Foxy Green Foxbody Build

89 Fox 351 said:
Testing the harness. I'm sure I'm fuckin something up. Also didn't realize the lap belts need to be mounted to the frame. Wish I would have welded more shit in there. The factory mounting bolts might work for it though. Sub belt is goofy because I'm using the stock seat and there's no hole in the seat


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That's a cluster fuck!
Belts are useless.
Install them properly, with a race seat, PROPERLY, INSTALLED.
If the seat comes loose from mounting position, the belts will be slack and useless.
In that scenario of an accident, bad things happen.
 
Why would the seat come loose any differently than a race seat
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Why would the seat come loose any differently than a race seat
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Uh for starters, hinged back, slider tracks, two big problems.
If a race seat is mounted per spec.
It ain't going anywhere.
And there is more than one type of race seat.
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Uh for starters, hinged back, slider tracks, two big problems.
If a race seat is mounted per spec.
It ain't going anywhere.
And there is more than one type of race seat.
Click to expand...

That makes sense. Just a 200hp street car though, not concerned just yet. Still has the regular seat belt right now
 
The next cluster fuck. I noticed these aerospace front brakes drag pretty bad. They are the ac320 model. I had sent my whole spindle assembly to aerospace components and they added spacers and whatnot so the whole spindle, caliper bracket, rotor, the whole assembly was ready to bolt on.

Everything should be parallel, and it sure as fuck is not. I called today and it looks like the whole fuckin turd, driver and passenger, both have to come apart.

Fuckin sweet.
 
The feeler gauge is tight on the top of the caliper bracket to rotor. At least 32 thousands larger gap at the bottom of the bracket. Fuck.

20240507_121503.jpg
 
I've dealt with a lot of aerospace on Fox body spindles.
What components or parts numbers are you working with?
 
Check that pads are parallel as possible to rotor, shim as needed.
Burn them pads in on first outing.
 
Badd_Dadd said:
I've dealt with a lot of aerospace on Fox body spindles.
What components or parts numbers are you working with?
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Team z 2" drop spindles (that they swear they didn't make) and ac320 aerospace brakes

I'm adjusting the shims now, I'm aware that's the issue, but pissed that once again I paid someone to take care of this and here I am.
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Team z 2" drop spindles (that they swear they didn't make) and ac320 aerospace brakes

I'm adjusting the shims now, I'm aware that's the issue, but pissed that once again I paid someone to take care of this and here I am.
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Don't worry about spindle to bracket alignment.
Adjust caliper to bracket so pads are parallel to rotor.
You'll be good to go.
 
Shit.
Those are those damn 2 piston floaters not 4 piston fixed...
Funky fuk, they do need clearance checked between bracket and rotor.

.050 to . 080 or something like that?
 
Spindles likely were drilled and taped for larger bolts with thin bolt head.
Need locktite for sure.
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Spindles likely were drilled and taped for larger bolts with thin bolt head.
Need locktite for sure.
Click to expand...
The team z spindles are warped to fuck after they weld them. I've been dicking with different size washers and feeler gauge for hours.

Got the spacing at .069 at the bottom and .065 at the top. Thinking that's close enough to stop the pads from dragging.

The guys that have run these are 50/50.. half say they were fine on their weekend driver. The other half said they warped the rotors.
 
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Ok, so with the wheel on, I can spin the wheel and get 4 revolutions out of it before it stops. The tech guy says that 3-4 revolutions is about normal.
 
With that hokie set up, I'd be tempted to get my sanding disc and relief friction material from pad until I could slide a feeler gauge uniformly between rotor and pad
 
On another note, the wheel weights get knocked off by the spindle arm, because the Team Z drop spindle is a shit show with a 15 inch wheel.

I guess balance beads is my only option.
 
When I was in the tire trade (commercial/racing/30years) never used any interior tire balancing stuff. At the very least static balanced stuff with tight clearances with tape weights near center/back of front of rim to get them balanced (always duct tape tape weights). My friends with 200mph race cars just bubble balance their stuff with NO issues (I showed them that sometimes when the weight needed looks excessive you can rotate the tire on the rim 180 degrees/usually cures it)(EVERY tire/rim has a heavy spot, sometimes they line up)
 
Aerospace also said this ac320 kit will warp the rotors rather quickly if you're driving this car around town. Even just to and from a car show here and there he said it's likely to destroy them. They sell a pro street kit upgrade for $650 that will move the wheel out about 1/2 inch, which sucks for the "look" I was going for.

We'll see what happens. If I warp these, I'll buy the upgrade
 
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