427 SBF

89 Fox 427 said:
At the rate i have to disassemble stuff I was hoping for something slightly less "fuck you!"
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For slightly less "fuck you" do this:

-Rubber/reusable gasket
-Very thin layer of right stuff on block side (or pan, whichever has the gap) where there's the gap fill with right stuff
-Install pan barely snug and don't tighten till silicone has cured
-Once cured tighten pan down

Now you have gap sealed and the reusable gasket allows easy pan removal. If you ever need to change pan gasket it'll be a chore but might only have to do it one time in the engines useful life.
 
How well does the right stuff hold up to an oxy/acetylene heat source.. you know, for future reference...
 
89 Fox 427 said:
How well does the right stuff hold up to an oxy/acetylene heat source.. you know, for future reference...
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We had a blown-up to hell SBC once, there was really nothing left of it to use except the intake manifold. Stock block so it wasn't going to get sleeved. We stuck our engine lift plate on the manifold in place of the carb, took the distributor out and all the intake manifold bolts, and pulled the engine out!

We had used the Right Stuff on that manifold a year prior and figure why not test it. Well, that shit was STRONG! I don't know what the engine weighed, probably 600 pounds. That stuff was amazing! And yes, it was a PITA to remove that intake manifold!
 
BOSS#1540 said:
👍
I've never had to, lol, springs have been dead nuts 🤷‍♂️
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I did this on an engine that had varying spring pressures and I didn't want to buy new springs at the time. It wasn't a race engine but did have dual springs on it. Probably did not matter, but since I had the ability to check and do it, I did.
 
Mike Beck said:
We had a blown-up to hell SBC once, there was really nothing left of it to use except the intake manifold. Stock block so it wasn't going to get sleeved. We stuck our engine lift plate on the manifold in place of the carb, took the distributor out and all the intake manifold bolts, and pulled the engine out!

We had used the Right Stuff on that manifold a year prior and figure why not test it. Well, that shit was STRONG! I don't know what the engine weighed, probably 600 pounds. That stuff was amazing! And yes, it was a PITA to remove that intake manifold!
Click to expand...
That's impressive!! Never knew that about Right Stuff and for sure I'll keep it in mind if the need arises.
 
I have tried and failed several times, for several days, to remove the keepers from one valve. I'm going to have to remove the head and take it to the machine shop. Just the way it goes sometimes.

I also have to confirm if the valve is bent or not due to some questionable tactics I used to try and remove the locks
 
Yes, Acetone will work. If the head is on the engine you can only fill the top side of the valve. If the head is off you can put a spark plug in there and fill the combustion chamber. Either way will work.
 
Promaxx sent me retainers and locks to try and get my installed heights closer without needing spacers.

Notice anything different about the retainers they sent?


 
If anyone wants to discuss their luck, please kindly fuck off!
 
At what point can I be considered a builder instead of an assembler
 
89 Fox 427 said:
At what point can I be considered a builder instead of an assembler
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You'll probably never get there, few do. I have been doing this shit for a very long time, and I am not really a builder at this point.

When you can take the engine apart, take the shit to a machine shop, get it all back, check measurements and put it all together and actually have it last at least a few burnouts, then you can call yourself a builder.
 
The good news is, moving valve locks around here and there I'm good to go. On installed height. As others said I don't know if the spring pressures are accurate, but this makes me feel better regardless.

Heights ranging from 1.802 to 1.791
 
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