Foxy Green Foxbody Build

The next issue would be 11" vacuum at idle, but 22" at 1800rpm cruise. My distributor needs 15 inches before it adds timing, so at idle it's worthless in my application. This if course is if I'm using manifold vs ported. I think I can swap the canister, but need more driving time to pay more attention to where my vacuum is, when it is, how it responds, etc.
You want to know what the vac is at idle with the can hooked up and pulling timing in. You should be able to find an adjustable can. Do you have a stock distibutor or aftermarket? I believe that adjustable cans have a hex shape snout and nonadjustable are round. You'd think aftermarket distibutors would have adjustable cans.
 
You want to know what the vac is at idle with the can hooked up and pulling timing in. You should be able to find an adjustable can. Do you have a stock distibutor or aftermarket? I believe that adjustable cans have a hex shape snout and nonadjustable are round. You'd think aftermarket distibutors would have adjustable cans.

Msd8478 distributor. No adjustment on it.

I've been searching for a while, I don't think the can I have is even removable
 
Give it as much initial timing as it will take without being hard to crank and adjust the mechanical advance to give the desired total timing. Bring the mechanical in as early as you can as long as it doesn't show any signs of detonation. An engine that makes it's HP/torque higher in the rpm range is fairly inefficient at lower rpm and will likely benefit from more timing at lower rpms.

Just my opinion based off my own experience, YMMV.
 
Give it as much initial timing as it will take without being hard to crank and adjust the mechanical advance to give the desired total timing. Bring the mechanical in as early as you can as long as it doesn't show any signs of detonation. An engine that makes it's HP/torque higher in the rpm range is fairly inefficient at lower rpm and will likely benefit from more timing at lower rpms.

Just my opinion based off my own experience, YMMV.

I can't with the bushings I have. As stated they sell other ones I could buy, but the right vacuum advance would solve more issues with no downside that I can see
 
I have the Crane can and I think it will work with my MSD but I can't say for sure.

I won't know until I get my car off the jackstands and actually start tuning.... :banana:
 
What do you guys retorque after a couple heat cycles?
 
What do you guys retorque after a couple heat cycles?
Header bolts I guess. Unless using copper head gaskets 🤢🤮 I don't re-torque anything ( the copper gaskets called for a re-torque in their directions ). PITA with canted valves! And still leak 🤣
 
I believe the cometic mls I have don't require it I'll have to double check
 
What do you guys retorque after a couple heat cycles?
header bolts is all I ever re-torque
I see you are trying to figure out your timing , what ever you do DO NOT lock the timing out.
I am not saying you mentioned doing it , but if you ever think about doing it don't , don't do it even if you buy the retarder for start up.
 
header bolts is all I ever re-torque
I see you are trying to figure out your timing , what ever you do DO NOT lock the timing out.
I am not saying you mentioned doing it , but if you ever think about doing it don't , don't do it even if you buy the retarder for start up.
Why?
I've been running mine locked out at 31° for years
 
header bolts is all I ever re-torque
I see you are trying to figure out your timing , what ever you do DO NOT lock the timing out.
I am not saying you mentioned doing it , but if you ever think about doing it don't , don't do it even if you buy the retarder for start up.

I'll tell you one thing I'm not grasping. If you have 16* at 800rpm, 32 degrees at 3000 rpm, and same 32* at 7000rpm, seems like it makes way more sense to get into laptop tuning to make it efficient everywhere inbetween 3 to 7k to really get the best numbers out of a run.
 
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