Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Ask it:

1) Whet RPM for "all in"

2) How to select the power valve

The first is my curiosity, the second is to try tripping it up.

EDIT: I'd also like to see what it thinks about ported or full vacuum to the can.
 
So, where are we at right now? Are we making a bushing out of a nut? Is a monkey fucking a football? Switching to E85, cause 93 is weak sauce?

Who sent the wrong bushing anyway? FBO Systems?
 
Steve439 said:
Ask it:

1) Whet RPM for "all in"

2) How to select the power valve

The first is my curiosity, the second is to try tripping it up.

EDIT: I'd also like to see what it thinks about ported or full vacuum to the can.
Click to expand...

Aim for 2800 RPM as a starting point. It says if it's a lighter car with steep gears you can potentially bring it in as early as 2500 RPM for better throttle response. If you experience pinging or detonation under load use heavier distributor springs to delay the total advance until 3000-3200 RPM.

For your second question

I'm using my computer translating to my phone, so this isn't word for word. But:

Hook vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum on fully warmed engine. Manual transmission measure in neutral at your target idle speed. Automatic transmission in gear with foot firmly on the brake. Divide vacuum reading by 2.

If engine bogs or hesitates during transition from cruise to acceleration it may need a power valve that opens sooner. If the engine runs rich or fouls plugs at light throttle you may need one that opens later
 
Patriot Racer said:
So, where are we at right now? Are we making a bushing out of a nut? Is a monkey fucking a football? Switching to E85, cause 93 is weak sauce?

Who sent the wrong bushing anyway? FBO Systems?
Click to expand...
MadHornet sent wrong bushings but they come in a Chinese labeled package. No one bothers to check.

I'm using the .410" aluminum bushing I have with the flats because I'm not concerned with total timing yet. I just need to get the timing, idle, and hot start where I like it and move on. Hook up distributor vacuum and see where it puts me, make adjustments if necessary.

One thing at a time before I over think step two before unfucking step one.
 
20260421-125931.jpg
 
I had 90 in it, so I put 100 in it to even it out. 93 will go in it once I get it trailered home
 
Today's endeavor. I got antsy and didn't follow good advice, but learned some things.

Car fired up and got it up to 180 degrees. Advanced the timing to 21 degrees base. Exhaust smoke and fumes were much better. 14 inches vacuum. Shut it down for 5 minutes. Went to start it back up to check hot start. Fired up immediately.

I did not hook up vacuum advance due to the vacuum line being seemingly welded to the carb. Will buy a T and plumb that in tomorrow.
 
The issues: my gas cap is not vented. I currently have my fuel cell vent ran to the filler neck. This is causing a pressure loop and not venting the tank. Thank God I found it now. I was wondering why my fuel pressure was up at 9 when I had it set at 6.5 before storage. I'll need to adjust that. For now I'm leaving the cap off and trying to source a proper vented one.

Next, I have a hard time ignoring the air fuel gauge. At cold start that fucker was pegged at 18, then bounced between 15 and 18 for a while. I shut it down after a few minutes of idling because something didn't seem right.

I started it back up after a few minutes and it sounded better. Gauge ended up settling down to 13.3 once warm. Still a bit fat, but I need to fuck with my vacuum advance and get the timing before I mess with carburetor otherwise I feel like it's just chasing your tail and redoing shit.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
You're hilarious. You totally missed my point by assuming it's a me thing. I actually don't know why anybody would ever help you, you're a fuckin goof.
By the way asshole, several others can go off topic including yourself but thats ok, as long as it's not me. 🙄
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Calm down Karen. Not all of us are short sighted


Lol
 
Definitely some serious ticking on passenger side. Going to pull a valve cover and check the poly locks and pray
 
SteveTX said:
I ran a fraction over 11 on a aluminum headed small block pump gas no problem eons ago but I am sure there were/are limits. They also use to say 8:1 was where it was at for a blower. I don’t know anyone who runs that low compression slug anymore. Carburetor or FI. Times have changed just like the fuel.
Click to expand...
These words are facts! Lol.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Definitely some serious ticking on passenger side. Going to pull a valve cover and check the poly locks and pray
Click to expand...
Stop. Do not try to fuck around with tuning. If you hear a tick mechanical type sound, stop- investigate and verify. Pull valve cover and roll the motor over and measure rocker lash.....


Im putting my foot down on glitter flakes in the oil filter.



Stop trying to tune if your hearing a mechanical tick noise that is not normal.
 
I'm smiling knowing what a stupid built 12 valve Cummins with big fuel and big air delivers at *38 timing delivers.........

Pissed. Off.



Lol.
 
@Mark O'Neal how noisy are the comp evolution lifters, and are they uniformly noisy, or might some be louder than others. Seems like Cyl 3 or 4 are definitely louder than the others
 
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