Foxy Green Foxbody Build

Everything is yanked apart.

Block is at the machine shop.

Cylinder hone
Line hone/bore
Crank balance
Parts cleaning
Checking bearing clearances and ordering bearings

I will do all final assembly under the supervision of mitch and dickless
I will hug you right after I hug Mitch right after I hug Dom right after I hug Dickless.

Not trying to make it weird or anything.
 
If it turns out the line bore was wrong then I have to blame competition products for sending me a shit block. Technically I only paid the guy to assemble the pile of shit parts I brought him. It's also possible that the use of the "girdle" can stress the block and make the line bore off a bit when torqued down. Rare, but possible.

The other possibility is the crank laid on its side too long and it's bent.

All just speculation right now.
It's not that rare, if the block isn't checked for core shift before it's line bored and you bolt a girdle to it, shit will move around. Core shift isn't all that rare, I rejected 2 brand new from GM LS3 blocks for it over the last couple years. I'd skip the girdle for what you're doing. Everyone knows SBFs split down the lifter valley when they fail. Buick big blocks do the same thing.
 
If it turns out the line bore was wrong then I have to blame competition products for sending me a shit block. Technically I only paid the guy to assemble the pile of shit parts I brought him. It's also possible that the use of the "girdle" can stress the block and make the line bore off a bit when torqued down. Rare, but possible.

The other possibility is the crank laid on its side too long and it's bent.

All just speculation right now.

I’m not an engine builder but something like that should have been easy to catch. Good for you for staying in high spirits though u guess.
 
If it turns out the line bore was wrong then I have to blame competition products for sending me a shit block. Technically I only paid the guy to assemble the pile of shit parts I brought him. It's also possible that the use of the "girdle" can stress the block and make the line bore off a bit when torqued down. Rare, but possible.

The other possibility is the crank laid on its side too long and it's bent.

All just speculation right now.

There's a story about a famous crank builder that has a crank in his office supported on the ends and with a dial indicator on the middle.
It never changed over many years.
 
Your not making or spraying any kind of power to split a block so don't worry about that and your not pushing your engine every weekend to worry about other failures if you built it using the good parts
 
Real Good at Doing Stuff guy on YouTube talked about customers who bring in machined parts and say " just put it together" and the problems they encountered with that.

I never saw a problem with requesting that myself but I understand now about the issues.

In fact, the example they had was a Dart block with misaligned main caps. Fixed with a line hone and ground caps and said it would have failed otherwise.

Good info on that channel because the builder is pretty good behind the camera.
 
Haven't really said much of anything here, but have been watching all along from the back row. You're in good hands now Fox and looking forward to the updates.
 
If I'm ever out y'alls way I'm gonna have to meet some of you, freakin' REAL people (generally it is a little weird out here), I'd be honored to to call you friends.
No doubt Mitch is a stand up guy...besides several others here as well...and I'll finally get to meet him and shake his hand tomorrow
 
Special thanks to Mark D as well for keeping keep my pile of parts in his garage.

Actually I don't have Facebook, can someone verify a low mile, disassembled sbf isn't for sale in PA
 
Everything is yanked apart.

Block is at the machine shop.

Cylinder hone
Line hone/bore
Crank balance
Parts cleaning
Checking bearing clearances and ordering bearings

I will do all final assembly under the supervision of mitch and dickless
Why are you talking about yourself in the 3rd person?
 
When are expecting the block

I'd estimate 3 more weeks. Can't be sure, as this guy seems like he has a lot of stuff going on in his shop right now. Not to mention I'm sure he's not thrilled about trying to fix other people's fuck ups.
 
I'd estimate 3 more weeks. Can't be sure, as this guy seems like he has a lot of stuff going on in his shop right now. Not to mention I'm sure he's not thrilled about trying to fix other people's fuck ups.
The only thing he wouldn't be thrilled about is the lack of skill from the previous builder/s. Beyond that it's just making sure your parts are correct this time.

Have a machinist buddy and he has re-rebuilt many engines i brought which were fresh builds from other shops that were terrible out of the box. The things we have seen or caught (when they bring in their parts) is pretty amazing.
 
For anyone that cares.

Using moroso 20520 7qt rear sump oil pan. 7qts will put the oil perfectly level with the baffles.

Using moroso universal dipstick 25970 is inaccurate for oil level and the top of the tube must be cut. And by inaccurate, i mean oil doesn't even reach the dipstick.

For this combo, cutting 1-3/16 of an inch off the tube puts the "full" mark right in line with 7qts in the pan. Obviously once the oil has run through the filter and is distributed through the engine it won't show full, but this doesn't concern me.

20240723_144925.jpg
 
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