Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 351 said:
I don't trust the shoulder straps. They have to go upward slightly to get over the seat, then back down to the roll bar
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OK....."circling back".....man I hate the stupid "management speek"......but the belt orientation is very.....very bad!

Any downward angle on the belt could lead to spine crushing force in a head-on crash.......up over the top of the seat to the bar and now envision a straight line once your upper torso moves forward....bad!

And.......fill it with oil and drive it like you hate it.

🤙
 
I'm not sure what your latest question is asking but......




You're still a fucking homo!
 
CompNut said:
Why are you fucking with the plugs? You should be changing the oil, driving it awhile and then checking it again. How the plugs look at this point is irrelevant.
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He is not being messing with you @89 Fox 351. It is just solid advice. Take it. Take care. Tom Worthington
 
Tom396 said:
He is not being messing with you @89 Fox 351. It is just solid advice. Take it. Take care. Tom Worthington
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You know what pisses me off Tom, the LS nigger telling me to do something that was already fucking done.

The engine is fucked and needs to be torn apart.

The plugs coming out is part of that, and looking at them and trying to learn something while I'm getting beat down by this car is the only light in my tiny tunnel.

Getting beat down every fucking day gets old when these cock suckers don't know the half of it.

Those that talk shit to me while giving me knowledge I respect. Those that talk shit for their entertainment can get fucked.
 
OK, I "WAS" only following this part time since I am usually busy as fuck doing something, but starting today I am practicing a little for my upcoming two weeks of being restricted to the horizontal position.:mad: That means I have time to add my worthless .02.:chuckle:

As we already discussed on the phone, your air pump 100% needs to come apart. I understand what your thoughts are on spending more money on this engine when your long term goal is a bigger hammer. That said, I also think if you shove it in a corner until you get your life's work and residence location in order, it may never run again?

If you did get a big hammer for under the hood, the transmission AND rear end have to be replaced. Neither will tolerate 1000hp.

If it is your plan to not run the thing until it comes apart and gets diagnosed, I might have space down here for a while. I have every measuring device known to man, and more importantly, I have race car Ronnie. He will be able to tell exactly what happened, why it happened, and what it has to have moving forward. My end of this, including getting Ronnie to offer some advice, would cost you nothing. If the repair ends up being more than you want to spend at this time, at least you have the motor apart, and the knowledge of what it needs for the future. Might even be able to haul it for you if the timing is right......
 
89 Fox 351 said:
You know what pisses me off Tom, the LS nigger telling me to do something that was already fucking done.

The engine is fucked and needs to be torn apart.

The plugs coming out is part of that, and looking at them and trying to learn something while I'm getting beat down by this car is the only light in my tiny tunnel.

Getting beat down every fucking day gets old when these cock suckers don't know the half of it.

Those that talk shit to me while giving me knowledge I respect. Those that talk shit for their entertainment can get fucked.
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OK Fox (grasshopper) now that you have tried your best take Mitch (Mr Miyagi) up on his offer. Yes it is going to be a lot of work, time and effort but if you have access to Racecar Ronnie (engine master) you can get this resolved. IMO forget the bigger "hammer" and build a nice 500HP engine (motor).

You can street it and race it when you want a thrill. Bigger isn't always better. You are right there, a couple of bad events from your previous endeavor. Do it better this time with the right people.
 
89 Fox 351 said:
they are a NKG 5 is what the first builder stuck in there 15 years ago
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BKR5E
Future reference that is a medium heat range, resistor type plug.

If memory serves me, there are some aftermarket ignitions that do not like resistor plugs.
 
89 Fox 351 said:
I don't think any of these plugs look good, but I don't know shit


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I can't believe only 2 people have given you a straight answer to a real question. Those plugs are either a rich carb, cold plugs, or a carb engine idling a lot will load up plugs like that.
The porcelain should be tan to light tan with a carb. White is a little lean, tiny black specs on white is detonation.
First guy to tell me i'm stupid can go fuck a jack stand!
 
jeremy69 said:
I can't believe only 2 people have given you a straight answer to a real question. Those plugs are either a rich carb, cold plugs, or a carb engine idling a lot will load up plugs like that.
The porcelain should be tan to light tan with a carb. White is a little lean, tiny black specs on white is detonation.
First guy to tell me i'm stupid can go fuck a jack stand!
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Thank you. The engine did idle quite a bit. Carb, electric choke as well.
 
jeremy69 said:
I can't believe only 2 people have given you a straight answer to a real question. Those plugs are either a rich carb, cold plugs, or a carb engine idling a lot will load up plugs like that.
The porcelain should be tan to light tan with a carb. White is a little lean, tiny black specs on white is detonation.
First guy to tell me i'm stupid can go fuck a jack stand!
Click to expand...
You are not wrong, my friend. None of that plays a part in the glitter slushy where the engine oil used to be though.

When your car gets cut in half by a freight train, dented hub caps are not at the top of the list.
 
Mitch H said:
OK, I "WAS" only following this part time since I am usually busy as fuck doing something, but starting today I am practicing a little for my upcoming two weeks of being restricted to the horizontal position.:mad: That means I have time to add my worthless .02.:chuckle:

As we already discussed on the phone, your air pump 100% needs to come apart. I understand what your thoughts are on spending more money on this engine when your long term goal is a bigger hammer. That said, I also think if you shove it in a corner until you get your life's work and residence location in order, it may never run again?

If you did get a big hammer for under the hood, the transmission AND rear end have to be replaced. Neither will tolerate 1000hp.

If it is your plan to not run the thing until it comes apart and gets diagnosed, I might have space down here for a while. I have every measuring device known to man, and more importantly, I have race car Ronnie. He will be able to tell exactly what happened, why it happened, and what it has to have moving forward. My end of this, including getting Ronnie to offer some advice, would cost you nothing. If the repair ends up being more than you want to spend at this time, at least you have the motor apart, and the knowledge of what it needs for the future. Might even be able to haul it for you if the timing is right......
Click to expand...

Given the circumstances and timing of everything, I'll be loading the car up and taking it to wv next month sometime. I'll also be attempting to bring my tools down with it. When I can get that engine yanked out, if the offer still exists and i bring that engine up to you, I'd love to spend a few hours pulling it apart to learn wtf. If I could put it back together with my bare hands and some guidance, that would be even better.
 
Mitch H said:
You are not wrong, my friend. None of that plays a part in the glitter slushy where the engine oil used to be though.

When your car gets cut in half by a freight train, dented hub caps are not at the top of the list.
Click to expand...

I was asking for an answer about the plugs, regardless of the shimmering stripper oil situation. Just another opportunity to learn in the mean time
 
I suggest reading something like this while waiting:

81XkKJQvNQL._AC_UF350,350_QL50_.jpg
 
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