Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 427 said:
The good news is she's truly acting normal right now, aside from the feeding situation.

She has had severe food aversion for a few weeks. Recently she started eating kibble again which is a miracle, but only out of my hand. Few pieces at a time, every few hours. Getting about half her required calories.

She's very alert, still initiating play time, standing at the counter when I'm cooking and eating. Wants to go on walks and take rides.

The internal medicine specialist is leaning heavily toward copper storage disease. Bad news about that, pills for life, and a special diet. The pills cause food aversion and nausea, and low copper prescription diet isn't cheap and most dogs won't eat that bland shit.
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Mr. Breeze said:
Put em in the holes fucker!

Bet you get some actual oil up top this time too.
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The oil feed hole in his new lifters has a "notch" connected to the oil band whereas his originals didn't so I think he will see lots more oil up top also. I'm having a hard time believing 3 thou clearance caused all his issues but I've been wrong before
 

Role of Zinc in Copper Absorption​

Zinc plays a crucial role in managing copper levels in dogs, particularly for those with copper storage disease. It helps reduce the absorption of copper in the digestive tract, which can be beneficial for dogs that are prone to copper accumulation in the liver.

Benefits of Zinc​

  • Reduces Copper Absorption: Zinc competes with copper for absorption in the intestines, helping to lower copper levels in the body.
  • Supports Liver Health: By managing copper levels, zinc can help prevent liver damage associated with copper storage disease.

Important Considerations​

While zinc is beneficial, it is essential to manage its intake carefully:
  • Excessive Zinc Risks: Too much zinc can be harmful and may lead to copper deficiency. This can disrupt the balance of essential minerals in the body.
  • Veterinary Guidance: Always consult a veterinarian before adding zinc supplements to your dog's diet, especially if they are undergoing treatment for copper storage disease.

Recommended Management​

For dogs diagnosed with copper storage disease, a balanced approach to zinc and copper intake is vital. Here’s a summary of dietary management:
NutrientRecommended Action
ZincConsult vet for appropriate dosage
CopperMaintain a low-copper diet
In conclusion, while zinc can effectively counteract copper absorption, it is crucial to ensure that its levels are monitored and adjusted under veterinary supervision to avoid potential health issues.
petmd.com Cornell University
 
Yoyodyne said:
How did you do the measurements? Are we sure it's correct?
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Well.. I'm pretty sure I'm sure. But I guess not competely sure.

I tried the snap gauge but it turns out I fuckin hate those, because as I'm trying to tighten it, it moves and fucks up my measurements.

So I zeroed out the bore gauge to .9000

Stuck it in the hole and subtracted what was left.

Then to double check, I zeroed the bore gauge at .8760 and did the same test.

Results were identical

I was scared to use tapered gauges for fear of dropping them into the oil pan.

This weekend I'll try to perfect the snap gauge method and see what that measures
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Results were identical
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Excellent, that gives us confidence.

89 Fox 427 said:
I tried the snap gauge but it turns out I fuckin hate those, because as I'm trying to tighten it, it moves and fucks up my measurements.
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89 Fox 427 said:
This weekend I'll try to perfect the snap gauge method and see what that measures
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See if you can find a video on how to use those. You don't stick it in the hole then tighten it. You angle it slightly in the hole, snug it, then rock it perpendicular to the hole and slightly past perpendicular, that pushes it back together slightly and then you withdraw it from the hole and measure it at that length with the mic. Without pushing it together smaller with the mic. Takes a lot of 'feel' both in the hole and with the mic, even experienced machinists usually do it several times to be sure they have it correct and have the max diameter of the hole. Don't feel bad if it doesn't fall into place right away. Or at all. It's really easy to fuck it up and get bad readings.
 
When I use a snap gauge , I don’t know if this is the correct way or not but it’s the way I was shown. I put it in at an angle and tighten the screw handle , then I rock it past straight up and withdraw it and measure . I find that it’s easier if the bore is lightly oiled also. I don’t rock it back and forth, just bring it past straight up and take it out and measure. I’ve never tried to see if it’s accurate to tenths. You have the same luck with this build as I do with my stuff . I’m not joking either.
 
70 tp said:
When I use a snap gauge , I don’t know if this is the correct way or not but it’s the way I was shown. I put it in at an angle and tighten the screw handle , then I rock it past straight up and withdraw it and measure . I find that it’s easier if the bore is lightly oiled also. I don’t rock it back and forth, just bring it past straight up and take it out and measure. I’ve never tried to see if it’s accurate to tenths. You have the same luck with this build as I do with my stuff . I’m not joking either.
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That's exactly right. You described it better.
 
Almost fell over when I saw this one- Foxy-


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Currently setting lash. For you Hydraulic guys:

Is zero lash when it has resistance to spin, or when there's no up and down motion?

I was previously using the spin method, but felt it was inaccurate this time around.

Zero lash is a measurement, not a feeling, so I would think no up and down means zero lash, and spin resistance is a bit subjective
 
You are overthinking it, as usual.

You will find that you can spin the pushrod quite a bit while running them down past zero lash. It is a feel thing.

In your case, I would run them down to no up and down movement, go from there. Best to be on the loose side a bit in my opinion.

Almost guaranteed when you start it you will freak out because you have some noise, like what happens to everyone else in the world, find the noise makers and run them in a bit till they shut up.
 
No movement is 0 lash.

You hafta get a little aggressive on checking that as you CAN get the rocker in a goofy place that has no movement but the rocker is slightly “ cocked” for lack of a better term. This is where noisy comes from.

EOIC. WRITE THIS IN YOUR BRAIN

Exhaust starts to open, set the intake.

Intake starts to close, set the exhaust

Not really necessary to set hydraulic’s that way other than to make sure you can’t push a valve into the piston if the engine is in a certain spot & bend it.

EOIC means you can’t hurt anything as the valve you are setting is on the absolute base circle of the lobe & the piston is nowhere around tdc.
 
This fucking website is as useless as a rustoleum hammertone painted rear end.

Constant database and loading issues.
 
Well as you would expect, I went overkill, set my dial indicator on the rocker, moved pushrod up and down until there was no more movement on the indicator.

EOIC this time around.

Every other time, I've used the TDC method.
 
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