So the information came from Holley themselves, and it's wrong, and people just still blindly believe it? I just find it difficult to believe that actual carb builders could be posting about it on fb even recently.. you would think they would have learned right or wrong from actual real world testing
As i said before the last time i had carburetors on street/race cars was the late 90's .. so i have forgotten almost everything about tuning them other than my memory of the actual physical holley carburetors themselves, like removing the bowls to change jets etc. I also remember upgrading to a front 50cc accelerator pump on an 850 annular i had. With the front pv, i can't remember what i did
This info is everywhere ....
Step 2: Select the correct power valve
- Find the rule: A common starting point is to divide your idle vacuum reading by two to get the power valve rating (e.g., 13" Hg divided by 2 is 6.5" Hg, so you'd use a #65 power valve).
- Adjust for your needs:
- For better fuel economy: Use the number calculated above or choose a slightly higher rating to delay the power valve opening as long as possible.
- For a performance application: If you experience a hesitation or sag as you get on the throttle, choose a power valve with a lower vacuum rating to provide fuel sooner (e.g., use a #55 instead of a #65).
- To fix "loading up" at idle: For engines with aggressive cams that have low idle vacuum (e.g., below 12" Hg), you might need a lower-rated power valve. Some tuners recommend selecting a power valve with a rating closer to the idle vacuum, like a #45 or #35.
, fuck all to a carpenter, nail it !
