427 SBF

Is this the gold generator?
Who why was pickup tube torched on?
Who did machine work for girdle fit up?

That photo was the gold generator tear down.

First builder way back when must have torched it to fit the girdle

On that block in photo there was no machine work done. First builder and first block had the girdle. I delivered a different block and first girdle to 2nd builder and explained that to him. He assembled with girdle.

3rd builder (after disassembling the gold generator) checked the line hone with girdle because we suspected the girdle caused some core shift, but everything looked perfect according to him.
 
That photo was the gold generator tear down.

First builder way back when must have torched it to fit the girdle

On that block in photo there was no machine work done. First builder and first block had the girdle. I delivered a different block and first girdle to 2nd builder and explained that to him. He assembled with girdle.

3rd builder (after disassembling the gold generator) checked the line hone with girdle because we suspected the girdle caused some core shift, but everything looked perfect according to him.
MY bet is the girdle not fit up correctly killed the bearings.
It wouldn't show checking line bore/hone after the fact.
If oil tube wasn't cleaned??
Could have been tweaked without heat?
 
I just remembered about anti-seize, I hope it's not too late.

This is what I decided after researching it a while back, I suggest researching yourself...

Nickel anti-seize on stainless fasteners.
Nickel anti-seize on very high-heat applications like headers.
Whatever anti-seize you like on fasteners that go into aluminum (and not into coolant, like your rocker arm studs).

If you're keeping in touch with Mitch he would be the ideal guy to ask about it. :cool:
 
I just remembered about anti-seize, I hope it's not too late.

This is what I decided after researching it a while back, I suggest researching yourself...

Nickel anti-seize on stainless fasteners.
Nickel anti-seize on very high-heat applications like headers.
Whatever anti-seize you like on fasteners that go into aluminum (and not into coolant, like your rocker arm studs).

If you're keeping in touch with Mitch he would be the ideal guy to ask about it. :cool:

Lots of fasteners of course leaves me with lots of questions. Which ones use anti seize, which ones loctite, which ones just oil, which ones use sealant...

Rocker studs seem to be the only ones that need sealant, which I have liquid ptfe type brush on stuff..

I've got my handy Hanes manual to follow, whenever the cam arrives I'll start the building process and probably post video updates daily so if someone catches a mistake it can save my ass
 
I'd guess all the cylinder head bolt holes are blind on that block, but it couldn't hurt to take a look...

I just found this, looks informative.
I'm going to read it later after I get some work done:

 
I find that most stainless steel bolts for intakes never seem to stay tight. I prefer good old Moroso stuff, had never given me a problem. With SBC and BBC, we can not use studs for our intakes. Well, we could, but it would make no sense. I do like how the Ford stuff bolts straight-down, makes that simple.
Cleveland is not straight down
 
Clevelands are the ones that flow 400cfm. You'd recognize them because your chevies look just like them now 😆
My old mentor had a 351 Cleveland in his 66 or 67 fairlane with a C6. He was an older fellow. He attended a dyno day with a mustang club once and his car made 240hp with them 400cfm heads. 😝
 
Must have copied Chevy
Whatever you say.

You don't need studs for the oil pan or intake. Studs are stronger and create less stress on the block, especially nice on something getting tore down often. Bonus is they guide shit, downfall is they make it hard to get shit off if you don't have room. Usually used for the mains and heads. They should be installed finger tight and torque the nut only.

If your block was line honed with bolts and you change to studs it should be done again. Always line hone with the fasteners, lube and tq specs you plan on using. Same with head studs and cylinder boring/honing with a torque plate
 
My old mentor had a 351 Cleveland in his 66 or 67 fairlane with a C6. He was an older fellow. He attended a dyno day with a mustang club once and his car made 240hp with them 400cfm heads. 😝
I didn't realize you were a closet LS gal.

Was that with the factory 426 lift cam 😆

I made 450hp without trying with no porting on factory heads and intake with just a 590 lift cam.

If any of you chevy lovers (patriot and green fox as well) want to have a n/a dyno comp with factory 70's heads and intake and 400 cubes feel free to step up 😆🤣😭🫵🤫
 
I know of a 2 bolt main 351c factory block making 774hp with factory heads and intake and single carb. And only 700ish lift and 13.1:1 😏
 
I didn't realize you were a closet LS gal.

Was that with the factory 426 lift cam 😆

I made 450hp without trying with no porting on factory heads and intake with just a 590 lift cam.

If any of you chevy lovers (patriot and green fox as well) want to have a n/a dyno comp with factory 70's heads and intake and 400 cubes feel free to step up 😆🤣😭🫵🤫
Damn struck a nerve 😂. You’re like but in a Cleveland. 😂

I was just busting your chops. I love the old man, may he RIP. He came from the time when you tried to make power without spending money. The man could fix anything, but he did not like spending money.
 
Damn struck a nerve 😂. You’re like but in a Cleveland. 😂

I was just busting your chops. I love the old man, may he RIP. He came from the time when you tried to make power without spending money. The man could fix anything, but he did not like spending money.
You can't just decide you've struck a nerve 🤷‍♂️

Why do you think I've ran Clevelands my whole life
 
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