Foxy Green Foxbody Build

I wouldn't mess around with any of that stuff.

Borrow a known good running carb, set the initial timing in the 10-15 range, put it in your car with distilled water, back it out in the driveway away from stuff, surround it with multiple fire extinguishers, and a blanket to throw over the carb, and fire it up.

I'm pretty sure you could get some PB buddies to drink beer, eat pizza, and help you out.
 
I'll kick in fifty bucks towards beer and pizza.

(Remind me if miss this for some reason)
 
Raidmagic said:
Why are you worried about a run stand? Throw it in the car and start it. You can borrow my 750 if you need it.
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It is such a pain in the ass to install and pull this engine. Everything is in the way. Headers on and off alone takes me a few hours.

This oil pan bullshit has me expecting a leak, trying to make sure there's no issues beforehand.
 
Se
89 Fox 427 said:
It is such a pain in the ass to install and pull this engine. Everything is in the way. Headers on and off alone takes me a few hours.

This oil pan bullshit has me expecting a leak, trying to make sure there's no issues beforehand.
Click to expand...
Send Me your carb and I’ll run it on one of the heaps I have around here
 
When I am dropping in the engine by myself I use mechanics wire to hold the headers out of the way but down inside the chassis so I can lower the engine in and not fight with the headers later. I can never bolt the trans to the engine and drop them in together, not in 3rd Gen F-Bodies. My cherry picker won't go high enough if I have the car up too high to give the trans room to tilt and swing under.
 
Mike Beck said:
When I am dropping in the engine by myself I use mechanics wire to hold the headers out of the way but down inside the chassis so I can lower the engine in and not fight with the headers later. I can never bolt the trans to the engine and drop them in together, not in 3rd Gen F-Bodies. My cherry picker won't go high enough if I have the car up too high to give the trans room to tilt and swing under.
Click to expand...

I have to do the trans and engine as one on the install. I've made several posts about the offset dowels and bellhousing not perfectly keeping the input shaft within spec. People want to argue about it, but I know what my situation is and has been. Also, the headers in the engine bay aren't the problem. It's the one single click of a wrench at a time trying to turn the header bolts. It's an absolute shit show. The new heads have 2 different patterns for header flange bolt up, w8de and narrow. I've debated welding new flanges on to make my life 1000% easier.

I made my own brake lines. If I could do it all over again, I would not have run them along the k member to hide them. Looks slick, but that means I can't drop the k member to do any engine work or to get the engine installed easier.

Those two things along would save me a full day AT LEAST when pulling the engine or dropping it back in.
 
Low & slow said:
Se
Send Me your carb and I’ll run it on one of the heaps I have around here
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Sorry man, it's a ford only carb.. I don't want to gay it up.

My only car friend has a 351w I can put it on, or I can put my 650 on to fire it up. That 650 seemed to be pretty dialed in with 30 less cubes
 
When I plumb brake lines I either run the passenger front line on the firewall, or at the radiator support.

I run a single line to the rear of the car and put a T up on the backside of the rear seat area on the driver side. From there I go over with hard line towards the wheels, then flex line from the chassis to the calipers. This way there are no brake lines on the rear to get crushed when someone helps you tie the car down for towing.

There are header bolts that have an allen head in them along with the typical hex head. Let's you use a 7/16 wrench/socket or an allen key. Then get the allen keys with the ball end that lets you get that bolt tightened from just about any angle.
 
Mike Beck said:
When I plumb brake lines I either run the passenger front line on the firewall, or at the radiator support.

I run a single line to the rear of the car and put a T up on the backside of the rear seat area on the driver side. From there I go over with hard line towards the wheels, then flex line from the chassis to the calipers. This way there are no brake lines on the rear to get crushed when someone helps you tie the car down for towing.

There are header bolts that have an allen head in them along with the typical hex head. Let's you use a 7/16 wrench/socket or an allen key. Then get the allen keys with the ball end that lets you get that bolt tightened from just about any angle.
Click to expand...

I have every bolt known to man. The primary is in the way, and a ball end still slips
 
I've got a few modified button head header bolts ,that I can only get at with a rounded 3/16" allen wrench. The rest are header bolts that I machined a 5/16" hex on.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Sorry man, it's a ford only carb.. I don't want to gay it up.

My only car friend has a 351w I can put it on, or I can put my 650 on to fire it up. That 650 seemed to be pretty dialed in with 30 less cubes
Click to expand...
Ford only huh ? So what your saying it doesn’t need to work then
 
Actually the two I have running may have a little more than half the power you have , one is my wife’s tire burner and the other is a jeep
 
Mike Beck said:
When I plumb brake lines I either run the passenger front line on the firewall, or at the radiator support.

I run a single line to the rear of the car and put a T up on the backside of the rear seat area on the driver side. From there I go over with hard line towards the wheels, then flex line from the chassis to the calipers. This way there are no brake lines on the rear to get crushed when someone helps you tie the car down for towing.

There are header bolts that have an allen head in them along with the typical hex head. Let's you use a 7/16 wrench/socket or an allen key. Then get the allen keys with the ball end that lets you get that bolt tightened from just about any angle.
Click to expand...
I had to use allen bolts on my A3 exhaust. Made a couple custom allen wrenches, lol and use the ball end style but there's one bolt that takes forever. Maybe I can get it from underneath better, no ffs, maybe from up top is best, mf'er 😡🤬, maybe on my side from underneath 😡😭

That was 1 3/4" headers, these 2" will be easier I assume 😆
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I have to do the trans and engine as one on the install. I've made several posts about the offset dowels and bellhousing not perfectly keeping the input shaft within spec. People want to argue about it, but I know what my situation is and has been. Also, the headers in the engine bay aren't the problem. It's the one single click of a wrench at a time trying to turn the header bolts. It's an absolute shit show. The new heads have 2 different patterns for header flange bolt up, w8de and narrow. I've debated welding new flanges on to make my life 1000% easier.

I made my own brake lines. If I could do it all over again, I would not have run them along the k member to hide them. Looks slick, but that means I can't drop the k member to do any engine work or to get the engine installed easier.

Those two things along would save me a full day AT LEAST when pulling the engine or dropping it back in.
Click to expand...
Can you not align yer bell then put the tranny in later?
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Can you not align yer bell then put the tranny in later?
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I made the crazy assumption that the trans bolt holes wouldn't get it perfectly centered with bell.

I have the low profile 12pt 5/16 head with Allen option. I have custom ground wrenches and sockets ground so thin they break. I have a cutoff Allen wrench too. It's a real fun time
 
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