Need recommendation for a wiring harness kit

chevellejack

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I have a 71 Chevelle that I bought years ago .
The wiring harness has been added to, modified, the previous owner took out the A/C and put rubber caps over the wires.
The twilights were done with speaker wire when I got the car.
I think it's time to wire the car correctly.
Some of those quick harness systems look good.
The basic street rod & drag car ones.
Only things I'll need are :
Ignition
Gauges
Electric fuel pump
Signal lights
Wipers
Headlights
Taillights
Brake lights
Charging system
A couple of accy circuits.

What would be a decent reliable harness?

I want something easy to trouble shoot, but not one of the high dollar ones .

Also, I don't want one that all the insulation crumbles at 100°.

Thanks for the info.
 
This will come basically as a plug and play unit with great instructions and near impossible to fuck up. OEM connectors too

 
I like Rebel Wiring and American Autowire. Both will require some crimping and other work, but I enjoy big wiring projects.


 
I was asking about wiring for my truck a while back and someone mentioned these guys. https://www.racersrods.com/ I emailed them and they responded pretty fast. You might give them a call and just see if they offer a factory replacement type. Their prices for custom builds like my truck was very good as well. I haven't ordered mine yet but I am thinking of giving them a shot if I don't just build my own from scratch.

If you want it all factory like American autowire is probably as good as a choice as any based on other guys speaking up for them.
 
American Autowire nice stuff I have the highway 22 kit.
 
Painless is not painless and is over priced. I do wish these people, ALL of them (wear it if you are guilty,) would do two things

1...Stop printing the design circuit on the wiring aka "windows" because if the owner has no electric windows, but wants to use that circuit for something else.............

2...Put a nice complete diagram of the harness, a line drawing, in with the booklet.
 
Painless is not painless and is over priced. I do wish these people, ALL of them (wear it if you are guilty,) would do two things

1...Stop printing the design circuit on the wiring aka "windows" because if the owner has no electric windows, but wants to use that circuit for something else.............

2...Put a nice complete diagram of the harness, a line drawing, in with the booklet.
You do realize that if they don't want to use the power window circuit for Windows and use it for something else they can write that down in the booklet themselves? I mean this goes back to that personal accountability issue again.
 
Painless is not painless and is over priced. I do wish these people, ALL of them (wear it if you are guilty,) would do two things

1...Stop printing the design circuit on the wiring aka "windows" because if the owner has no electric windows, but wants to use that circuit for something else.............

2...Put a nice complete diagram of the harness, a line drawing, in with the booklet.
I don't know what percentage of people installing the harnesses can actually read a regular engineering diagram, but it's not going to be a lot. Decades ago when I drew diagrams for automated systems, I would organize things logically. Incoming power on page 1, and wire numbers for everything on page 1 would start with.... 1. So, wire 108 was page 1, wire 8. All the drawings were done this way, and the final outputs were as close to the last drawings as possible. I also drew out the panel layout in autocad full size, so it could be printed on a industrial plotter. All the drill sizes and component drawings were on the layout, so you just had to tape it to the bare panel, and drill and/or tap necessary holes straight through the paper. All the components and wire trough could be installed using the layout for reference, and you knew everything would fit. But, yeah, not everyone is going to go that far. For the automotive harnesses, having the wires marked with the circuit is fine. There's too many people out there that can even fuck that up, so if it was more intricate, the company would be tied up on tech support call/emails constantly and get blasted online for being too hard to figure out.
 
You do realize that if they don't want to use the power window circuit for Windows and use it for something else they can write that down in the booklet themselves? I mean this goes back to that personal accountability issue again.
I understand, it just seems to me it's a (you pick color) wire, so write down in there the yellow is XXXXXX and that is not power windows. I'm talking about it's printed right on the wiring.

Actually if they wanted to print something on the conductors, why not just numerals? And they could be same as fuse numbering.
 
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I don't know what percentage of people installing the harnesses can actually read a regular engineering diagram, but it's not going to be a lot. Decades ago when I drew diagrams for automated systems, I would organize things logically. Incoming power on page 1, and wire numbers for everything on page 1 would start with.... 1. So, wire 108 was page 1, wire 8. All the drawings were done this way, and the final outputs were as close to the last drawings as possible. I also drew out the panel layout in autocad full size, so it could be printed on a industrial plotter. All the drill sizes and component drawings were on the layout, so you just had to tape it to the bare panel, and drill and/or tap necessary holes straight through the paper. All the components and wire trough could be installed using the layout for reference, and you knew everything would fit. But, yeah, not everyone is going to go that far. For the automotive harnesses, having the wires marked with the circuit is fine. There's too many people out there that can even fuck that up, so if it was more intricate, the company would be tied up on tech support call/emails constantly and get blasted online for being too hard to figure out.
Unfortunately you could be right. I've even sat down with the harness fuse panel in hand and checked them out for continuity so I knew WTF they went and did. I've also pulled contacts/ jumpers out of the panel so I could get some circuits "off the key" etc.
 
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