427 SBF

KwiknFast said:
I've never had a spring compressor I liked, other than seeing the big buck boys use the billet aluminum air powered ones.
Click to expand...
goodson.com

Heavy Duty Manual Valve Spring Compressor | CF-1500

Easily handles high-pressure valve springs. Works faster and holds up better than any other valve spring compressor.
goodson.com goodson.com
Last time I was doing anything with heads I was gifted use of that for a week. His was blue. Zero problems. That over center feature is sweet. and the way the holes line up to accommodate all the lengths, all but dead nuts on, that's someone who did heads all day making his perfect tool. Simple, sweet, and fairly priced. Air schmair. Maybe for Promod springs...

That a keeper could deform like that is scary. Last two engines I played with were a Volvo, and my Kaase Boss9 head. I can see both of those having well above average quality parts

But I did engine disassembly for a machine shop back around 2001 for 3 weeks of evenings instead of cash for a bill because he knew me as neat and organized and he was having problem find (sober) entry level staff, so it worked out for us both. I was into tons of different brands and I can tell you a Chrysler K car or a VW air cooled, or whatever bottom of the barrel engine, none EVER had keepers that would deform like that. That is just nasty. Replace 'em all. Get "machined" not stamped, too.
 
I once had a pair of locks come in in 3 pieces, and the engine was running perfect! Another had a main cap come out in two pieces, perfect oil pressure, engine was being freshened. Sometimes you just never know...........

Those locks looked like stamped-steel stock stuff, not machined. I used titanium locks once, only because they sent them instead of machined. When I went to use a magnet on them and it didn't work, I said screw this. I don't care if they are lighter weight and I "only" paid for machined locks, I knew they would just be an issue for me later. They were GLAD to replace them.
 
With the price of some of the little stuff like locks I'm willing to buy the best available.

My idea now is buy everything from Ferrea.

I've tried different brand locks against valves against retainers and would never try to mix brands again.
 
Steve439 said:
With the price of some of the little stuff like locks I'm willing to buy the best available.

My idea now is buy everything from Ferrea.

I've tried different brand locks against valves against retainers and would never try to mix brands again.
Click to expand...
I have used Ferrea in the past, no problems with their stuff. I have been using PAC for everything but valves, those I get from REV in Florida.
 
I wish I had that much valve to piston clearance, I would run more cam! With SBC stuff (23*) we have to use such a large dome because of our large combustion chambers, it is hard to make compression. Those shallower valve angles and small combustion chambers certainly make things easier for you guys. LS stuff also.
 
Mike Beck said:
I wish I had that much valve to piston clearance, I would run more cam! With SBC stuff (23*) we have to use such a large dome because of our large combustion chambers, it is hard to make compression. Those shallower valve angles and small combustion chambers certainly make things easier for you guys. LS stuff also.
Click to expand...

I expected less clearance. I was thinking about advancing the cam 4 degrees to see where clearance is, so I have some kind of reference if a swap is ever needed
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I expected less clearance. I was thinking about advancing the cam 4 degrees to see where clearance is, so I have some kind of reference if a swap is ever needed
Click to expand...
Move it both ways 4* and see what you have. Write it down somewhere so you will remember it.

I know I ran lash loops on my engine a few years ago. I tightened the intake .010 and ran it, it liked it. I then did the exhaust the same. Between the two I gained .1 and almost 2 mph. Tells me the combo wants more cam. Engine builder said to put them back to where they were, especially the exhaust, not worth the risk of things going crash........... But he said if I want to change the cam next time I freshen it he will see what we can fit.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Steel or chromoly pushrods? And why
Click to expand...
Chromoly is lighter and strong but on that side of the rocker I don't think it matters iirc. You want a one piece quality pushrod. Diameter and wall thickness gives them strength. You're not seeing big spring pressures or rpm and not using a power adder so you'd probably be ok with 5/16" even, but I'd go with 3/8" at least if you have the room. I like Smith Bros. They make restrictor push rods also.
 
IADR said:
I had one Crane come in the package in... one piece. Did you know locks are steel machined into a cone, and only then cut from that into two pces? Yep.
Click to expand...
I did not know that. It does make sense since they never go on a valve and have both ends ever touch. Wonder what they cut them with. Must tumble them to deburr them, I have never seen any extra metal on them. Curious as to how they are made. I have square locks on the wives engine, bead locks on mine. For some reason I trust the square locks more, but they told me the bead locks are the way to go.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top