427 SBF

I have a torque wrench attached to digital torque wrench adapter for double the safety because I don't trust it

It's a melling m83 pump.

I downloaded the summit racing app on my phone.

My credit card company loves me.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Can someone make sense of the engineering behind this, with none of the centerline on the valvetrain lining up. These are rough estimates.

The lifter bores in the block have a 1.725 centerline spacing

The pushrod holes in the heads have 1.960 center to center

The afr pushrod guides maxed all the way out have 1.812 center to center

The rocker studs are 1.788 center to center

The valve tips are 1.862 center to center.

I just don't get it. How does this produce proper geometry?

View attachment 29306
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That is what we deal with on our SBC stuff all the time. I have offset lifters AND offset intake rockers to get the shit lined-up correctly.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I have a torque wrench attached to digital torque wrench adapter for double the safety because I don't trust it

It's a melling m83 pump.

I downloaded the summit racing app on my phone.

My credit card company loves me.
Click to expand...
On small shit like that it gets blue loctite and my wrist tells me how tight to make it. I do have an inch/lb torque wrench but I only use that on the Ford shit I get stuck with working on once in awhile. Did I ever mention I HATE cam phasers and mile-long timing chains!
 
Mike Beck said:
On small shit like that it gets blue loctite and my wrist tells me how tight to make it. I do have an inch/lb torque wrench but I only use that on the Ford shit I get stuck with working on once in awhile. Did I ever mention I HATE cam phasers and mile-long timing chains!
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And I bet when you "tap" your retainers the keepers don't fly out 🤦‍♂️
 
Also, in my experience, NEVER order a shortblock from Scott Shafiroff racing engines. I've had enough issues along the way and was told some shit today by Scott Shafiroff directly that blew my mind. They don't have bearing clearance info, nor do they have what they honed lifter bores to. Also said that lifter bores scratching lifters happens all the time and I can take sandpaper or scotchbrite to the bores if I need to knock any of it down, and not to worry about catching any of the debris because there won't really be any.

Fuck you.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
And I bet when you "tap" your retainers the keepers don't fly out 🤦‍♂️
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Nope, never had any go flying. But I tap them, not SMACK them. Big difference. If they are really stuck AND I won't be reusing the retainers, I use a large socket and whack them good. That is when I fully expect them to go flying, but still haven't had to chase.......
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Also, in my experience, NEVER order a shortblock from Scott Shafiroff racing engines. I've had enough issues along the way and was told some shit today by Scott Shafiroff directly that blew my mind. They don't have bearing clearance info, nor do they have what they honed lifter bores to. Also said that lifter bores scratching lifters happens all the time and I can take sandpaper or scotchbrite to the bores if I need to knock any of it down, and not to worry about catching any of the debris because there won't really be any.

Fuck you.
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A friend of mine bought TWO complete SBC's from him years ago, both 434's with AFR235 heads. He ran the shit out of those engines, never an issue. I guess things can happen with anyone at anytime. I have seen stuff from top-notch people fail almost immediately. It happens. How things are handled after shyt goes wrong is what really sets them apart from each other.
 
Mike Beck said:
Nope, never had any go flying. But I tap them, not SMACK them. Big difference. If they are really stuck AND I won't be reusing the retainers, I use a large socket and whack them good. That is when I fully expect them to go flying, but still haven't had to chase.......
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Yepper
A rag between your socket and retainer helps.
Think valve float is causing the "really stuck" ones ?
 
Shitty oil pump , not enough material around bolt hole. I am for saving weight , but the bolt looks short.
 
Mike Beck said:
A friend of mine bought TWO complete SBC's from him years ago, both 434's with AFR235 heads. He ran the shit out of those engines, never an issue. I guess things can happen with anyone at anytime. I have seen stuff from top-notch people fail almost immediately. It happens. How things are handled after shyt goes wrong is what really sets them apart from each other.
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I have heard nothing but great things from guys that have bought full builds from them. Bangr used them in the past and not a hiccup.

Shortblock stuff can be funny though. They're not the final assembler so some things go overlooked. I figured it might need a wipe or compressed air here and there, but to have metal shavings hanging off of machined areas, and a lack of chamfers in some areas made it a real dick to keep clean.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
Yepper
A rag between your socket and retainer helps.
Think valve float is causing the "really stuck" ones ?
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Not sure. But, when I do see signs of valve float, I know those locks are going to be STUCK!
The star-pattern on the top of the valve stem, or lash caps, really gives the float issue away.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I have heard nothing but great things from guys that have bought full builds from them. Bangr used them in the past and not a hiccup.

Shortblock stuff can be funny though. They're not the final assembler so some things go overlooked. I figured it might need a wipe or compressed air here and there, but to have metal shavings hanging off of machined areas, and a lack of chamfers in some areas made it a real dick to keep clean.
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My old engine guy spent a lot of time prepping a block before he did anything on it. He didn't like sharp edges either. He would also spend the time to paint the lifter valley to help with drain back.
 
Mike Beck said:
My old engine guy spent a lot of time prepping a block before he did anything on it. He didn't like sharp edges either. He would also spend the time to paint the lifter valley to help with drain back.
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I spend a lot of hours deburring the block, radiusing machined edges and blending oil paths. I don't do the paint thing or smooth/polish the block for oil return.
 
I have also had issues using a gasket that’s too thick between two machined surfaces before. The gasket compresses around the bolts but not as much as the surrounding area and cause warping andor cracking. I would probably use some loctite flange sealant on mine instead of a gasket or the thinnest paper gasket. Like sheet of paper thin if both surfaces are totally flat. I’m terrified of doing that crack where the pump attaches to the block
 
Patriot Racer said:
Too much tq. You have a Harbor Freight Tq wrench?

Buddy of mine snapped off a bolt on his brand new FTI transmission while bolting on his bellhousing. The directions that came with it were for a C4 instead of a Turbo 400. The TH400 has smaller bolts. He went straight to the Tq specs without paying attention and snapped it off. He ended up taking it to a machine shop and it cost him $800 because they had to make a special jig.

Be happy, it's just an oil pump. Cheap to replace.
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hulk_pipe_wrench___by_tbolt66_d6vddyr-pre.jpg
 
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