427 SBF

Calm your tits. The car will be fine. Get it together and have fun.

15 years ago.
10:1 393
Edelbrock Vic jr heads (out of the box)

 
Local guy, ex promod racer has a well known shop in the area. He was too far behind and too expensive to have him build anything for me.

However.. He can put this on the dyno in 3 weeks, get the rings seated, carb dialed in, and make a couple pulls for $800.

I'm thinking that's worth it.
 
What hp do you think you were making?
If memory serves me, I had it on the dyno when it was fuel injected and had a loose 8” converter it made like 386HP.

I eventually put a carb and an out of the box Super Victor on it and it ran 6.54 @ 103.
 
Local guy, ex promod racer has a well known shop in the area. He was too far behind and too expensive to have him build anything for me.

However.. He can put this on the dyno in 3 weeks, get the rings seated, carb dialed in, and make a couple pulls for $800.

I'm thinking that's worth it.
It is if he can do that. It would be nice to have a proven carb right off the start for ring seal, then dial yours in.
The other bonus is any leaks or stupid shit will be found before it's in the car. I used to pay $500 for 3 pulls iirc, but that was 20 years ago and a friend. I did a lot more than 3 pulls, lol
 
I've relaxed since yesterday. I realize this car is going to be stupid on the street. The average hp/tq will be more than I'll know what to do with.

But.. let's talk numbers anyway! Since I couldn't sleep last night I began searching trying to find 600hp n/a 427w combos.

I found zero of them with less than .675 lift. All had much better heads than what I bought. Typically more compression.

Holdener ran a few on his channel. The tfs high ports 225cc, .688 lift with 249/253 108lsa and ported super vic. Made 594hp/559lb ft

His 12.2:1 with .739 284/282 108lsa afr225 out of the box, and ported super vic. Made 651hp/564lb ft
 
Yes you can.


Totally stock factory 351w shortblock on 20psi. 4300lbs.


I SAID YOU CAN'T, BRIAN.

but seriously, when I was purchasing I had to choose between built for boost or not. I have since forgotten the reason or difference. Rings maybe? Double keyed crank? Magic glitter?
 
Possibly compression.
I'll guess it's not easy to run 10:1 or whatever without pretty modern engine management.
 
What happened to talking about cams?

What are your concerns with the 243/255 cam?
 
What happened to talking about cams?

What are your concerns with the 243/255 cam?

I had several feelers out for cam specs. That one is fairly dissimilar from the others. Low 230s/low 240s was common with 110 or less lsa. Generally closer to .600 lift

Let's remember, I still don't know the difference, just thought it being different from the rest there would be an explanation that would make me go "ah I get it sort of!"
 
I had several feelers out for cam specs. That one is fairly dissimilar from the others. Low 230s/low 240s was common with 110 or less lsa. Generally closer to .600 lift

Let's remember, I still don't know the difference, just thought it being different from the rest there would be an explanation that would make me go "ah I get it sort of!"

In general, duration moves the torque curve around, and lift determines the amount of torque (and HP) through that range.
As you posted in the dyno tests above, it takes some lift to make a lot of torque/HP.
And, since HP is RPM dependent, you need some duration to rev higher too.

Those other cams are nice street cams, but you want big HP so the bigger duration and lift cam is how to get there.

My parts/machining guy kept wanting to move me up in everything.
I got a cam from him with about 242/248 duration and .635 lift, but then thought more about it and bought a smaller one from Mark O'.
The cam I'm going to use in my "hot rod" motor has about 236/247 duration and .600 lift.
That should be real easy on valve springs and a nice street only cam.
 
Another thing about cams...

The better the head, the "bigger" a cam acts.
That's probably why those evil LS motors run so well with little wussy cams. :p
 
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