427 SBF

I tried. Almost seemed to bury them deeper in the retainer when the spring pops back up
This is where the moroso type tool comes in handy because you can apply pressure and tap the retainer fingers at the same time.
Not sure if that's possible with the tool you're using
 
I tried. Almost seemed to bury them deeper in the retainer when the spring pops back up
Well then either take Steve's or Patriot's earlier advice.

Adding some info from your other thread on YB (yes guys he's cheating on you) your springs have a 386 pound spring rate.

.015 x 386=5.7lbs

With a mild hydraulic roller like you have the pressure variance means nothing.

I've run between 385 and 430 on similar cams with no issues.

Stop beating your head against the wall, just put it together and go do burnout's.
 
Well then either take Steve's or Patriot's earlier advice.

Adding some info from your other thread on YB (yes guys he's cheating on you) your springs have a 386 pound spring rate.

.015 x 386=5.7lbs

With a mild hydraulic roller like you have the pressure variance means nothing.

I've run between 385 and 430 on similar cams with no issues.

Stop beating your head against the wall, just put it together and go do burnout's.
Yeah but he doesn't want that much variance on the seat, the 385-430 example, but yeah I wouldn't stress over 6 lbs.
 
Well then either take Steve's or Patriot's earlier advice.

Adding some info from your other thread on YB (yes guys he's cheating on you) your springs have a 386 pound spring rate.

.015 x 386=5.7lbs

With a mild hydraulic roller like you have the pressure variance means nothing.

I've run between 385 and 430 on similar cams with no issues.

Stop beating your head against the wall, just put it together and go do burnout's.

Where did you come up with the spring rate at 386? I don't know where I came up with 338 but that's what I have in my notes. Maybe a drunken dream one night
 
Well then either take Steve's or Patriot's earlier advice.

Adding some info from your other thread on YB (yes guys he's cheating on you) your springs have a 386 pound spring rate.

.015 x 386=5.7lbs

With a mild hydraulic roller like you have the pressure variance means nothing.

I've run between 385 and 430 on similar cams with no issues.

Stop beating your head against the wall, just put it together and go do burnout's.

Oh never mind.

Spring rate = change in force / change in distance

Rate = (410-155) / .66
 
Yeah but he doesn't want that much variance on the seat, the 385-430 example, but yeah I wouldn't stress over 6 lbs.
I didn't mean that as the variance on 1 engine.

I meant it as an acceptable range of an open pressure for a .600 to .630 lift hydraulic roller.

The 6lbs is meant to be if he had between 400 and 406 open or 150 or 156 seated don't sweat it.
 
I didn't mean that as the variance on 1 engine.

I meant it as an acceptable range of an open pressure for a .600 to .630 lift hydraulic roller.

The 6lbs is meant to be if he had between 400 and 406 open or 150 or 156 seated don't sweat it.

I have 3 valves I'm going to tend to. They're in the 145-147 range based on 386 spring rate. Once I hit 150s I'll send it
 
I know people that will take their new springs and put them through the wringer!

They will squeeze them down to coil bind three times.

Then check the pressure (the correct way) on the bench at both the installed height and the open height.

By checking the pressure the correct way. I have seen people check their dual springs with a bench top checker. The problem is, they did the springs together, inner and outer at the same time. Well, the retainers usually have a step about .060 inch tall on the inner. So when they check a dual spring the inner is not contributing it's full amount, unless they use the retainer at the same time.

I check them by themselves. I can mix and match them to get them closer to each other that way. It probably does not matter at my level of racing anyway.

I do buy the better polished springs for my engine. My wife got the same spring, but not polished. She doesn't race that much, has far less cam than I do, and almost 1000 rpm less. I am using PAC-1325's, she gets the 1225's. $200 difference in price. Same retainers locks and seats. I even splurged and got her the same valves I run. Sometimes I am nice to her. :)

But, I wanted T&D shafts for her engine, till I saw they have doubled in price since I did mine. She gets to keep her stud rockers and stud girdle.
 
I know people that will take their new springs and put them through the wringer!

They will squeeze them down to coil bind three times.

Then check the pressure (the correct way) on the bench at both the installed height and the open height.

By checking the pressure the correct way. I have seen people check their dual springs with a bench top checker. The problem is, they did the springs together, inner and outer at the same time. Well, the retainers usually have a step about .060 inch tall on the inner. So when they check a dual spring the inner is not contributing it's full amount, unless they use the retainer at the same time.

I check them by themselves. I can mix and match them to get them closer to each other that way. It probably does not matter at my level of racing anyway.

I do buy the better polished springs for my engine. My wife got the same spring, but not polished. She doesn't race that much, has far less cam than I do, and almost 1000 rpm less. I am using PAC-1325's, she gets the 1225's. $200 difference in price. Same retainers locks and seats. I even splurged and got her the same valves I run. Sometimes I am nice to her. :)

But, I wanted T&D shafts for her engine, till I saw they have doubled in price since I did mine. She gets to keep her stud rockers and stud girdle.
I do like to see where actual coil bind is.

You could've got her the aluminum ones 🤷‍♂️😆
 
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