427 SBF

Why is maff to hard for you?

I'm confused. There's no maff if there's no number to start with. My post was in reference to lift. I don't know cam specs.

Spring rate = (410-145)/Lift, right?

So until Mark gives us all some numbers we can play guessing games or i can make an excel file to help us solve it later
 
385lb @ .600
391lb @ .615
397lb @ .630
403lb @ .645

All of which are higher than what the morels are rated for

I guess 🤷‍♂️
 
@Mark O'Neal Are you going with a Hydraulic roller or solid?

I really don't give a hoot either way. Whatever is more reliable. If I gotta set lash occasionally so be it. Just street car stuff.

When this is all done maybe I can buy a home and see if that's a better investment
 
If you end up with hyd, the beehive springs are awfully attractive (conical too).

The damper between dual springs is what chews up a titanium retainer so you could get the titanium and not worry.
You can cut your effective valve weight way down (I don't remember numbers).
 
If you end up with hyd, the beehive springs are awfully attractive (conical too).

The damper between dual springs is what chews up a titanium retainer so you could get the titanium and not worry.
You can cut your effective valve weight way down (I don't remember numbers).
Steve at promaxx (fuckin Steve's everywhere) said he's measured and weighed them and doesn't see enough difference in his opinion. Another topic that half say they won't use them the other half say never use steel again
 
Ok you fkrs I'm a throw ??? something out there n see if it sticks.
Why did rev kits fade off into the sunset and never come back, I think that old tech is, could be, viable today.
 
If you can run beehives and tool steel retainers you will be golden! That stuff works great, but not sure if you can get the correct spring pressure for a solid roller.

Not sure why rev kits faded away. I thought they were a good idea. They took care of the lifters weight and I thought it let you run a lighter valve spring. But is added stuff, more moving parts to break...........

For a street toy going less than 7k or so, a nice hydraulic roller will be just fine.

I LOVE shaft rockers, but I know they have gone up in price a LOT since I did mine. Damn, I paid $1250 for mine less than 10 years ago, same shyt today is almost $2500.
 
Steve at promaxx (fuckin Steve's everywhere) said he's measured and weighed them and doesn't see enough difference in his opinion. Another topic that half say they won't use them the other half say never use steel again

If he has weighed the entire setup without giving thought to what weight moves and what weight doesn't, I would be suspicious of him.

The point to weight reduction on the top half of the spring is that it moves more.

Think of the components:

1) The full weight of the valve moves along with the rocker
2) The full weight of the retainer and keepers move along with the rocker
3) The upper few spring coils move pretty much with the rocker.
4) The middle of the spring moves at some ratio
5) The bottom few coils hardly move at all.

Realistically, the best bang for the buck is a tool steel or titanium retainer.
To spend a fair amount more, get a beehive or conical. This pays off because those upper few springs are working all the time and the upper coils on the beehive/conical springs have a smaller radius and weigh less.
Now comes the bonus! Because the upper coil on the springs is so much smaller, the retainer is much smaller and there's even more weigh savings exactly where it matters.
 
If you end up with hyd, the beehive springs are awfully attractive (conical too).

The damper between dual springs is what chews up a titanium retainer so you could get the titanium and not worry.
You can cut your effective valve weight way down (I don't remember numbers).

He's not making enough rpm to notice.
 
In for today's changes/updates. :pop::D
I've got one!

Intake ports are 1.07 x 1.88
Head ports are 1.3 x 2.115

I said i wasnt going to port the intake but.... Should I round the exit of the intake runner so that it's not a drastic change in port size when it enters the head? I'd be removing under 1/8 inch on all sides.

Don't you dare say buy an intake, because I don't have the hood clearance and I can't move the engine down, nor can i afford a 4in cowl hood
 
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I've got one!

Intake ports are 1.07 x 1.88
Head ports are 1.3 x 2.115

I said i wasnt going to port the intake but.... Should I round the exit of the intake runner so that it's not a drastic change in port size when it enters the head? I'd be removing under 1/8 inch on all sides.

Don't you dare say buy an intake, because I don't have the hood clearance and I can't move the engine down, nor can i afford a 4in cowl hood
You don't need no stinkin hood.
 
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