427 SBF

Ok, I've confirmed the rollmaster shims are for the camshaft sprocket, not the crankshaft sprocket. They are used to adjust endplay which is NOT my issue.

The crank sprocket sits too far in towards the block, and would need to be shimmed away from the block .020"
 
The CS10030 is supposed to come with a thicker crank sprocket for use with Dart blocks. Something seems off here. Maybe measure the thickness of the sprocket and email Romac?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Shims didn't work. The crank is beveled. If I buy bigger shim it won't exactly be centered back there. No clue if the matters
Click to expand...

Probably not as long as the shim fits flat.
Beveled shims might be available, look around.

Pretty much like the washers for ARP bolts, just thinner and bigger!

EDIT: .020 is fairly thin, I doubt it will matter as long as the ID of the shim clears the bevel.
 
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Really dumb question here, but are you mocking up rotating assembly? Or is lower end built?
Crank sprocket bottoms on crank and not block, is crank end play (thrust) correct?
Don't follow your reference of measure.
 
For some reason some posts didn't show.
Got em now.
Chamfer is issue?
Set balancer up and compress that shit.
Let's go!
 
I don't know what to answer here or who. I've called everyone and their mother, low and behold they've never heard of this.

The sprocket is thicker. Much thicker than the cs10025 sprocket was. Much thicker than the cloyes I have.

Mcmaster doesn't have 1.625" ID x .020 shim which is my wild ass guess on what ID to get.

Shortblock is assembled. Crank thrust is fine.
 
Badd_Dadd said:
Really dumb question here, but are you mocking up rotating assembly? Or is lower end built?
Crank sprocket bottoms on crank and not block, is crank end play (thrust) correct?
Don't follow your reference of measure.
Click to expand...
I think the confusion on block talk comes from the statements made by romac referring to pre and post efi blocks.
There is a post we saw where a guy used pinion bearing shims. They have an I.D. that should clear the beveled portion.
 
IMG-9036.jpg
 
I was watching Roadkill Garage and they were doing a Windsor and said something about the need to check the crankshaft sprocket and shim it correctly. Sounds like fun and something Ford people learn about. We don't have this issue with CBS & BBC stuff. I never dealt with tearing apart late model stuff (LS style).
 
On the way to buy sk4 pinion shims. Motive also has part number 1103 which would likely be a better fit but none in stock nearby
 
Sk4 shim kit has 5 shims:

.017
.012
.009
.008
.007

1.66ID
2.25OD

That'll do the trick
 
Badd_Dadd said:
If I'd is an issue and concentric slip of shim is in question, can you use rtv or weather strip glue to hold shim in position?
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I would guess that the bevel od on the crank is roughly 1.60 or so. I think I have some permatex hi tack that will do the job
 
A dab of grease would hold it, for mock up. Torque will hold it after. Loctite 404 instant adhesive will glue it in place if you want.
 
That's a good idea, maybe glue them onto the gear with the glue contacting the OD of the shims and the gear surface, wiping it level so it doesn't hinder levelness.
 
Do NOT get 404 on yer fingers, actually I'm not sure fox should be using any instant adhesive 😆🤣😭😇.

Sorry but I couldn't resist.
A guy I used to work with fixed his glasses with it, then put them on and glued them to his head 🤦‍♂️
 
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