Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 427 said:
Maybe, but not likely with this turd. And what I mean by that is this car will likely just break tires loose during the tests and make counting seconds between 1000 rpm stretches inaccurate.
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Well than, find a place to go fast enough or put a shit-ton of weight in the trunk, get a grip.

You don't need to count seconds, the phone records the peak acceleration G. Shop around and find a good accelerometer app, they all do the same thing, some are free.

Jab it for 1000 RPM and take notes, change the timing and jab it again, take more notes, different RPM range, take more notes. Pretty soon you will see the desired best timing and if it wants a curve or not. A chassis dyno would be too easy, but if you have a safe place on the street ...
 
itey said:
Well than, find a place to go fast enough or put a shit-ton of weight in the trunk, get a grip.

You don't need to count seconds, the phone records the peak acceleration G. Shop around and find a good accelerometer app, they all do the same thing, some are free.

Jab it for 1000 RPM and take notes, change the timing and jab it again, take more notes, different RPM range, take more notes. Pretty soon you will see the desired best timing and if it wants a curve or not. A chassis dyno would be too easy, but if you have a safe place on the street ...
Click to expand...

Translation - don't be a pussy quit making excuses
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Maybe, but not likely with this turd. And what I mean by that is this car will likely just break tires loose during the tests and make counting seconds between 1000 rpm stretches inaccurate.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping to figure out where I can do runs in a gear where I can get traction.
I may be dreaming...

Why call your car/engine a "turd" or "junk" or whatever?
You spent good money on it and it should be a nice combination.
I think your motor/trans/differential are all pretty nice pieces.
 
Steve439 said:
I'm hoping to figure out where I can do runs in a gear where I can get traction.
I may be dreaming...

Why call your car/engine a "turd" or "junk" or whatever?
You spent good money on it and it should be a nice combination.
I think your motor/trans/differential are all pretty nice pieces.
Click to expand...

I'm just translating the 20 years of "you can't do that, that won't work, that's not streetable" into "turd" to keep it simple.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I'm just translating the 20 years of "you can't do that, that won't work, that's not streetable" into "turd" to keep it simple.
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Fuck that shit.
This is why I say I don't like people.
I actually do like a lot of people (especially here), but some people just feel the need to tell you you're wrong.
 
Ok I've got a whole winter to think about this, but I'm probably going to buy the MSD-6530 programmable 6al-2.

The only thing I notice with that, is it doesn't advance timing, it only retards it. Therefore I'd have to lock the timing out way higher (at whatever max timing I deem to be right during cruise). Then use a map sensor to retard timing during wide open throttle.

This would make the timing curve 3 dimensional, and reference both rpm and vacuum.
 
Though now I'm questioning if you can pull nearly 30 degrees of timing using that.. rotor phasing/ cross fire
 
PMs are nuts. Now we are back to seeing only 5 posts. It worked earlier today. WTF?

I see the 6530 is a "closeout" item now for $500, the map sensor is $160, and the adjustable rotor is $60. This is nuts. I didn't realize they went up that much since the last one I used a couple of years ago.
 
itey said:
PMs are nuts. Now we are back to seeing only 5 posts. It worked earlier today. WTF?

I see the 6530 is a "closeout" item now for $500, the map sensor is $160, and the adjustable rotor is $60. This is nuts. I didn't realize they went up that much since the last one I used a couple of years ago.
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For that price I would think about a Holley Term X and use it just for timing for now. Fuel later if EFI is ever wanted.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Exactly my point, when the fuck am I below 3400 rpm 😆🤣. That's why I made custom bushings but....
Lock the fucker out, nice stable timing 👍

But really you will be running lower rpm in cruise mode with the OD, mine has no OD with 4.10's and going to even lower gear. I know people have found gains and make a car more streetable with a good curve and having it "all in" much later than 3400. Big part of making a street engine last is the tune, no detonation and not being in peak torque rpm. That programmable box sounded good. I think Itey may be knowledgeable on timing curves iirc 🤔
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I bought custom bushings kit. Limits to like 10* advance if I remember right.
But….
Both streeter Buick and Chevelle both locked out. Buick 34* and Chevelle 35*
 
89 Fox 427 said:
My thought would be with vacuum advance pulled from manifold vac I wouldn't need a different bushing as it would advance the timing at idle and not have to deal with that.

Lots of ways to skin the cat here I think
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You’re saying use your vac advance to help idle?
With the bushings now available I think you should save it for cruise advance to not load up engine. Help keep it leaner and cleaner.
Both my distributors have no vacuum advance.
Buick needs one as it’s a cruiser. May drop msd and get another distributor from a Buick speed shop, TA Performance.
 
Another 10 miles on her today. Some concerning things.

Full throttle detonation in a second gear pull. High idle at stop lights like something is hanging blades open. Can't seem to get idle air fuel mixture to lean up enough. I'm now 1 turn out after engine is hot, still low 13s afr.

Here's some cruise info:

35mph, 1500rpm, 4th gear, 19"hg, 12.5afr

40mph, 1800rpm, 4th gear, 21"hg, 13.4afr

45mph, 2100rpm, 4th gear, 22"hg, 13.5afr
45mph, 5th gear, went high 16s afr shifted back to 4th

50mph, 1800rpm, 5th gear, 22"hg, 13.0 afr
 
Also checked header temps after the drive, while idling in the driveway.

Cyl 1 145*
Cyl 2 180*
Cyl 3 145*
Cyl 4 260*
Cyl 5 175*
Cyl 6 205*
Cyl 7 215*
Cyl 8 170"

Cylinder 4 concerns me. Plug looked ok, but hard to tell.
 
Checking header temps can vary using IR temp gun from what I've seen.
Went through the same thing chasing something that probably wasn't even there.
Get it on the main circuit and check again.
Ir gun will tell you what cylinder is dead more than if lean/rich.
Years ago, we would spray water on the tubes! 👴

Your results may vary.
 
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89 Fox 427 said:
Another 10 miles on her today. Some concerning things.

Full throttle detonation in a second gear pull. High idle at stop lights like something is hanging blades open. Can't seem to get idle air fuel mixture to lean up enough. I'm now 1 turn out after engine is hot, still low 13s afr.

Here's some cruise info:

35mph, 1500rpm, 4th gear, 19"hg, 12.5afr

40mph, 1800rpm, 4th gear, 21"hg, 13.4afr

45mph, 2100rpm, 4th gear, 22"hg, 13.5afr
45mph, 5th gear, went high 16s afr shifted back to 4th

50mph, 1800rpm, 5th gear, 22"hg, 13.0 afr
Click to expand...
Explain when the detonation happened, as in at high rpm, low, mid. What do you think your max timing is ? 34°?
Do you have a return spring on the throttle cable ?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Also checked header temps after the drive, while idling in the driveway.

Cyl 1 145*
Cyl 2 180*
Cyl 3 145*
Cyl 4 260*
Cyl 5 175*
Cyl 6 205*
Cyl 7 215*
Cyl 8 170"

Cylinder 4 concerns me. Plug looked ok, but hard to tell.
Click to expand...
Header temperature measured with a thermal pistol is influenced by under hood air flow. Cylinders at the front are closer to the fan, on the left are crowded by brakes and a steering box on some cars.
 
itey said:
Header temperature measured with a thermal pistol is influenced by under hood air flow. Cylinders at the front are closer to the fan, on the left are crowded by brakes and a steering box on some cars.
Click to expand...
The further away the more area it reads also. Hold it close to the header.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Explain when the detonation happened, as in at high rpm, low, mid. What do you think your max timing is ? 34°?
Do you have a return spring on the throttle cable ?
Click to expand...

Low/mid rpm, looks like I stomped it at 2000rpm up to 4000 in second gear. Heard rocks in a can. A/f dropped to 10.2, extremely rich obviously. I don't have anything connecting the vent tubes, don't know if fuel might be pissing over the top when I stomp on it.

@Badd_Dadd I took the #4 plug out. I tried fucking with the carb at idle before shutting it down so there was a little fuel on it, but otherwise it was a light tan and looked good. Wish I would have gotten a pic. Car is stored for the winter so this thread will be boring until April
 
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