427 SBF

Up grade to a thrust roller and complete hardware.
Roller lifters do not counter oil pump thrust like flat tappet.
So you will need roller thrust plate.
 
Example a rollmaster NA-CS10030
And appropriate ARP hardware.
And install proper pump eccentric, 1 or 2 piece, regardless if you use mechanical pump or not.
 
Screenshot_20250608-123757_Brave.jpg
 
@Badd_Dadd you lost me. I'll have to come back and read this stuff again later when my brain isn't overloaded. I have an eccentric.

Why would the builder not use a thrust roller plate to begin with? And is it "needed" or a "benefit"
 
I forgot that there are keys for the crank pulley that have an offset in them for fine adjustments.

Anyway stick it in there and degree it and see what you have.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
@Badd_Dadd you lost me. I'll have to come back and read this stuff again later when my brain isn't overloaded. I have an eccentric.

Why would the builder not use a thrust roller plate to begin with? And is it "needed" or a "benefit"
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Your builder?
Can't read his mind.
Anything that reduces friction and heat, and stress is a benefit.
Increases engine life also.
Things change between a flat tappet and a roller tappet. Also standard oil pump to high volume. pressure oil pump.
 
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89 Fox 427 said:
@Badd_Dadd you lost me. I'll have to come back and read this stuff again later when my brain isn't overloaded. I have an eccentric.

Why would the builder not use a thrust roller plate to begin with? And is it "needed" or a "benefit"
Click to expand...
I'm using a timing chain with the torington bearing on my new build. That being said my old one wasn't and went for 15 years on the street with no sign of issues. And that was a solid roller with 600 lb springs and a hi volume pump
 
I can already see some bullshit. This needs to be cleaned up or in sure it'll end up going through the engine at some point

 
89 Fox 427 said:
I can already see some bullshit. This needs to be cleaned up or in sure it'll end up going through the engine at some point

Click to expand...
Deburring and radiusing also helps prevent cracks. A no bypass filter will help with the crap, seeing as you're not likely tearing this down to deburr and then clean again.
 
I use grease on the cutting tool to catch particles and now I also stick one of the high-power bar magnets on a tool if I'm trying to catch ferrous chips and I'm using a hand tool or a slow-moving power tool.
 
Steve439 said:
I use grease on the cutting tool to catch particles and now I also stick one of the high-power bar magnets on a tool if I'm trying to catch ferrous chips and I'm using a hand tool or a slow-moving power tool.
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I've done that with a drill on low speed. Not sure some wouldn't escape on a hi speed die grinder. Turn the regulator down I guess.
Slow like you said. But still gonna be a bunch of machined edges internally. Jomar to the rescue, lol.
 
BOSS#1540 said:
I've done that with a drill on low speed. Not sure some wouldn't escape on a hi speed die grinder. Turn the regulator down I guess.
Slow like you said. But still gonna be a bunch of machined edges internally. Jomar to the rescue, lol.
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I figure a small file pushing outward, I like magnet idea. I also have a 1" vacuum extension I might be able to get in there
 
Are there files with reverse cutting teeth?
I can see that being pretty handy in situations like this.
 
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