427 SBF

I
89 Fox 427 said:
Pushrods, oil pump, misc fittings and plugs, gaskets, black rtv
Click to expand...
I ordered valves from REV in Florida. I got them in three days. Didn't ask for any special delivery, I consider myself lucky!
Ordered piston from Wieseco, had them within a week. Shocked but VERY pleased!
Going to call Crower and see if they can rebuild my lifters. Damn things feel perfect but have well over 1000 passes on them. Not going to take a chance. If they can rebuild them for a reasonable price, great. Otherwise it's another $800 or so............

Will have to order a timing set, that usually is not an issue. Probably need new pushrods, heads are getting milled, running a different head gasket than before, and valves are .100 longer. Would like to use the push rods that came out of the engine but will buy new if I have to.

I need to start two build threads. One for my 2001 Silverado I am about to cut the frame in half and replace it with a junkyard frame.
The other for the wifey's race car engine.
Why not, will give people something to look at. Will think I am crazy to fix this truck. What do I have to lose.........
 
@Mike Beck hurry with the build thread so we can get some super exciting car content 🤣

@Raidmagic what's been going on with your build?

@Briansshop how many are you building at once right now and where are they at?

@Steve439 I have never seen any of your projects that I can recall, is that because of the Metadata in the photos and you work at a pizza factory?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Can someone make sense of the engineering behind this, with none of the centerline on the valvetrain lining up. These are rough estimates.

The lifter bores in the block have a 1.725 centerline spacing

The pushrod holes in the heads have 1.960 center to center

The afr pushrod guides maxed all the way out have 1.812 center to center

The rocker studs are 1.788 center to center

The valve tips are 1.862 center to center.

I just don't get it. How does this produce proper geometry?
Click to expand...

Briansshop said:
^ Yes. I have AFRs and could not get totally happy with the rocker alignment. Not enough guild plate adj,and a small hole for the push rods in the head. The roller doesn't have to be centered L/R,just get it as good as you can and lock them down.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about this.
The spacing all seems kind of strange, but have you tried assembling without the guide plates to see how things work out?
Maybe the AFRs aren't the right choice.
 
I'll need those fender emblems for the mustang.

Really jerk off someone's blood pressure at a car show
 
Shit I was just making a joke about Chevy guys.

I'm making my own 7.0 emblems.

Or maybe even 7.oh just to be a real douche.
 
maybe you should wait until you have a running engine in it....I'm thinking an LS isn't ruled out after all.
 
With all the talk about posting photos I haven't tried but it was easy for me...

To start off the 4th weekend here's some stuff.

Brodix aluminum block, pretty much a 4.5 bore drop-in for a stock BBC



AFR 265 heads. I bought them assembled, and then proceeded to replace pretty much everything.
I bought stock length Ferrea valves - hollow stem 2.19 intakes and 1.88 exhausts.
With the stock length valves, and the .600 lift solid roller I bought from Mark O, the T&D rockers are perfect with the stock stands.

After I started reading about the "get close to bind" deal on springs I spent a whole lot of time looking at springs
to find a set with the right height, pressures, and which would get to around .060 away from bind.
I found Crane double springs.
I was never really happy with them, they have a damper (which disturbs me) and they are kind of heavy.
And the tool steel retainers I bought are reasonable, but pretty much full sized.

Then... Comp came out with their conical springs.
I looked into them and there's a set that fit my needs perfectly.
I bought them and titanium retainers from Mark O.
Both the springs and the retainers are stupidly light.
I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think the combo is about 50-60 grams less than the double springs/retainers.




All of this is on hold though, because I want to finish the suspension before I build the motor.

Here's the differential (and yes, that is Rustoleum)



The trailing arms are the last thing I need to complete before I put the suspension back together.
This second one is almost done, I just need to get motivated.


 
Steve439 said:
With all the talk about posting photos I haven't tried but it was easy for me...

To start off the 4th weekend here's some stuff.

Brodix aluminum block, pretty much a 4.5 bore drop-in for a stock BBC



AFR 265 heads. I bought them assembled, and then proceeded to replace pretty much everything.
I bought stock length Ferrea valves - hollow stem 2.19 intakes and 1.88 exhausts.
With the stock length valves, and the .600 lift solid roller I bought from Mark O, the T&D rockers are perfect with the stock stands.

After I started reading about the "get close to bind" deal on springs I spent a whole lot of time looking at springs
to find a set with the right height, pressures, and which would get to around .060 away from bind.
I found Crane double springs.
I was never really happy with them, they have a damper (which disturbs me) and they are kind of heavy.
And the tool steel retainers I bought are reasonable, but pretty much full sized.

Then... Comp came out with their conical springs.
I looked into them and there's a set that fit my needs perfectly.
I bought them and titanium retainers from Mark O.
Both the springs and the retainers are stupidly light.
I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think the combo is about 50-60 grams less than the double springs/retainers.




All of this is on hold though, because I want to finish the suspension before I build the motor.

Here's the differential (and yes, that is Rustoleum)



The trailing arms are the last thing I need to complete before I put the suspension back together.
This second one is almost done, I just need to get motivated.


Click to expand...
See,that wasn't so hard.......
 
How much clearance should you have between rocker arm and pushrod at full lift?

Any suggestions? Mine were awfully close
 
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