Foxy Green Foxbody Build

I have no idea about what's needed...
I assume steel, what thickness, and what do you need to cover and is it welded in or fastened?
 
Steve439 said:
I have no idea about what's needed...
I assume steel, what thickness, and what do you need to cover and is it welded in or fastened?
Click to expand...

Battery needs (2) 3/8 bolts.

Needs to be separated from driver compartment with .024" steel or .032" aluminum.

I believe the separation is due to hydrogen gases, not "flying battery", as that's what the 3/8 bolts are for
 
Steve439 said:
I have no idea about what's needed...
I assume steel, what thickness, and what do you need to cover and is it welded in or fastened?
Click to expand...

Battery needs (2) 3/8 bolts.

Needs to be separated from driver compartment with .024" steel or .032" aluminum.

I believe the separation is due to hydrogen gases, not "flying battery", as that's what the 3/8 bolts are for
 
Damn... that sounds like a lot of work!
It seems like a sealed battery box that's vented to the outside would be OK.
Well, I guess they know more than I do...
 
Steve439 said:
Damn... that sounds like a lot of work!
It seems like a sealed battery box that's vented to the outside would be OK.
Well, I guess they know more than I do...
Click to expand...

That's exactly what you could do.

I just think that's ugly and wood weighs too much
 
Sorry my brain wasn't telling the story I went through in my head when I was planning this.

If I went with a battery box that meets the rules, so I was going to build hatch boxes and seat delete out of 5mm plywood.

Then realized I can do a bulkhead instead

I'll need some fastener ideas. It'll be covered with oem style carpet. Something 1/4 turn would be ideal so I can remove the top vs hinges
 
You probably already know this, but the divider does not have to go all the way to the back as long as it goes up somewhere on the hatch and stops.
 
Patriot Racer said:
You probably already know this, but the divider does not have to go all the way to the back as long as it goes up somewhere on the hatch and stops.
Click to expand...

I replaced the hatch weatherstrip today and a lot of it was still good. I was only going to go up to the glass with a flat piece as a simple divider like a coupe, using the weatherstripping to seal it off to the glass. I didn't want to see the battery and junk through the back window, so here we are
 
You can’t see the battery or fuel cell through the window, but you would be able to access all of it with hatch open.

IMG-7912.jpg
 
No interior panels? Boooo. Surprised you have the cup holders though. Save weight
 
Patriot Racer said:
You can’t see the battery or fuel cell through the window, but you would be able to access all of it with hatch open.
Click to expand...

I don't want to make assumptions... do you have what I was talking about, a sealed battery box that's vented outside?
 
Steve439 said:
I don't want to make assumptions... do you have what I was talking about, a sealed battery box that's vented outside?
Click to expand...
Yes.

This guy. 🙄 Put the fucking panels in and work your divider around them. I have mini-tubs which is why the plastic panels aren’t in there. I didn’t want to dick with it because race car. 😝 Nothing to do with the rear bulkhead divider. It could be trimmed around them.
 
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I prefer to use chipboard instead of "normal" cardboard. The single layer stuff is far easier to cut and trim unlike multi layer cardboard which usually does not cut nicely.
 
I would assume my dead father did about 10 years ago
 
Gotta visit the sticker shop and have one of these made. Can't seem to find a master disconnect sticker that doesn't suck. Maybe this doesn't follow the rules

20250909_101231.jpg
 
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