The part where I give up

did ya fix the leaky ice maker?
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Cold start low 60's. It has a high volume pump which is not recommended in sbf
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Pressure, and volume are 2 different things my friend..



Run the fuckin thing for a few and see if you actually have issues. You will know it.

Keep idle high and Rev occasionally to 3 grand or so.

K.I.S.S.

Yes you need a load to set rings. But you're not setting rings...
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Cold start low 60's. It has a high volume pump which is not recommended in sbf
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I have made the mistake of running hi pressure / hi volume oil pump on a street engine.
There was fucking oil everywhere, but on the plus side of things kept the ole Komaro from rusting. :LOL:
 
Mitch H said:
Do they take generators on a drive to seat rings?

Goneracin seating the rings on my 638.......in less than 10 seconds.:thumbup:

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The generator co I built all those 2203’s for actually had a load cell & he would run them for 10 minutes @ 35kw to seat the rings. He sold one that he forgot to run in & it came back smokin like an old Ferd.
 
Could it be oil from setting the valves .take brake clean pray it down the blow it out with air let it dry over night before start up take a mirror down the back of the block look for oil then start it let it run again put fresh cardboard under it then look all over again
 
Boosted Bullet said:
I'd start that mf'r with the trans and bellhousing off.
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The ONLY car engines I deal with are race car setups. Do not recall ever having a leak out back. I do a LOT of big truck diesel stuff. Seen a lot of rear main leaks. When I pull everything, trans, clutch, flywheel, I can tell/show you exactly where the leak is coming from. I suspect it would be the same on 89's SBF.

If Brian cannot run the motor, I would give the block 50-55psi of air pressure and see if it leaks again before I took anything apart.

That said, if the oil is dripping in one spot it should be easy enough to trace the origin and be SURE it did not come from higher up and ran to one place before dripping. Oil is not gonna dry up anytime soon. If it leaks again, and you cannot see proof of it traveling from an origin other than the bell housing.......pull the tranny and slap a new rear main seal in it.
 
Mitch H said:
The ONLY car engines I deal with are race car setups. Do not recall ever having a leak out back. I do a LOT of big truck diesel stuff. Seen a lot of rear main leaks. When I pull everything, trans, clutch, flywheel, I can tell/show you exactly where the leak is coming from. I suspect it would be the same on 89's SBF.

If Brian cannot run the motor, I would give the block 50-55psi of air pressure and see if it leaks again before I took anything apart.

That said, if the oil is dripping in one spot it should be easy enough to trace the origin and be SURE it did not come from higher up and ran to one place before dripping. Oil is not gonna dry up anytime soon. If it leaks again, and you cannot see proof of it traveling from an origin other than the bell housing.......pull the tranny and slap a new rear main seal in it.
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That's some good advice, that's why you're the crewchief, :)
 
Put a vacuum pump on that bitch and throw the relief valve in the toolbox, no more leak! :cool:
 
Did you pull that transmission yet?
I went out and pulled mine today and it took me 1hr exactly. Now get out there and get it done.
 
kwplot34 said:
Did you pull that transmission yet?
I went out and pulled mine today and it took me 1hr exactly. Now get out there and get it done.
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Did you have to take the header? Because i do. And installation of driver header alone takes 1 hour on this fucking heap of dog shit
 
89 Fox 351 said:
Did you have to take the header? Because i do. And installation of driver header alone takes 1 hour on this fucking heap of dog shit
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No I did not have to pull a header, had to pull the drive shaft and you don't have one in your car so there is that time savings.
 
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