427 SBF

Crank gear is .020 pushed further in. This is absolutely tiring
 
Let's discuss if the crank is ground wrong, the face where the retainer bolts to is milled incorrect, or no timing sets work on a small block ford.

In my defense, I did not check sprocket alignment with the original timing set
 
Set a dial indicator on everything you can and check runout.
 
Well the original timing set lines up perfect, but no endplay. Still.

0 for 3

Going to try and find a shim if that's an acceptable method
 
It looks like Rollmaster sell shims.
I'd call them up and ask them about it.
Oh shit, no calls, email them...

One thing you might be able to do now is set a precision straightedge across the gears without the chain and see what's going on there.
I don't know if that will work on an SBF, but it's worth taking a look to see.
 
Steve439 said:
It looks like Rollmaster sell shims.
I'd call them up and ask them about it.
Oh shit, no calls, email them...

One thing you might be able to do now is set a precision straightedge across the gears without the chain and see what's going on there.
I don't know if that will work on an SBF, but it's worth taking a look to see.
Click to expand...
That's how I came up with the need for .020 shim.

McMaster Carr sells 1.375 x 1.875 x .020 shims. Might be an impossible fit on the snout but we'll see
 
So you are saying the crank sprocket is too far back compared to the cam sprocket? And you cam sprocket has no end play? You better start up there first then go down to the crank.

I still have to decide what piston I am using in the wifey's engine. I ordered valves from REV on a Tuesday, had them in my hand on Friday. That is pretty damn impressive in this day and time. Some of the pistons I am looking at are three weeks out, I know how that goes...... Some others are stock. Gotta see my buddy and chose one this week.
 
Mike Beck said:
So you are saying the crank sprocket is too far back compared to the cam sprocket? And you cam sprocket has no end play? You better start up there first then go down to the crank.

I still have to decide what piston I am using in the wifey's engine. I ordered valves from REV on a Tuesday, had them in my hand on Friday. That is pretty damn impressive in this day and time. Some of the pistons I am looking at are three weeks out, I know how that goes...... Some others are stock. Gotta see my buddy and chose one this week.
Click to expand...

It's been 6 weeks and I still don't have a camshaft installed. Took me 3 hours to sort out some magical voodoo trying to tighten 2 bolts.

The cam sprocket is fine now. The crank sprocket needs a spacer
 
So the cam endplay is OK now?
I fucked up when I read post 1015 and was still thinking about cam problems.
This sounds like the deal where they sell different timing sets based on blocks or whatever.
I think you really need to talk to somebody about this.
I've had great luck with Cloyes (never dealt with their support), but maybe you should call them if you can.
 
Steve439 said:
So the cam endplay is OK now?
I fucked up when I read post 1015 and was still thinking about cam problems.
This sounds like the deal where they sell different timing sets based on blocks or whatever.
I think you really need to talk to somebody about this.
I've had great luck with Cloyes (never dealt with their support), but maybe you should call them if you can.
Click to expand...
Cam endplay is good now. On the upper end but still fine.

I bought this timing set because they specify it is for aftermarket and dart blocks. I don't suspect that's the issue. Not to mention @Patriot Racer used the same one on his dart block without issue
 
So if you shim the crank gear out .020 everything will be good?

I wouldn't be overjoyed with that but I could live with it.
You might run into alignment issues with the front accessories, who knows!
 
IMG-9020.jpg

IMG-9021.jpg
 
Looks to be like I should have bought the "red" rollmaster instead of "gold"

The gold series doesn't come with shims.

Holy shit @Steve439 you're right. All that shit is going to change. Those were all custom bushings and spacers for my alternator and timing pointer shit.

I don't even know if the timing cover will clear this cluster fuck.
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Looks to be like I should have bought the "red" rollmaster instead of "gold"

The gold series doesn't come with shims.

Holy shit @Steve439 you're right. All that shit is going to change. Those were all custom bushings and spacers for my alternator and timing pointer shit.

I don't even know if the timing cover will clear this cluster fuck.
Click to expand...
That’s just normal shit to have to mess with. McMaster is your friend when it comes to the aluminum spacers. I think what I sent you is a 10 rib belt set up from CVF Racing.

Did you find and order a shim?
 
Patriot Racer said:
That’s just normal shit to have to mess with. McMaster is your friend when it comes to the aluminum spacers. I think what I sent you is a 10 rib belt set up from CVF Racing.

Did you find and order a shim?
Click to expand...

Yes I ordered 35 shims because that's how McMaster Carr works.

35mm ID 0.5mm thickness and 1.375ID .02 thickness.

Hoping there's at least one of those that are slightly oversized or else I'm going to spend 3-5 hours putting one shim on, which is guaranteed to be the case.

Or maybe the square stock will be welded in the crank and I won't be able to remove it
 
89 Fox 427 said:
Yes I ordered 35 shims because that's how McMaster Carr works.

35mm ID 0.5mm thickness and 1.375ID .02 thickness.

Hoping there's at least one of those that are slightly oversized or else I'm going to spend 3-5 hours putting one shim on, which is guaranteed to be the case.

Or maybe the square stock will be welded in the crank and I won't be able to remove it
Click to expand...
You could carefully notch it with a cut off wheel.
 
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