Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 427 said:
The issues: my gas cap is not vented. I currently have my fuel cell vent ran to the filler neck. This is causing a pressure loop and not venting the tank. Thank God I found it now. I was wondering why my fuel pressure was up at 9 when I had it set at 6.5 before storage. I'll need to adjust that. For now I'm leaving the cap off and trying to source a proper vented one.

Next, I have a hard time ignoring the air fuel gauge. At cold start that fucker was pegged at 18, then bounced between 15 and 18 for a while. I shut it down after a few minutes of idling because something didn't seem right.

I started it back up after a few minutes and it sounded better. Gauge ended up settling down to 13.3 once warm. Still a bit fat, but I need to fuck with my vacuum advance and get the timing before I mess with carburetor otherwise I feel like it's just chasing your tail and redoing shit.
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That's actually not a bad place to be, it will idle much nicer there than it will at 14.7. 14.7 idle is for stock grocery getters and is usually too lean for something that has a carb and a decent camshaft, it'll be much happier in the 13s.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Today's endeavor. I got antsy and didn't follow good advice, but learned some things.

Car fired up and got it up to 180 degrees. Advanced the timing to 21 degrees base. Exhaust smoke and fumes were much better. 14 inches vacuum. Shut it down for 5 minutes. Went to start it back up to check hot start. Fired up immediately.

I did not hook up vacuum advance due to the vacuum line being seemingly welded to the carb. Will buy a T and plumb that in tomorrow.
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I hope you plan on doing a better hot start test than this ?
 
hq308 said:
That's actually not a bad place to be, it will idle much nicer there than it will at 14.7. 14.7 idle is for stock grocery getters and is usually too lean for something that has a carb and a decent camshaft, it'll be much happier in the 13s.
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My thought is that with as much air this cam pisses out the exhaust at idle the a/f should show leaner than that. The internet guys also mention a leaner idle helps the car start when hot because the fuel vaporizes instantly and contains more fuel vapors.
 
Have you changed your fuel diluted oil yet?
Read the plugs, an over rich idle can start to foul the plugs and the O2 will lie to you.
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Have you changed your fuel diluted oil yet?
Read the plugs, an over rich idle can start to foul the plugs and the O2 will lie to you.
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I need to figure out if this is a lifter going down before I do anything
 
I feel like this is a simple rocker adjustment. Rockers were adjusted cold after being pumped up with a drill. The car has been ran and driven now. To me the noise isn't even that bad. I get it, they are hydraulic and there is no hot/cold lash, but to rule it out, I would go through them again on that side.

I also think, either the lifter failed or it didn't. I'm guessing it didn't. Good luck.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
@Mark O'Neal how noisy are the comp evolution lifters, and are they uniformly noisy, or might some be louder than others. Seems like Cyl 3 or 4 are definitely louder than the others
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I haven't found them to be noisy. But they're never in stock, so I've only got 4 or 5 sets out there.
 
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I've set the valves 1/2 past zero lash. Again. Nothing seemed out of place. Going to button it up and start her again 🤷‍♂️
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Change the oil, the lifter will load back up.
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Tell me more about this please. Just trying to follow along with you. Oil does not smell like fuel at the moment. Car has 26 miles on it. 12 of them on the first oil change with break in oil. The next 14 miles have the 10w40.

The plugs look rich, but not wet. Lots of idle time on the car currently
 
Your over rich fuel fixture has certainly washed past the rings.
Destroying the film shear strength of your oil.
It doesn't take much fuel to do this.
The dynamics of the lifter are mostly constant as valve spring pressures are mostly constant, so you see cam lifter lobe wear quicker, than say a bearing that dynamics vary with load.
Hydraulic lifters are like the canary in the mine.
 
On new build, always make first couple oil changes frequent as you will have more wear in first 10,000 miles than the next 20,000 miles.
And open the filter for signs of excess wear.
 
I reset the lash. Started the car. The noise was gone.

Until water temp got up to about 110 degrees I noticed it. By 120 degrees it sounded as loud as yesterday.
 
I don't have any of my tools or parts to change oil here with the car. I believe I'm done fucking with it. I'll stick it on a trailer and get it into my garage and try and figure it out next week
 
On both of my SBC's when I set the lash (solid rollers) I set it .006 tighter than their required hot spec. When the engine gets up to temp, above 140*, if I shut it off and check it I will see that my .006 is gone. Stuff expands when it gets hot. Some people have problems with aluminum heads AND an aluminum block. They have to set the lash so damn tight that sometimes they have an issue starting them in really cold weather. Those guys have to warm the oil in the blocks otherwise they may not have enough cylinder pressure cold to even start the thing.

So, maybe you need to go a bit further on your lash adjustment..........
 
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