Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Should be good on bore.
Is oil band into oil galley properly.
Might need to grind a slot from oil feed hole to oil band on lifter body.
 
There's metal in the head. Ferrous metal. That's the end of this saga. I'll let you know what I find in a few weeks when I tear it back down or sell it. Honestly not sure yet.

21 years I've put into this car and it just can't be this difficult. If there's a God, he does not want me in this car.

If it's a failed lifter, it's going in someone's ass. Who wants a suppository.
 
Could be valvetrain debris?
Filter was clean?
You may see it if you pull rockers and pushrods for inspection.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
There's metal in the head. Ferrous metal. That's the end of this saga. I'll let you know what I find in a few weeks when I tear it back down or sell it. Honestly not sure yet.

21 years I've put into this car and it just can't be this difficult. If there's a God, he does not want me in this car.

If it's a failed lifter, it's going in someone's ass. Who wants a suppository.
Click to expand...
will take all you got!

How much metal did you find? Time to pull all the rockers and see if something is worn. When you remove the polylocks you should see a flat surface facing up towards you. I have seen people put them in incorrectly and the rounded side is up, that is no good.
 
A little internet searching says the lifter bore clearance should be .0015 to .0018".

I need to investigate that as well.

Anyone know a cheap set of dial bore gauges that work for .875" bore, or want to sell theirs, or rent them to me for a fee
 
Setting valve lash (preload), a math post:

My lifters have .125" of internal travel.
I'm using 1.6 rockers.

In order to get the preload halfway within the travel of the lifter I would need .0625" of preload.

7/16-20 studs means every turn of the nut is .050". Since the rocker arm acts as a lever (1.6 ratio):

.050" x 1.6 = .080" for every full turn of the nut.

So since I want .0625"

# of turns on the nut = .0625/.080

Therefore, .78125 turns of the nut (just over 3/4 turn) or 281 degrees of rotation.

I'm distracting myself from the disaster with math. Hope yall are having fun out there
 
If you can't get your hands on a bore gauge just use a telescoping gauge.
They're not all that bad and they're cheap.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Setting valve lash (preload), a math post:

My lifters have .125" of internal travel.
I'm using 1.6 rockers.

In order to get the preload halfway within the travel of the lifter I would need .0625" of preload.

7/16-20 studs means every turn of the nut is .050". Since the rocker arm acts as a lever (1.6 ratio):

.050" x 1.6 = .080" for every full turn of the nut.

So since I want .0625"

# of turns on the nut = .0625/.080

Therefore, .78125 turns of the nut (just over 3/4 turn) or 281 degrees of rotation.

I'm distracting myself from the disaster with math. Hope yall are having fun out there
Click to expand...
Your not moving the nut 1.6 times,,
That is ratio from one side of fulcrum to the other.
 
Double check.
Load lifter at full lift,till full collapse, then back out nut and count turns till inner lifter part touches snap ring.
Half that is half preload.
 
AI has some insight on the lifter situation, and a potential source of the ticking.

With my spring pressures, it says I should use short travel lifters.

"In a standard travel lifter, the internal plunger has a significant amount of movement. At high rpm if the valvetrain momentarily loses stability the lifter tries to take up the slack, pumping up and holding the valve slightly open. Under high pressure, the oil inside the lifter can compress or bleed out slightly. With a long travel distance this squish effectively subtracts from your total valve lift and changes your actual duration. This may also cause a noisy valvetrain as the lifter recovers from the squish, with the plunger failing to recover making the engine run poorly as it heats up"
 
Shit, I can't even read that.
Windows 11 sucks.
I'll go to my desktop.
 
safety device for car shows?
 
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