw up north/south.

Amateur tip:

You "could" file your bellhousing to cheat it if you really need to. I hate that idea.. However, what I finally realized is that with these small offset dowels, you have enough play to just rotate one dowel and still be able to get the bellhousing in place. I was rotating both and fighting myself.

End of the day, I'm within .002"

All for nothing really, because I have to pull the bell off when clutch arrives and it may throw it off a bit and I'll have to readjust.

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When switching to disc brakes you have to modify the parking brake handle. I thought maybe because of the design of the wilwood with internal parking brake (140-11387) I wouldn't have to.

Main reason is the stock parking brake is self adjusting. The spring mechanism in the handle doesn't have enough tension to work with this kit.
There are several videos that show the procedure, though I did mine slightly different because I already mounted my adjuster under the car and didn't have enough cable to do it the way they described. I had to weld the pawl further up the ratchet assembly. The good thing about doing it my way is I didn't have to do any cutting, and the lever will still sit flush when released

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Little bit of rustoleum satin black on the underside. Hit it with the wire cup brush first, then 320 grit, cleaned the area with isopropyl 91%, then rolled on the enamel. Foam brush in the hard to reach areas.

Amateur tip with the foam brush is to dab, don't use strokes. Much better outcome. Also another amateur tip, wear long sleeves and gloves, a hat, and a respirator. If you happen to get the enamel on your skin, use vegetable oil to remove it. Soap, alcohol, didn't work, oil did.

20221218_162646.jpg
 
Little bit of rustoleum satin black on the underside. Hit it with the wire cup brush first, then 320 grit, cleaned the area with isopropyl 91%, then rolled on the enamel. Foam brush in the hard to reach areas.

Amateur tip with the foam brush is to dab, don't use strokes. Much better outcome. Also another amateur tip, wear long sleeves and gloves, a hat, and a respirator. If you happen to get the enamel on your skin, use vegetable oil to remove it. Soap, alcohol, didn't work, oil did.

View attachment 28708
Tyvek suit is cheap, get a full face respirator, and a box of nitrile gloves. Keeps stuff off you, and keeps dust on your clothes from entering the paint. When it's time to put a normal color on it, you will need to do it. Maybe GM WA9792 indigo blue? These are some fenders I sprayed for another fox body. Not wet sanded and buffed yetin the pics, looked better after that(did the whole car in one shot after bolting everything back on).



 
Little bit of rustoleum satin black on the underside. Hit it with the wire cup brush first, then 320 grit, cleaned the area with isopropyl 91%, then rolled on the enamel. Foam brush in the hard to reach areas.

Amateur tip with the foam brush is to dab, don't use strokes. Much better outcome. Also another amateur tip, wear long sleeves and gloves, a hat, and a respirator. If you happen to get the enamel on your skin, use vegetable oil to remove it. Soap, alcohol, didn't work, oil did.

View attachment 28708
Dude, that looks awesome, nicely done sir........
 
Mounting the bellhousing and im off about .008" again. Fuckers!
 
Get it squared up, and make sure the transmission slides into the clutch and pilot bearing. I'm hoping you tried the disc on the transmission splines before you put it in. Make sure you torque everything to spec.
 
Bellhousing back within .003" total. It's a real bitch to get the dial indicator to stick to the fingers on the pressure plate and be sturdy enough. Gotterdone though!

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Does the transmission slide into the clutch?
 
Does the transmission slide into the clutch?

No idea. I have zero friends and no equipment to test that. I am not dissembling to find out, I'll find out when I get someone here to assist in a few days
 
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