427 SBF

BOSS#1540 said:
You in bed already?
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I was 🤣

Based on the cloyes instructions the triangle should get me close to 111icl. Truthfully the 2 degrees likely won't matter one bit on this thing but since it's my first build I'm excited to learn some things and have my AH HA! moments
 
Why in the world would this camshaft be a different thread than the old camshaft. The bolt for the eccentric is different.

What the actual fuck
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I was 🤣

Based on the cloyes instructions the triangle should get me close to 111icl. Truthfully the 2 degrees likely won't matter one bit on this thing but since it's my first build I'm excited to learn some things and have my AH HA! moments
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Lol.
Yes, you should get 111° if everything is correct.
And when they say advancing gives you more bottom and retarding gives more top thats just a general rule. It's really a trial and error type deal.
 
Tom396 said:
The keyways ARE a lot further apart than 4 degrees. However, there is also an entirely different "dot"/keyway on the cam gear to use with each position on the crank gear. If you use the triangle "dot" on the crank gear, you better use the triangle "dot" on the cam gear too. Otherwise, I doubt the engine would even start and/or you'll be replacing bent valves. Take care. Tom Worthington
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They look to be about 120° apart 😉.
Maybe the cam has a bendable dowel 😆🤣😭😉
Tom Worthington
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Is it fine thread or a different size?
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Different size and pitch. Need 7/16-20

Which means my fuel pump eccentric won't work because the hole is too small. Which means I might as well buy a timing set or just leave it off. Building cars is fun
 
Just open the hole up. If it is hardened, use a stone in whatever you have, I use air die grinders. On my 200 I use a Chevy big block 1/2'' crank damper washer because the 200 crank bolt is 9/16'' and the hole in stock washer is sloppy, and I just open the 1/2'' Chevy up some for a nice fit. I correct any off center issues at that time.
 
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Strange hole here between lifter valley and distributor hole..

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I'll also add this thing is incredibly dirty. If I wipe my finger across just about any part of the casting inside the engine I get glitter on my finger. In between cam bores, behind timing cover.. I'm wondering wtf.

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Cut a water bottle in half, going to smear a light coat of grease in it. I'm thinking it'll catch any of the grit that comes off while filing the shit off

 
89 Fox 427 said:
Cut a water bottle in half, going to smear a light coat of grease in it. I'm thinking it'll catch any of the grit that comes off while filing the shit off

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Blue painters tape is always nearby when I’m messing with shit. If you can tape things off to keep stuff out, do it.
 
Patriot Racer said:
Blue painters tape is always nearby when I’m messing with shit. If you can tape things off to keep stuff out, do it.
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There's not a good spot to put the tape because the file has to pass through the area. All good now though, worked great.

Also I was afraid rags would just release the shavings when I pulled it out vs the grease keeping shit in it
 
My other block doesn't have this hole. What is it?

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I've reached the panic point.

There are two dowel holes. There are 2 different length dowels (1.38 and 1.125") I don't know which hole to use, and confused by which dowel to use.

No videos I've watched or books I have show two dowel holes on the cam.

Then.. The lmr video says use the long dowel. Then I watched a video from some guy that said the long one is fuckin wrong.

So.

A) The holes are .650" deep on the cam

B) The retainer is .25"

C) The timing cam gear is .78" thick

D) The eccentric tab sticks into the timing gear .14"

So my guess is:
C - D = .64"
.64 + B + A = 1.54

So the longer dowel should clear the tab on the eccentric.
 
Any corrections here?

I'm using RP max-tuff assembly lube on cam and lobes.

Also putting some on the back of the retainer plate/front of cam

The bolts for the retainer plate are getting blue loctite and torqued to 10ft lbs (120 in/lbs
 
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