427 SBF

I don't know what power level you're looking for, but I'm pretty sure that Comp 35-426-8 cam is the same one I used in a 393W, at 10.5:1, with Dart Pro1 195cc heads which was a nice driving deal. I sold that motor to a friend who says it made something like 380-390 to the tire on a pump gas tune.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Someone will enjoy these heads on their 302 or mild street 351w. I don't see how putting more money into a head that 99% say is too small is beneficial

What are your thoughts on solid roller vs Hydraulic roller? And if you were shooting for 650hp street driven manual trans what heads, cam, intake, carb would you put on it?




I never had a number in mind. All I wanted was a stump pulling street motor with excellent driveability and longevity with a torque curve that resembles my ex Margaret. Huge bottom end and nothing up top.

If I'm buying heads, cam, intake, carb, 650/700 fwhp will be the limit this car can handle at the moment
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Because of the headers, probably the 220s. If you don't mind occasional maintenance, I'd probably go with solids. Hydraulics are the Roombas of your engine, they vacuum up every piece of trash they can find.

Super Victor, carb somewhere at at above 850cfm.
 
Mark O'Neal said:
Because of the headers, probably the 220s. If you don't mind occasional maintenance, I'd probably go with solids. Hydraulics are the Roombas of your engine, they vacuum up every piece of trash they can find.

Super Victor, carb somewhere at at above 850cfm.
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Any lift numbers in mind?
 
So then the question is, what is more reasonable? Should I send my heads off and have them made more goodly, keep the cam, and have some fun

Or buy new heads, new solid roller cam, exchange for different lifters, and have some fun.
 
The AFR 205 exhaust ports are only raised .125 and they don't flow much less than the 220s.
 
It just occurred to me - is it internally balanced, and if so, do you have a neutral flywheel and damper?
 
The difference in power is going to be the cam. Any one of the 3 will hit your number. Everything else is great for your parameters, more than your parameters, even.

So, for you ... it's all in the camshaft. Well that ... and how much money you want to throw at this thing.

Were it me, with your goals. Probably the ProMAXX heads, and a solid roller cam ... 850 absolute minimum carb ... since you want it to sound like a AA/FC car at idle. The heads are reasonable , and the cam and lifters, if you get bushed lifters will be in the 1,700 range (DLC steel bushed).

You can do bronzed or rollers for substantially less.
 
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I swear just when I think I can afford this hobby I get punched in the head with prices. Didn't think I'd need another 6k to build this thing. I need to quit dreaming
 
89 Fox 427 said:
I swear just when I think I can afford this hobby I get punched in the head with prices. Didn't think I'd need another 6k to build this thing. I need to quit dreaming
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Post up some of your parts and try to recoup some cash to put towards the new stuff.
 
I have probably said this somewhere else, also, but my vote is to assemble the parts and enjoy the car. (y) If it just doesn't seem to make enough power (I have a hard time imagining that in a primarily street driven car), you can spend more money later. Take care. Tom Worthington
 
Tom396 said:
I have probably said this somewhere else, also, but my vote is to assemble the parts and enjoy the car. (y) If it just doesn't seem to make enough power (I have a hard time imagining that in a primarily street driven car), you can spend more money later. Take care. Tom Worthington
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Wish I could. Heads need to be worked over, not compatible with my cam. Upon inspection, my old cam bearings from the glitter engine are showing signs of heat after 10 miles of use and I don't know if it's a cam issue, so I might as well get a new cam to be sure.
 
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