427 SBF

89 Fox 427 said:
Do oil pan bolts or intake bolts need to be grade 8? Id rather use socket cap bolts than hex bolts for oil pan, and my old intake bolts don't appear to be grade 8
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Socket hardware is grade 8 unless you find some cheapass imported dollar store hardware. Grade 5 will work if that's what you have.
 
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89 Fox 427 said:
Do oil pan bolts or intake bolts need to be grade 8? Id rather use socket cap bolts than hex bolts for oil pan, and my old intake bolts don't appear to be grade 8
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I wouldn't use grade 8 intake bolts.
Bolts are held in place by stretch and you have to torque grade 8 bolts more to stretch them appropriately.
If you only torque a grade 8 bolt to a lower bolt's torque requirement you won't stretch it enough.
If you torque it to grade 8 requirements you might pull the threads out of the head.
 
Stainless stuff (unless made by somebody like ARP) is generally grade 2 or thereabouts.

Here's some socket head stuff that should work:

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
They hand blend the bowls. Not the greatest looking thing I've seen

 
Briansshop said:
I prefer ARP studs for the intake. Helps with holding gaskets and aligning the intake on install.
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I bought 4inch threaded rod I was going to thread into the 4 corners and slide the intake down over those.. is that a stupid way to do it? I'm too broke for all these arp fasteners, oil pan studs are $95
 
Thinking ahead a bit. My old pickup tube mounted to the main bolt and it had a girdle.

I don't know if the new block has the long stud so I can mount it with a nut or not, but question..

If no stud, can I simply remove the one main bolt to install the pickup tube or do I need to take them all out and retorque in sequence

I would also make the assumption that without the girdle my pickup tube mounting bracket won't be on the right place, would either have to bend the pickup down or add a spacer if the stud is long enough.

Here's what it used to look like

 
89 Fox 427 said:
I bought 4inch threaded rod I was going to thread into the 4 corners and slide the intake down over those.. is that a stupid way to do it? I'm too broke for all these arp fasteners, oil pan studs are $95
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If you look at a bolt/stud under magnification they narrow down at the end for ease of threading the nut on or not messing up the threads they're screwed into.
I'll make studs and shorten bolts, but I narrow the ends appropriately with a grinder.
 
Steve439 said:
If you look at a bolt/stud under magnification they narrow down at the end for ease of threading the nut on or not messing up the threads they're screwed into.
I'll make studs and shorten bolts, but I narrow the ends appropriately with a grinder.
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Oh I didn't mean the studs were permanent, just guides for setting the intake down. I don't like the look of studs, although they're nice for a place to bolt down wire clamps sometimes
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Thinking ahead a bit. My old pickup tube mounted to the main bolt and it had a girdle.

I don't know if the new block has the long stud so I can mount it with a nut or not, but question..

If no stud, can I simply remove the one main bolt to install the pickup tube or do I need to take them all out and retorque in sequence

I would also make the assumption that without the girdle my pickup tube mounting bracket won't be on the right place, would either have to bend the pickup down or add a spacer if the stud is long enough.

Here's what it used to look like

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Is this the gold generator?
Who why was pickup tube torched on?
Who did machine work for girdle fit up?
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I would expect my really amazing cam guy to be more in the .629/.636 with 236/242 ish and maybe 108-110 for this boring little street car. My heads flow well but not amazing (promaxx 210cc/56cc) and i figure I'll never know the true hp number because I won't wind it up enough to know (and the dual plane will castrate the top end which I'm ok with). At least I can say it's got more in it.

I just made those cam numbers up to try and be part of the conversation, please refrain from shitting on me
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Ok, I lied. Those are NOT the specs on her cam. They are the specs on the first cam I had in my 414, I hated that cam!

Her cam is much smaller..........
248/248 @ .050
.616/.616 lift
110* LSA

Didn't want you to think I had something magic in her engine.
That cam I first listed was no good for me for foot braking. I could not get the thing to run steady between 2500 and 3000 at the tree. Trans braking was fine. RPM below 2500 or above 3500 on the foot brake was fine. But where I needed it to hit the tree, it sucked! Made good power to 8400 though. ;)
 
I find that most stainless steel bolts for intakes never seem to stay tight. I prefer good old Moroso stuff, had never given me a problem. With SBC and BBC, we can not use studs for our intakes. Well, we could, but it would make no sense. I do like how the Ford stuff bolts straight-down, makes that simple.
 
I find that most stainless steel bolts for intakes never seem to stay tight. I prefer good old Moroso stuff, had never given me a problem. With SBC and BBC, we can not use studs for our intakes. Well, we could, but it would make no sense. I do like how the Ford stuff bolts straight-down, makes that simple.
CompNut said:
If this goes south is an LS next? :ROFLMAO:
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He doesn't want to go fast, let him have his fun. ;)
 
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