Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Glad to see you still have your (forced) sense of humor!
 
Horror Freight has some good stuff there, go get yourself their mechanics stethoscope, they work really good! You can safely listen to each rocker via the polylock and find who is making noise.
 
AI has some carburetor input. After telling it I have rich idle with my screws only 1 turn out, with my cam specs, and info about my carburetor having idle speed adjustment on the secondaries, here's what it said:

That is the perfect setup for a big-inch engine like a 427. Since you have mechanical secondaries with an idle adjustment, you have the "pro" way to fix this without changing parts yet.

The goal is to get your primary throttle blades closed enough to "hide" the transfer slot, which will force the engine to rely on the idle mixture screws rather than siphoning fuel from the slots.

The "4-Corner" or Secondary Air Trick

Close the Primaries: Back off your primary idle speed screw until the primary throttle blades are barely open (exposing just a "square" of the transfer slot).

Open the Secondaries: Turn the secondary idle adjustment screw in (clockwise) about 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This allows the engine to pull its "idle air" from the rear bores where there is no transfer slot fuel being pulled.

Balance the Idle: Use the secondary screw to set your 800 RPM idle speed.

Reset Mixture Screws: Now, turn your mixture screws out to 1.5 turns and see if the engine responds to adjustments.

Why this works
By shifting the air-gap to the secondaries, you "starve" the primary transfer slots of the air velocity they need to pull fuel. This effectively leans out the idle and puts the control back into the hands of your mixture screws.

If it’s still rich after shifting the air:

Idle Air Bleeds: Now you can confidently go up in size on your idle air bleeds. On a 427 with 13" of vacuum, the engine is "tugging" hard on the fuel circuit. Increasing the bleed size by .002" or .004" (e.g., going from a #70 to a #73) will lean the circuit out and let you open those mixture screws even further.
 
It's possible that I have a mental illness.

I had a moment before my helper is going to arrive this evening so I decided to alter the exhaust slightly.

Goodbye bullets. Hello baby ass turndowns

20260423-144946.jpg
 
Secondary air trick as stated is used for 2 corner idle mixture not 4 corner.
Do all 4 corners the same.
 
While looking at the rockers make a refrance at to how much each one moves to see if you had a cam lobe go south
 
Today's findings.

Cold start, no ticking, but noticed this thing takes FOREVER to get oil coming out of the rockers. I don't believe I'm exaggerating when I say 45 seconds to a minute to see oil, even though I'm seeing 60psi on the gauge at start up. Dart block has priority main oiling, but that seems like excessive amount of time.

Ticking started on cylinder 4, before the water temp was even registering (100° minimum). stethoscope on poly lock, you could hear it was definitely that cylinder. As time went on, each cylinder on that side began doing it. Cylinder 3. Then cylinder 2. Then cylinder 1. Leading me to believe oil weight might be the issue.

The dilemma. I don't recall hearing this problem with 10w30 break in oil last year. But i believe my bearing clearances are too large to run 10w30 (.0029 to .0035) and the guys I bought the shortblock from told me 10w40.

Most guys run thicker oil with those clearances
 
Oils cheap to find out .
But have seen where it take a long time to get oil to the top .
But think about the pressure your running at cruise 2 or 3 k rpm that alot of oil moving
 
Relevant???
Lifter not getting oil to pushrod feed?
Dart has mod recommend for solid lifters.
May apply here??
What is lifter bore clearance?
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Relevant???
Lifter not getting oil to pushrod feed?
Dart has mod recommend for solid lifters.
May apply here??
What is lifter bore clearance?
Click to expand...

I don't know as I wasn't smart enough to check when I built it
 
You could get better cold flow with 0-40 but playing around with viscosity at this point is mute.
You need to solve oil feed issue first.
I don't remember, cause you had issues choosing cam n lifters combo, but what part number lifter did you choose?
Did you end up using standard base circle cam?
 
Lifters are 89311-16

I don't know base circle of the cam.

Shafiroff says taking that long for oil to reach the top end is abnormally normal. Meaning it does take longer to get up there, but the combination of a tick, and the extended time frame, and the fact it works its way forward through the cylinders is strange.
 
He also said 20w50 would be if it's a solid, but with Hydraulic they recommend 10w40. He said Tighten lash to 1 full turn, and check again. If they're still noisy change to 10w30. If 10w30 solves it, I better pull it apart and figure out why because he says 10w30 is too thin 🤷‍♂️
 
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