Woes with a 2004.5 LLY Dmax repeated P0089 Fuel pressure regulator codes.

^^^That is some nasty lookin soup. Bet its been sitting for awhile. No doubt you have/had quite a bit of algae cooking. Here's where I'm at considering what you've done and replaced: you need to flush the entire fuel system out.

Do you have access to an air comp? I'm guessing you have one.

Start at the tanks. Is it still a cab/chassis? If so, easy enough to pop both senders and look inside both tanks with a bright light. If there's crude or blobs of milky looking snot, both tanks need to come out and thoroughly cleaned and flushed. Then add some algaecide with fresh fuel. Myself...I use Kill-em with excellent results. I use to use Power Service Bio Kleen, but prefer Kill em now. If there's minimal cloudy fuel in the tanks, you might get away with just the algaecide. But there's still a risk. Also be sure to clean and blow out the sender pipes as well.

Next I'd disconnect the lines from the cooler and blow that out. Pay attention to what comes out by using some paper towels or a light colored rag. Then disconnect the fuel lines at the filter under the hood. Blow them while the cooler underneath is disconnected. Try and capture what comes out, but its not critical since you said you replaced them. I wouldn't worry too much about the filter itself other than maybe draining it. You said you already replaced it a couple times.

Next disconnect the lines at the FICM. Blow that out and capture what comes out. Also blow the lines out if you can disconnect the other ends. Kinda tough to get the one at the pump, so don't sweat it if you can't.

Last but least, and the most dreadful to do...for me anyway...pull both rails. Be sure to capture what comes out of both. I suspect you're going to find some junk, since that press sensor had that crap on it. Pay extra attention to flushing out both rails...fill them with Brake clean and shake like hell a few times until the Brake clean drains out crystal clear. Then blow them out. Also blow out all the injector lines since they'll be off anyway. Any other lines from front to the rear that you can access both ends, including the return lines should be blown out.

It's a lot of time consuming work, but with the problem you have, it needs to be done again. Reason being: GM had a problem with certain years pumps failing and sending metal throughout the entire fuel system. The repair and parts were covered by GM, but soon after they started this special policy, they cut the time in half...from close to 30 hrs to about 12. Pissed off many guys who in turn, took short cuts with the cleaning. But that backfired, and the same problem they were originally fixing, came back to bite the in the ass. Tech ate all the labor 2nd time around and the dealer ate the parts...which were major $$$$. Since you didn't clean the entire system the first time, I think it bit you in the ass unfortunately.

**I edited this a few times to clarify, add info and correct errors. And to say: this fuel system is a quirky setup and you'd think the filter would catch everything, but it doesn't. I can walk you through the bleeding process afterwards, but I doubt you need the help since you went through it already. Let me know if you find any crap blown out. Or I can probably stop by at some point.
 
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How'd it run today when you took it out?

I started it fuel pressure at 11k lbs and P0089 popped up, shut it off, started it again fuel pressure at 4600 lbs
I cleared the P0089 code it ran fine, put 30 miles on it.
Made 3 stops where I shut it off, at one stop it sat for a couple hours the other 2 stops where quick in and out of the store.
I was able to get on it a few times and get boost up to 20 lbs.
 
Last but least, and the most dreadful to do...for me anyway...pull both rails.

It's a lot of time consuming work, but with the problem you have, it needs to be done again. . Since you didn't clean the entire system the first time, I think it bit you in the ass unfortunately.

It has a flatbed on it now.
I don't mind doing the work, I have pulled the engine twice now.
I am with you on not cleaning the fuel system completely, live an learn.

This is how far I have had it apart...




How it sits now.


 
I started it fuel pressure at 11k lbs and P0089 popped up, shut it off, started it again fuel pressure at 4600 lbs
I cleared the P0089 code it ran fine, put 30 miles on it.
Made 3 stops where I shut it off, at one stop it sat for a couple hours the other 2 stops where quick in and out of the store.
I was able to get on it a few times and get boost up to 20 lbs.
That's odd that it sat for a couple hrs and didn't act up. Did you ever happen to notice what eng coolant temp was compared to IAT? They should be fairly close after sitting all night.

Another thought...didn't read the DRP thread yet but I will as I'd like to see the details, did this act up when temps were warmer? Like ovnight temps above 50°? Wondering if fuel viscosity has any bearing on it.
 
Wow, NICE flatbed!! You for sure have a sweet setup there. No wonder you went so far into this. With the cab off makes a world of difference gaining access, plus not having to lean over the fender. Everything out in the open with just a rolling chassis like you had.

edit: I give you a hell of a lot of credit pulling the engine twice!! Better you than me lol. But that's coming from someone who was under the pressure of the clock all the time. When its your own stuff on your own time makes a big difference with the mindset...for me anyways.
 
Wow, NICE flatbed!! You for sure have a sweet setup there. No wonder you went so far into this. With the cab off makes a world of difference gaining access, plus not having to lean over the fender. Everything out in the open with just a rolling chassis like you had.

edit: I give you a hell of a lot of credit pulling the engine twice!! Better you than me lol. But that's coming from someone who was under the pressure of the clock all the time. When its your own stuff on your own time makes a big difference with the mindset...for me anyways.

Wait till you read the Dieselplace thread, LOL
Broken bellhousing on the Allison, broken rear engine plate and lots of broken bolts and glow plugs.

Hear ya on being under the gun and trying to earn a paycheck, I work at my own pace, if it's too cold nothing gets done, if it's too hot nothing gets done. Then I bitch about getting nothing done. :LOL:
 
Wait till you read the Dieselplace thread, LOL
Broken bellhousing on the Allison, broken rear engine plate and lots of broken bolts and glow plugs.
o_Oo_Oo_O:oops::oops::oops:
Gonna start reading it now. Noticed its quite lengthy
 
Just noticed the date of the thread at DRP. Since it was warm weather, so much for viscosity having any bearing on it acting up.

Also just noticed something else, that thread is at DP not DRP duh:sleep: Told ya I'm guilty of speed reading. Bad habit from the flat rate days.
 
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o_Oo_Oo_O:oops::oops::oops:
Gonna start reading it now. Noticed its quite lengthy

Tell me at what point you would have dumped gas on it and torched it to the ground :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Also I only paid $3k for this truck delivered to my house with what I thought only needing new fuel lines.
I am now at $15k into it :LOL: :facepalm:
Good news is with price of trucks these days I could just about recoup my money back if I decided to sell it.
 
Tell me at what point you would have dumped gas on it and torched it to the ground :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Also I only paid $3k for this truck delivered to my house with what I thought only needing new fuel lines.
I am now at $15k into it :LOL: :facepalm:
Good news is with price of trucks these days I could just about recoup my money back if I decided to sell it.
LOL I hear ya but I'd have likely parked it and either went back to it weeks or months later, or just sold it. Honestly though...doubt I'd burn it or sell it> I KNOW 1st hand what the value of a rig like that is worth. I can think of so mnay uses for a 1 ton with that bed on it!! That setup is worth a fortune today for sure!! Hell I'm tempted to make you an offer even, but the timing is wrong. I would love to have that thing, problem or not!

Funny you mention the $$$, I was talking to my wife about it yesterday and mentioned you probably had a good 8-10K in it with just parts and still had problems.
 
Holy fuq!!! Just finished the 1st page at DP. Not surprising though. Busted Xfer cases, trans cases, manifold and turbo plumbing bolts rotted off are expected and normal. I went thru hell once trying to get a busted GP out. Spent most of a day before I got it out because I'll be damn If I was gonna pull the head.

I'll have to continue reading the rest later as I have a Dr appt for my knee shortly
 
Holy WTF...I am at a loss for words after reading what you've been through since last year. Give you much respect for sticking it out with this problem. I'd have torched it for sure lol
 
Something is commanding that increase of pressure. Still leaning towards something in the rail and then moving away after a single shut down event and correcting the problem. But now I'm not convinced as much as I was earlier prior to reading the DP thread.

If you can get the data, I'd love to know what commanded pressure is when you cold start it since we know what actual is at 11K. Also what eng coolant temp and IAT when you first turn the key on. And before I touched anything else on the fuel system, I'd pull both rails to see if any junk is floating around. Don't even bother flushing the rest of the system until the rail contents proved it was needed. Maybe this weekend I can swing by with my Tech2 and look at all the data. Wondering if I could over ride the commanded state (if high) to lower the pressure without shutting it down. Or have you tried that?
 
And with the old fuel that nasty, and not knowing how clean you got the tank(s), maybe there is junk still in the tank?

Just thinking out loud again...

Definitely a mind stumper, but rest assured there is an answer out there....somewhere
 
Something is commanding that increase of pressure. Still leaning towards something in the rail and then moving away after a single shut down event and correcting the problem. But now I'm not convinced as much as I was earlier prior to reading the DP thread.

If you can get the data, I'd love to know what commanded pressure is when you cold start it since we know what actual is at 11K. Also what eng coolant temp and IAT when you first turn the key on. And before I touched anything else on the fuel system, I'd pull both rails to see if any junk is floating around. Don't even bother flushing the rest of the system until the rail contents proved it was needed. Maybe this weekend I can swing by with my Tech2 and look at all the data. Wondering if I could over ride the commanded state (if high) to lower the pressure without shutting it down. Or have you tried that?

I can check on these items and see what it shows, probably won't be until the weekend though and it's looking like
it's going to be cold. No rush on your part, I can wait for warmer weather.
At least now it is pretty predictable and isn't throwing codes from left field.

I think the Snap-off will let me reduce pressure, I will try that.
 
Holy WTF...I am at a loss for words after reading what you've been through since last year. Give you much respect for sticking it out with this problem. I'd have torched it for sure lol

:D LOL I will admit some is my fault, I am Dmax dumb but I know more about them now. Plus lesson learned.... don't buy fuel injection parts off ebay.
 
Yeah they're saying another round of snow Friday:facepalm:

No matter to me though, just another day of New England winter weather. Let me know when if you want me to swing by.
 
And with the old fuel that nasty, and not knowing how clean you got the tank(s), maybe there is junk still in the tank?

Just thinking out loud again...

Definitely a mind stumper, but rest assured there is an answer out there....somewhere

It has a 2 tank setup, the rear tank pumps fuel to the front with one of fuel pumps that came on the 6.5 trucks.
The rear tank is completely clean, I had to replace it because the metal ring that holds the sender in rotted away.

The front tank I didn't take out but I cleaned the inside with a rag as far as my arm could reach.
Probably didn't get everything though, I SRGN mentioned there is baffles in it and nooks I wouldn't be able to reach.
 
:D LOL I will admit some is my fault, I am Dmax dumb but I know more about them now. Plus lesson learned.... don't buy fuel injection parts off ebay.
Nah, don't beat yourself up too much. You went at it the best you could. Trust me, there are many guys out there that have fixed these kinda problems by throwing parts, myself included. Bogus parts only add to the confusion.

You've done a hell of a job so far IMO(y)
 
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