Foxy Green Foxbody Build

If freezing it doesn't work (and it doesn't get stuck in the lifter bore!) you could try sanding it as mentioned by somebody above.

I had to bring a part down a thou or two and did the "chuck it in a drill and place a strip of sandpaper against it" deal and it worked out pretty well.
I think I started with 220 and finished with 400.
Move up and down the strip and measure a lot as you go...
 
If freezing it doesn't work (and it doesn't get stuck in the lifter bore!) you could try sanding it as mentioned by somebody above.

I had to bring a part down a thou or two and did the "chuck it in a drill and place a strip of sandpaper against it" deal and it worked out pretty well.
I think I started with 220 and finished with 400.
Move up and down the strip and measure a lot as you go...

LOL, I doubt you're going to chuck a 7/8 piece in a drill...

Wrap the sandpiper around it and do the best you can!
 
Well, that'll just work if you can keep it cold before you check.

You'd better just stick the tip in and get it out fast before it warms up!

(Yes, that's what she said)
 
Well, that'll just work if you can keep it cold before you check.

You'd better just stick the tip in and get it out fast before it warms up!

(Yes, that's what she said)

By the time I get it down there and lubed up it didn't fit. Was about .87535 by then
 
There is freeze spray you might try.

I have a Loctite one, just google "bolt freeze spray" and you'll see several.

It also might be helpful if the rod does get stuck.
 
Well, that'll just work if you can keep it cold before you check.

You'd better just stick the tip in and get it out fast before it warms up!

(Yes, that's what she said)
Don't do it!!! I'd bet a lot of money you'll get it stuck then have to pull the engine and drive it up out of the hole after pulling the cam.

Unless of course you weld a knob on top that you can attach a big slide hammer to that's strong enough to not break off while hammering on it. ( yeah there's always a good way to do a bad thing)
 
Repeat - Don't try putting that pin in the hole while it's cold enough to fit. As soon as it makes good circumferential contact the iron block will transfer warmth into the pin and it will grow quickly and stick tight in the bore. It will take about 1.5 seconds. I do shrink fits frequently, frozen part into a warm part, you can watch the frost on the cold part disappear and watch it get tight in a flash. Think you are pissed now? Just wait till you have a solid steel pin frozen tight in a lifter bore and can't get it out without big tools and major disassembly. Even if it doesn't damage the block. We don't yet know the real size of the bore and how much interference fit it would be, could possibly be enough to crack somewhere.
Just don't!
 
Repeat - Don't try putting that pin in the hole while it's cold enough to fit. As soon as it makes good circumferential contact the iron block will transfer warmth into the pin and it will grow quickly and stick tight in the bore. It will take about 1.5 seconds. I do shrink fits frequently, frozen part into a warm part, you can watch the frost on the cold part disappear and watch it get tight in a flash. Think you are pissed now? Just wait till you have a solid steel pin frozen tight in a lifter bore and can't get it out without big tools and major disassembly. Even if it doesn't damage the block. We don't yet know the real size of the bore and how much interference fit it would be, could possibly be enough to crack somewhere.
Just don't!

Who's idea was the dowel pin? :ROFLMAO: What were the chances that a dowel pin that big was going to be precision machined to an exact size. Some chinese guy on a Friday afternoon said "close enough".
 
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Now, I totally understand why this has taken 20+ years.

The engines are not directly his fault but in a way it is for trusting the wrong people. Didn't someone that knows better tell him to not go with that engine builder for the new shortblock? Yet he did.
 
As you would have expected.. my dowel arrived out of spec.

.8750 (-0, +.0002)

.8756 is what I received even though the maximum was supposed to be .8752"
Unreal, sorry if I steered you wrong. Out of the thousands of dowel pins i have here, I would bet not single one is out of spec.
 
That was my idea, do you even own a micrometer weirdo?

I'm a weirdo if i don't own a micrometer? :ROFLMAO:

My engines all run hard and i haven't even used one, sorry to let you down but my LS 's have never needed micrometers, GM did it for us. You weirdos think you need to go on a 20 year building spree with an entire Mitutoyo collection for only 600hp. A good heads/cam sbe 6.0 is 600hp. I tried to tell Fox that and he put me on ignore. I'm just entertaining myself at this point. Not that i don't feel bad for him that he pays good money and gets fucked over by weirdos.
 
The engines are not directly his fault but in a way it is for trusting the wrong people. Didn't someone that knows better tell him to not go with that engine builder for the new shortblock? Yet he did.
I was just busting his balls. He knows that. We talk a lot.
 
Not everybody is interested in reassembling worn out shit from a junkyard, and it especially has nothing to do with this thread.

They're not worn out shit. They are race engines detuned by GM and thrown in trucks vans and cars. GM still sells the brand new crate LS3 for $7k. 600hp with a cam/intake swap and tune. Or if you want to party like GPI did throw your small bore LS7 heads/CID intake and big solid roller in one (still SBE GM crate engine) and make 800hp and run the et's to back it up

Yes it has nothing to do with this thread, back to Fox trying to freeze his precision lifter bore sizing tool.. a dowel pin that some dude named Zhang Wei; 王伟 made for $0.0021 :ROFLMAO:
 
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